Gonna Buy an RV w/ Cummins - What Should I Know?
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In my opinion the Winnebago is the one for full timing. It has the slide where you need it most, in the living quarters. It most likely is built on a workhorse chassis and has an Allison 540 series tranny. It is not a pusher. For what you want to spend, you should expect to have some problems with whatever you buy.
good luck
Tim
good luck
Tim
My 1995 Fleetwood American Dream 39AF had the big block CUmmins 8.3 with the 6speed Allison auto/trans. Cooling was side radiatior. Had plenty of power and I was happy with the set up.
In the price range you are looking at, this set-up will be pretty common. Detroit pretty much left the rv business in the 80's except for what you found in the Prevost type conversions. The series 60 of today is an awesome engine, but not to be found in anything less than the most expensive of coaches.
I think you'd be best off to look for the 8.3 Cummins with side radiator. Just my opinion and based on my eperience with 2 pushers.
Good luck. I'm sure if you are patient, you will find a "perfect" coach. PCM
Here is an example of something to keep an eye out for:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fleet...QQcmdZViewItem
In the price range you are looking at, this set-up will be pretty common. Detroit pretty much left the rv business in the 80's except for what you found in the Prevost type conversions. The series 60 of today is an awesome engine, but not to be found in anything less than the most expensive of coaches.
I think you'd be best off to look for the 8.3 Cummins with side radiator. Just my opinion and based on my eperience with 2 pushers.
Good luck. I'm sure if you are patient, you will find a "perfect" coach. PCM
Here is an example of something to keep an eye out for:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fleet...QQcmdZViewItem
Last edited by PCM; Jan 3, 2009 at 04:59 PM. Reason: addition of post
Cummins powered RV
I agree that you should only settle for an 8.3 pusher. Pushers are also much quieter. It took me about three years to find my 94 Safari, but it was worth the wait. I like the Safari brand because it has metal sides and won't delaminate like some of the plastic ones do. Plus they are much lighter.
In my opinion the Winnebago is the one for full timing. It has the slide where you need it most, in the living quarters. It most likely is built on a workhorse chassis and has an Allison 540 series tranny. It is not a pusher. For what you want to spend, you should expect to have some problems with whatever you buy.
good luck
Tim
good luck
Tim
My plan is to sell my condo and put up a garage w/ parking pad and hookups on a piece of investment property I have in eastern Oklahoma. I was going to build a house there but I decided against that when a contractor for BP came around and wanted to drill on my property. I own 50% of the rights, so between royalties and surface damage payments that was too good of a deal to pass up. Plus, I went and had it logged and now it just doesn't look the same with an oil road cutting up the side of the mountain and alot of the trees gone. I can always find another piece of property elsewhere to build on. Still a good piece of property for timber investment, the pine will grow back and I can log again after prices shoot up due to a hurricane.
If I spend less on RV, I can put more into the garage. Can always get another RV later, as its a sure thing that by eliminating my mortgage payment, HOA fees, utility bills, parking permit and all the other expense of that place and replacing that with an RV that I own and the need to buy a couple of hundred worth of fuel a month I'll have alot more money freed up and no real obligations other than taxes. So maybe I'll go up another level in class or just take the plunge and buy a brand new one in a few years.
I agree that you should only settle for an 8.3 pusher. Pushers are also much quieter. It took me about three years to find my 94 Safari, but it was worth the wait. I like the Safari brand because it has metal sides and won't delaminate like some of the plastic ones do. Plus they are much lighter.
So the 8.3 seems to be where its at? I have heard that a few times now.
My 1995 Fleetwood American Dream 39AF had the big block CUmmins 8.3 with the 6speed Allison auto/trans. Cooling was side radiatior. Had plenty of power and I was happy with the set up.
In the price range you are looking at, this set-up will be pretty common. Detroit pretty much left the rv business in the 80's except for what you found in the Prevost type conversions. The series 60 of today is an awesome engine, but not to be found in anything less than the most expensive of coaches.
I think you'd be best off to look for the 8.3 Cummins with side radiator. Just my opinion and based on my eperience with 2 pushers.
