7pin connector inside the bed
7pin connector inside the bed
Hi folks,
I've seen it discussed here before: I want to permanently install a 7pin connector inside the pickup bed above the left wheel well but I don't want to splice into the factory trailer wiring harness (under the pickup bed) unless the factory says they've provided a place for splicing. Does anyone know if the factory provides such a spot? Looking at the front of the factory 7pin connector, perhaps Dodge (or somebody else) may manufacture a parallel connector that “plugs-in” at the front of the factory 7pin to run an additional connector inside the bed. Has anyone asked Dodge or aware of a Technical Service Bulletin concerning this?
I've seen it discussed here before: I want to permanently install a 7pin connector inside the pickup bed above the left wheel well but I don't want to splice into the factory trailer wiring harness (under the pickup bed) unless the factory says they've provided a place for splicing. Does anyone know if the factory provides such a spot? Looking at the front of the factory 7pin connector, perhaps Dodge (or somebody else) may manufacture a parallel connector that “plugs-in” at the front of the factory 7pin to run an additional connector inside the bed. Has anyone asked Dodge or aware of a Technical Service Bulletin concerning this?
I thought is would be real simple for someone to make an adapter just like you say, I didn't feel like waiting and I still don't think they make one.
I taped into the wires right behind that plug, soldered and heat shrink and taped it.
I know some people just put the male end on the chord and loop it around the bumper and plug it into the factory plug that is in the bumper. I don't like the looks of that myself or having to plug or unplug it when you need it.
I taped into the wires right behind that plug, soldered and heat shrink and taped it.
I know some people just put the male end on the chord and loop it around the bumper and plug it into the factory plug that is in the bumper. I don't like the looks of that myself or having to plug or unplug it when you need it.
Well the only adapter they have plugs in but only gives you a 4 wire connection. I do not like slicing into wires, especially the wires that are subject to water, and other debris under the truck. This is how I put my plug into the bed.
First I located the plug in the center of the left (drivers side) wheel well. Drilled the center hole and four 1/4" ones and mounted the male 7-pin plug. I then got some HD 7-wire 14 gage cable and a Fe-male 7-pin plug. This is the same cable the trailer manufactures use, so the wires are the right colors. I wired the male plug in the bed up and snaked the cable down to the rear of the truck, back where the factory hitch is. I used strong cable ty-wraps and secured the cable well. Then I cut the cable to where it would reach the factory 7-pin plug and wired it up to the Fe=male 7-pin plug. Now I just plug it in, and I am done, no splices and I know it is right, the colors are the same. Also the Fe-male plug can be un-plugged it you need to tow a tag trailer, so you didn't loose anything, just gained a plug in the bed. I also applied some RTV silicon to the plug in the bed, around the area that was drilled to prevent rust. This is how I did it, and it has work fine for me. Good luck.
First I located the plug in the center of the left (drivers side) wheel well. Drilled the center hole and four 1/4" ones and mounted the male 7-pin plug. I then got some HD 7-wire 14 gage cable and a Fe-male 7-pin plug. This is the same cable the trailer manufactures use, so the wires are the right colors. I wired the male plug in the bed up and snaked the cable down to the rear of the truck, back where the factory hitch is. I used strong cable ty-wraps and secured the cable well. Then I cut the cable to where it would reach the factory 7-pin plug and wired it up to the Fe=male 7-pin plug. Now I just plug it in, and I am done, no splices and I know it is right, the colors are the same. Also the Fe-male plug can be un-plugged it you need to tow a tag trailer, so you didn't loose anything, just gained a plug in the bed. I also applied some RTV silicon to the plug in the bed, around the area that was drilled to prevent rust. This is how I did it, and it has work fine for me. Good luck.
If spliced soldered and sealed correct it will never be a problem. I have done much splicing and soldering for water proof connections so I guess it doesn't really bother me to do it. What ever works best for you is the correct way, but it would sure be nice to have an in bed plug right from the factory, along with a electic brake that is part of the vehicle breaking system. But it makes way too much sence to see the factory ever do it LOL
wire pigtail
You can buy a 7 pin pigtail with the male / female ends already attached at most reputable trailer hitch merchants. I bought one that was about 6 feet long, took the female end off and ran the wire through the hole we drilled in the left rear inside of the bed. Pulled the wire through and cut it to length then reattached the female end. Just plug it into the OEM receptacle and your good to go! I use a heavy duty o-ring around the spring loaded cover and the plug just to insure it doesn't come loose for some reason.
When I had my GN hitch installed, Ashland Hitch made me up a six foot cord that I plug into the original hitch plug under the bed and run up between the tailgate and the bed when I use the GN. That way when I use the dump trailer, I just unplug it from the frame hitch and plug in the dump. No more drilling and taping and all that crap.
That cord works well when trouble shooting trailer wiring too. Just back up close to the trailer you're working on and plug it in.
That cord works well when trouble shooting trailer wiring too. Just back up close to the trailer you're working on and plug it in.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Ripper406
Towing and Hauling / RV
4
Apr 6, 2005 07:38 PM



