Is it a sway related thing? All of the equipment is rated to tow the weight.

 

I don't have a pic with my either of my flatbed gooseneck trailers hooked on yet. I haven't used them yet. But here is a pic of my truck. I'll definetly take one when I pull either one of them.

 

I went to my photo gallery and clicked the picture I wanted to use and when it came up there was a link below it. I copied and pasted the link in this thread and the pic pops up.

 

GotMeat - I'm thinking it's a Jack Knife related thing...

 

These are from Monday. Since I live 20 miles from Stillwater, when I come to town, I make it worth the trip. I picked up thirty 24 foot 2x6's and my smoker to take back home that night.

 

My new (to me) Cedar Creek..

 

Here's our rig at the Arctic Circle, on the Dempster Hwy in the Yukon.

Regards, DBF

 

10-4. I can't see much of a difference with a Gooseneck or 5er as far as safety is concerned. There just isn't that much tongue weight(for these trucks)on the truck at about 600-900 lbs. I drive it safely and watch out for the other folks on the road. The load only weighs about 2000 lbs more than the truck. I estimate that that load was about 10,000.

It feels good. The weakest link is the ball. 2-5/16 rated at 10,000. So I am well within the ratings and nothing is overloaded. It stops very well with the trailer brakes and these nice truck brakes.

Oh well. I could certainly argue that it is safer than these guys that exceed the GCWR by several thousand lbs.

 

I wouldn't worry about the ball hitch or the bumper-pull flatbed either; I think the potential problem is the push the caboose jeep gives to the rear of the trailer during braking.

Drive that convoy across a wet parking lot at 20 miles an hour and practice a panic stop - then you'll have a better idea of what might happen.

 

Also in a lot of states you can not tow from a bumper pull like that.
If Dot says it is OK where you live then do it just be safe.
Would like to see pictures of both hitches if you would.
Make sure the tow bar is flat or lower to the rear or that jeep will jump on the trailer if you stop quick. Are you using a WD system or just ball. Need WD if over 6000 lb or so to be safe and a lot of 2" hitches are 6000lb to 7000 lb make sure yours is solid 10K or more, I can show you one that a friend used to pull his bronco the brakes stoped working and folded it down think it was 7500lb or so.
I wheel with a lot of people and most have found that lifted jeep like yours are about 4500 to 5000 or more also trailer if it is 10K should be about 1800-2500 lbs maybe more. Thinking you are more like 11000 lb or more but may be wrong. Just be safe...

Jon

 

Jory...you need to bring that smoker up my way so we can cook up some killer meat and have us a little party!!! Load you up on some Coors to take back home with ya!!!


~Nick

 

Got ya, I understand.

 

I don't have pics of the truck drawbar, but it is billet aluminum rated at 14,000. I believe the truck receiver is rated at 12,000(correct me). The ball is stainless. The size is 2-5/16 and it is rated at 10,000.

The hitch on the rear of the trailer is off of a 1/2 ton truck. It is welded all the way around to 5/16" plate which is bolted below with 4 grade 8 1/2" bolts. The bolts go through 2x2 1/4" angle which has been welded to the trailer frame crossmembers which are 3/16". It is also welded to the deck.

Lots of thought went into this. It is not bootyfab work.

 

If it is stock hitch then only 12,000 if used with a WD hitch.

I know the "billet aluminum rated at 14,000" the guy that bent his went with one just like it.

Looks like you thought it out and put time in it as with made the tow bar flat, and thats good.
In NC we cant tow two tags we need the first to be 5 wheel.. Few times I wanted and needed to but thats the law...
Let us know the weights when you get it weighed.
Jon

 

Thanks PJ. My driveway slopes down and I was up by the garage taking the pic. Clearence from the rails is about 5 inches. Haven't had any problems yet.