Good luck. I'm sure if you are patient, you will find a "perfect" coach. PCM
Here is an example of something to keep an eye out for:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fleet...QQcmdZViewItem
In the price range you are looking at, this set-up will be pretty common. Detroit pretty much left the rv business in the 80's except for what you found in the Prevost type conversions. The series 60 of today is an awesome engine, but not to be found in anything less than the most expensive of coaches.
I think you'd be best off to look for the 8.3 Cummins with side radiator. Just my opinion and based on my eperience with 2 pushers.
Good luck. I'm sure if you are patient, you will find a "perfect" coach. PCM
Here is an example of something to keep an eye out for:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fleet...QQcmdZViewItem
Dads was a GMC bus (I think) from the 60s or 70s. A real old thing, but it was built like a tank and the engine was a beast and had a ton of raw power. That bus probably would have outlasted me and him both.
I'm pretty sure the fuel system changes on the 5.9 and 8.3s were also the same for the RV market as the Dodge CTDs. 94-98.4 had the Bosch P series inline fuel pump - the best, most dependable, bulletproof system ever built - no electronics. You can even baleing wire the fuel cutoff arm open and pushstart them if you have to, if everything else dies on the rig. You can do most of the mods to that pump yourself, cheaply and really improve the power band and driveability. So mid 90s is a GOOD thing! Craig
My (diesel mechanic) nephew was working primarily on DPs in those days and I'm almost sure he told me the fuel system on the 5.9 and 8.3s in RVs followed suit with the Dodge CTD 5.9 second gens. They (rv 5.9 and 8.3s) had the P pump from 94-98.4 or close to those dates. And then when the Dodge CTD 5.9 went to 24v electronic in 98.5, so did the rv 5.9 and 8.3s. Craig
My (diesel mechanic) nephew was working primarily on DPs in those days and I'm almost sure he told me the fuel system on the 5.9 and 8.3s in RVs followed suit with the Dodge CTD 5.9 second gens. They (rv 5.9 and 8.3s) had the P pump from 94-98.4 or close to those dates. And then when the Dodge CTD 5.9 went to 24v electronic in 98.5, so did the rv 5.9 and 8.3s. Craig
Is a 5.9 2nd Gen PU engine the exact same engine as a 5.9 2nd Gen RV engine? Could I transplant them if I so desired? I would think the RV engines would be bigger.
Part of the reason of getting a smaller one is to force me to shed some of my stuff. I have alot of crap, alot of its not needed. Best way to shed it is to make it so it wont fit.
The different Dodge P/U generations refer to the body style - 94-2002 was the 2nd gen but they began in 94 with a 12valve (also the first year for the inline Bosch P pump) and ended in 2002 with a 24 valve electronic system. They went to 24v/electronic in 98.5 to meet emissions. They were all 12v up thru 98.4. So 94-98.4 was the period with the all-mechanical P pump. Firetrucks and RVs got the highest hp engines for road service and I think marine got the absolute highest of all. For example, the hotrodders ran 370hp marine injectors in the 12v 5.9s. and 275hp rv injectors were the ticket in the 98.5-2002 24v 5.9s. I don't recall any factory injectors higher than 275 for the 98.5-2002 24v. The higher hp RV and FT engines had some differences internally (I think mostly different pistons/bowl design/compression ratio) to take the power but the P/U hotrodders didn't care about those minor details! Great concept... misses on demand! Craig
yes its for sale
Well, I am going to spend $40K or less and I would like to be right about $29K-$30K, so I doubt I am going to be getting anything in the last couple of years. Most of the stuff that I have been looking at on RV Trader is mid to late 1990s. I know its a buyer's market right now so just because they are asking $40K does not mean they are gonna get $40K.
I was doing some ewindow shopping on RV Trader, at this point my top three picks are here, here and here. (in order of preference).
I also see some this term "pusher" thrown out alot, what does that mean? What model year(s) will I find this 8.3 in?
Erik, does your uncle want to sell his RV real bad?
I was doing some ewindow shopping on RV Trader, at this point my top three picks are here, here and here. (in order of preference).
I also see some this term "pusher" thrown out alot, what does that mean? What model year(s) will I find this 8.3 in?
Erik, does your uncle want to sell his RV real bad?

