looking for advise on wnat the problem might be.....

(see truck in sig + VA 75hp Box) pulling a 34' gn with 2 jeeps loaded on it (big Jeeps) pulled across the scales @ the truckstop and weighed 20,800# truck trailer and gear...

problem is arround town driving the temp sensor climbs fast up to 220-230, and i had to put it in 4 low to climb a 200 yard 6% grade (from a 10mph start) still took a long time, engine seems to be there boost sounds good, the heat could be comming from the tranny cooler in the bottom of the radiator.. (dont have a tranny temp gauge) engine temp comes back down within 10 miles of getting on the freeway

3.54 gears, auto stock converter, sonnex shift kit

thinking my problem is the converter

 

Your problem is you dont have a Duramax. J/K

I does sound like your convertor is creating alot of heat. What are your EGT's like? Also, the gears are putting alot more load on the engine and trans to get moving, which creates more heat.

 

Is your fan kicking in? Around town if your clutch isn't engaging you won't get much of any cooling through the radiator.

 

dont think so ?? tell me more...


egt ? no idea

only puilled the trailer 2 times (1 hr total )

 

because my buddy has one with a cracked piston.... (680 rwhp)

 

You should be able to hear the roar of the cooling/engine fan kick in at around 180-200deg. Its really hard to miss, when your listening for it. I would go out when the engine is cold and turn the fan by hand, engine not running, if it turns really easy/free wheels, I would say you need a new fan clutch. When my truck is cold for probably the first 5-10 minutes I can hear the fan running also, untill the fluid coupling warms up and disengages, but then when the engine temp gets upto about 180-200deg i'll hear it kick in again.

Make sense?

 

My truck has only been to 220 a couple of times, and I have never heard the fan. When it was going over 200, I flushed the radiator from the rear and that brought it back down to the 180/190 range. If you drive much in dirty conditions, you might want to try the flush.

Also, my '99 has never been much for getting heavy loads moving in a hurry. I never tried to pull/haul more then about 12k. Adding the EZ and RV 275 injectors helped a lot, but the addition of the MBRP 4" made the most diference. The turbo reaches boost much faster with the MBRP. I guess it's the combination of all three.

 

Maybe my fan clutch engages too early then? Seems like it should definately engage before 220!! Maybe the fans on the newer trucks are quieter than mine or the cab just muffles the sound a lot more.

 

How clean is the outside of the radiator? The draft tube can coat the radiator which attracts dirt.

 

It's guarenteed that any 24v with enough miles and a puke bottle, which has either never been serviced, or moved, will have a plugged up radiator on the outside. The puke bottle should be serviced at every oil change. This should be the first place you look at for over heating problems on 24v trucks.

 

I've removed and cleaned no less than a dozen radiators for this issue so far this year. I even snapped some pictures of one of them I did so I can show customers what's going on where they can't see.

 

I Can Turn The Fan (with The Motor Off) Easily 1 Finger Very Little Resistance, And It Has Not Ever Roared Like You Described....

How Much Is A New Fan Clutch Only Ones I Found By Searching Was The 600$ Ones

 

In addition to the fouled radiator and defective fan clutch, the early 24V engines had thermostat problems - have you ever changed yours?

I tow a 16K GVWR 5th wheel in the Texas Hill Country and the Davis Mountains with summertime temps over 100 degF and don't have any overheating problems, but I have a 6 speed.

On my previous truck (a 1996 V-10/47RE 3500 dually), I installed a B&M Supercooler between the transmission and the radiator tank cooler to reduce the heat load transferred to the engine coolant - it really helped when towing in Houston stop-and-go traffic and on long, low speed grades where the truck was running with the converter unlocked.

Rusty

 

A new clutch from checker, autozone, napa, should be less than $100 more like $50. When cold the clutch should have some resistance it will still turn but it shouldn't free wheel.

I would also check into what the other guys mentioned about the oil covering the radiator, if that has infact happend you should take it out and have a radiator shop clean and pressure test it. Also replacing the t-stat would not be a bad idea.

And installing a large cooler for the transmission, especially for stop/go driving.

 

Here you go, fan clutch.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductL...for=Fan+Clutch