RV batteries
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Re:RV batteries
KTM, Gary, can I ask what the outputs of your solar panels are? At what point do you need to add a solar controler? I have been told if you have more than one battery and a lower output panel you don't need a controller.
Proprietor of Fiver's Inn and Hospitality Center
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Sarasota, Florida
Re:RV batteries
KTM,<br>You are right about nice fresh batteries. I am milking mine right now before replacing. The "smart" charger has helped, but I can drop them pretty quick with that inverter. Sure nice to be able to sit dry and not run anything. <br><br>Raften, I use a 15w solar charge unit to keep the batteries up when not using the coach. It has no controller. I am holding three batteries, so there is not a whole bunch left over. I turn the main disconnect off, then activate the solar switch. It will hold them very nicely, especially when they are fresh and I see no boiling off.
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Re:RV batteries
[quote author=RAFTEN link=board=11;threadid=14908;start=#142633 date=1054067105]
KTM, Gary, can I ask what the outputs of your solar panels are? At what point do you need to add a solar controler? I have been told if you have more than one battery and a lower output panel you don't need a controller.
[/quote]
I run a 2 amp single panel - back when using 2-6 volt golf car batteries in series, I used an 8 amp solid state controller with the solar panel, but it was never satisfactory, started cutting back charge at 13.8 or so, so never really put a full charge in the batteries - they need to see about 14.5 or so to bring them fully up according to a hydrometer.
When I went to the 14 volt setup, I removed the controller and substituted just a plain single 10 amp Radio Shack blocking diode between the panel and the batteries for isolation - the panel puts out about 18 volts open circuit, which is perfect for my 14 volt system.
My Magnatek converter/charger puts out about 14.5 volts when we're on shore power, which seems sufficient for nominal operation when traveling, and I let the solar top them off properly when back home, or when out boondocking.
KTM, Gary, can I ask what the outputs of your solar panels are? At what point do you need to add a solar controler? I have been told if you have more than one battery and a lower output panel you don't need a controller.
[/quote]
I run a 2 amp single panel - back when using 2-6 volt golf car batteries in series, I used an 8 amp solid state controller with the solar panel, but it was never satisfactory, started cutting back charge at 13.8 or so, so never really put a full charge in the batteries - they need to see about 14.5 or so to bring them fully up according to a hydrometer.
When I went to the 14 volt setup, I removed the controller and substituted just a plain single 10 amp Radio Shack blocking diode between the panel and the batteries for isolation - the panel puts out about 18 volts open circuit, which is perfect for my 14 volt system.
My Magnatek converter/charger puts out about 14.5 volts when we're on shore power, which seems sufficient for nominal operation when traveling, and I let the solar top them off properly when back home, or when out boondocking.
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From: Colton, OR
Re:RV batteries
Here is a link to what I have. I do have the controller as well. It cycles off @ 14.2 volts, then back on at 13.0 volts. With the new batteries I did see it turn off the solar panel in the late afternoon, which leads me to believe it is possible to overcharge my two batteries with out it. I am pretty conservitive with battery power though - so if you use a lot of power (or have three batteries like the Fiver) you probably could get away with out a controller.<br><br>http://www.icpglobal.com/html/pro15w.asp<br><br>
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Re:RV batteries
I have noticed that Johnson Controls is the manufacturer of Deep Cycle Batteries of several major brand names as well as store brands. Some Store Brands are also manufactured by Johnson, ie. Wal-Mart, Costco. MCA for a Group 27 was rated 715 amps in one chain, 750 amps in another. Posted prices were almost the same, however one store required a trade-in or $6 core deposit. Also noticed Warranty period in the past year for many deep cycles has dropped from 36 months to 30 months. Guess too many are being stored for long periods of time without charge maintenance. We all lose when the average owner doesn't take care of their property while under warranty.<br> :'(
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