Kieth,all r/v's have pretty much the same stuff inside them.So,on that note when I was looking,my list was,quality of construction-glued and screwed,not staple gunned.Lots of storage,in and below,preferred aluminum skin,no delamination problems,must be solid,no flexing,My list became much shorter,Older Revcon,Wanderlodge,Barth,Prevost.I finally found what I wanted a 30ft.Barth with all the goodies Spartan Chassis,Allison trans,Dana 80 rear end and Cummins Diesel.All well cared for and kept in indoor storage.I would much rather buy an older well built coach than a newer one which is problematic.Do a search on "rv.net",Barthmobile,Wanderlodge site,or even evil bay for older Prevost's.
Just my .002 worth.
Just my .002 worth.
If you're going to full time and park it I would suggest a 5th wheel or a park model bumper pull. Why pay for another engine you won't use?
A motorhome will need a dinghy (toad) to make your grocery run or drive thru at the bank.
On the B versus a C engine. Yes, both 12 valves used the Bosch P-pump. The p-pump was introduced in the early 90's so you need to look at the engine. Motorhomes did not change to the ISC at 98.5 as the pickups. They were under a different emissions standards and depends if the mfg used banking.
ISC used the Cummins Accumulator Pump System (CAPS) injection pump not the Bosch VP series. The early CAPS were pretty much labeled CrAPS by everyone that used them. Make sure any ISC has an updated CAPS.
I still have a copy of the "Weekend Wedding License". Some GFs did not think it was funny.
A motorhome will need a dinghy (toad) to make your grocery run or drive thru at the bank.
On the B versus a C engine. Yes, both 12 valves used the Bosch P-pump. The p-pump was introduced in the early 90's so you need to look at the engine. Motorhomes did not change to the ISC at 98.5 as the pickups. They were under a different emissions standards and depends if the mfg used banking.
ISC used the Cummins Accumulator Pump System (CAPS) injection pump not the Bosch VP series. The early CAPS were pretty much labeled CrAPS by everyone that used them. Make sure any ISC has an updated CAPS.
I still have a copy of the "Weekend Wedding License". Some GFs did not think it was funny.
If you're going to full time and park it I would suggest a 5th wheel or a park model bumper pull. Why pay for another engine you won't use?
A motorhome will need a dinghy (toad) to make your grocery run or drive thru at the bank.
On the B versus a C engine. Yes, both 12 valves used the Bosch P-pump. The p-pump was introduced in the early 90's so you need to look at the engine. Motorhomes did not change to the ISC at 98.5 as the pickups. They were under a different emissions standards and depends if the mfg used banking.
ISC used the Cummins Accumulator Pump System (CAPS) injection pump not the Bosch VP series. The early CAPS were pretty much labeled CrAPS by everyone that used them. Make sure any ISC has an updated CAPS.
I still have a copy of the "Weekend Wedding License". Some GFs did not think it was funny.
A motorhome will need a dinghy (toad) to make your grocery run or drive thru at the bank.
On the B versus a C engine. Yes, both 12 valves used the Bosch P-pump. The p-pump was introduced in the early 90's so you need to look at the engine. Motorhomes did not change to the ISC at 98.5 as the pickups. They were under a different emissions standards and depends if the mfg used banking.
ISC used the Cummins Accumulator Pump System (CAPS) injection pump not the Bosch VP series. The early CAPS were pretty much labeled CrAPS by everyone that used them. Make sure any ISC has an updated CAPS.
I still have a copy of the "Weekend Wedding License". Some GFs did not think it was funny.
I plan on making extensive use of Wal-Mart, Rest Areas and Truck Stops. Dropped trailers are an invite for thieves, ticket happy cops, jerk security guards, jackbutt station owners and desperate tow truck drivers, plus, they advertise that no one is around (cause there is no truck hooked up to them when they are dropped cause you took the truck to the bank or whatever) and dropped trailers in lots not belonging to you and rest areas are generally frowned upon. I prefer not to come back and find my house impounded, nor do I plan to be in one place for more than a few nights at the most.
Like I said, I am going to travel and the engine will get plenty of exercise so it wont have a chance to deteriorate like alot of them do from non-use which can be just as damaging as heavy use, maybe even moreso. Grandpa always said the worst thing you could do to anything with a motor was park it somewhere for a while.
Plus, if its raining outside, who wants to get out and walk around to the trailer entrance?
I am thinking about leaving the first gen in tha garage and giving it a try. If I decide to do some sight-seeing or whatever I can always rent a car for a day or two.


