heres the entire unit

heres the mother board

heres the gas valve and burn tube with ignitor



hope thes pics are what you guys were looking for. got home a little sooner than expected this evening

 

the ignitor is in the flame for sure

 

Based on your information then it unfortunately will be the control board that is the most likely fault. Replace with a Dinosaur brand board which is cheaper then OEM and works well.

 

im not replacing it with anything... part of the purchase agreement was that all appliances would be 100% checked over and anything that didnt work would be fixed to complete working order. everyhting works but the water heater so i guess ill have to wait and see what camping world has to say. atleast now i have a better idea of what to tell them is worng. i really appreciate all the advice folks. Thanks a million!

 

Mine also has the ignitor that also serves as a flame sensor.

You might take that screw out on the bracket that holds the ignitor and clean the ignitor up. Also take a metal tooth type brush and clean up the burner below it.

Also, the gap between the ignitor and burner needs to be correct.

P.S. You've probably already done this, but make sure the bypass valves are set to run water through the water heater. You then have to leave a hot tap on for a while while it expels the water that was in the pipes between the water heater and faucet, then let it push out all the air as it fills the tank. These will auto-shut down if the tank isn't full...

 

+1 what Jeff said.
You do not have a thermocouple, it's a flame sensor/ignitor. Cleaning the sensor tip and burner worked for me a couple of times. Finally had to replace the sensor/ignitor.

 

My dad had the same problem. It turned out to be the hot water tank was drained for winter it had a valve to prevent water from filling the tank. The tank had a sensor in it to verify that it was fill of water. We had a good laugh on that. It worked fine with water.

 

X2.....what I finally did........worked great after the switch.

 

had mobile service come from camping world to fix it under warranty... put a brand new ignitor in it and still nothing. ordering a board now to put in it and hopefully it solves the problem. the good thing is even thought the ignitor/flame sensor wasnt the problem he still left the new one in it!

 

Check the t-stat & ECO. Green hot wire 12 volts to and 12 volts leaving the t-stat. mine was one trip in and went bad.

 

also make sure the water heater is full of water or it will not stay lit it is a safety so you don't burn up the tank

 

With either of these two parts faulted the gas valve would not open and the unit would not spark

If this were the issue the unit would stay lit longer and the igniter would have turned off once the flame was verified.

Both are common problems but they do not match the symptoms.

 

I got one just like that that is tempermental to light. Leave the gas on for a couple of hours and try it again. As another poster said, light the stove and let it burn for a little while. Once I get a steady supply of gas to mine it works. Might not be the case for you though.

 

tank is full... plenty of LP flowing through the whole system. all the hot water lines are full. voltage is correct. all stuff checked by service guy. new board goes in tomorrow. idc what the problem is. they can put a whole new heater in for all i care after all the bs ive been through with this company

 

Good advice as always from Jeff. One thing I might clarify that I had to learn the hard way. When Jeff says "push out ALL the air," you want to push the air out until it quits spitting. Actually we want a bit of air in the top of the heater tank. When the water heats up, it needs some expansion room. With the one way valves in our rigs, there is no where for that water to go and the hotter it gets the more pressure is built up in the hot water lines. Mine will start to leak on the hot line under the galley sink if I am on propane (gets hotter) if I don't have a bit of air in the top of the tank. This is the only rig I have had that did this. That air slowly gets dissolved into the water with some time. Being a man, I don't read manuals or directions. I mentioned this to an old timer while camped and he asked "when is the last time you followed the directions in your manual about replacing the air chamber in your heater?" HUH???? There is a method that is way to taxing to replace that small air chamber in your manual (at least in mine). I now make it a habit about every two weeks or so to replace that air. I blow out my hose good when hooking up - - then empty the hose completely of all water. I connect the hose to the bib and the RV. I then have wifey turn on the hot water faucet in the galley - - I then turn on the hose bib. When the air stops belching out the galley faucet, she turns it off. The desired air chamber is now replaced in the water heater. You run the risk of blowing a water pipe on your hot lines if you don't have that air chamber.

Bob