yesterday I changed the fuel filter and went looking for the valve to test the fuel pressure and no such luck, couldn't find it.. and i looked all over the internet, anyone know where the valve is so i can test it??/

 

There is no "valve" or test port.
Back to morning brew...

 

well then awsome.. how am i supposed to check it?????

 

Well, you could start at DTR's store to see what you would be in for, towards the bottom of the page you will find Fuel pressure guages. These are for permanent installation and if you have the $$ opportunity, it is a great tool to have onboard all the time. You would need a 'pod' to mount the gauge in and decide how many gauges you will eventually want. Typically, fuel pressure (lift pump pressure), exhaust temperature and either Boost pressure or Transmission Temperature (if you have an automatic).

For comparison shopping, look at Geno's Garage which has good pricing and top notch support, but give the DTR store a call and tell him you are a new member, and he'll take good care of you.

For rail pressure, look at Quadzilla's product. Hopefully, someone here will chime in on this one cause I don't know too much about it. If you call DTR, he knows. He knows everything.

Did you check the battery and grid heater ideas from the earlier post?

Back to the morning brew left in the pot...

 

When I start the truck it drains me down to like 8 until i hit about 20 mph. I looked at relays. I have a relay and fuse.. pull both? just keep them out? What would be your best guess on my issue. I'd rather spend the money finding out on the part? Should I just buy the air dog? do you really believe its low fuel pressure and that if i bought the air dog that would fix everything? if so.. how long does it take to install, i looked at pics of someone doin it, doesn't look too difficult.

 

I'm guessing you are talking PSI on your fuel pressure gauge. That is fine. BUT, if you are talking about Voltage, don't go off the gauge in the dash, it lies and only shows what the computer wants it to show. Best if you can have someone crank it while you hold a gauge to the battery post clamps. You can pick up a volt/ohm meter cheap. If voltage is low, clean all your cable connections and test again.

Follow two black wires off the top of the relays, they join into one connector and connects to the NEGATIVE battery post on the passenger side. Disconnect and protect that. (elect tape)Hard to tell, still waiting for an answer on the age of your batteries and the Real voltage while cranking.

I don't have the specs in front of me but a quick search here brought up two specs, one is 950mL/10sec and the other was 590mL. Someone got their first 2 number swapped. Anyway, without a pressure gauge, you can hold a clean, empty, dry 2 Liter soda bottle up under the fuel filter, open the drain and have someone turn the key to the "On" position for 10 seconds. Don't start the truck. 950 is about 1/2 the bottle, 590 is just over 1/4 bottle. If you have good flow, don't buy an Air Dog unless you think you want to upgrade at this point, but that won't solve your no start issue.

 

i was talking voltage, ok i'll go test it right now with ohm meter i have one

 

age is when the truck was built they are original batteries

 

Any update? Install new batteries? Anything?

 

Somebody posted these up on another thread. Good info on how to determine if the valve on the CP3 or if an injector is dumping excess/out of spec volume of return fuel.

Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMbB4...eature=related

Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QI5tk...eature=related

Part 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XESrN...eature=related

Part 4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvFHz...eature=related

 

Jeff, the links won't work. Try these...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMbB4UMZMpI Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QI5tkHp9R9w Part 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvFHzrwiQfA Part 4

I couldn't find a direct link to 3 of 4, but you can find them all with this search. The good fuel info is in 4 of 4.
http://tinyurl.com/24fdygd

 

believe it or not.. after all that testing .. it was the batteries.. changed them both out.. havent had any issue since.. they tested good on machine.. never died..but i guess just didnt have enough juice...

 

Thanks for the follow up!

 

Just for my own curiosity here. You stated in an earlier post that you load tested the batteries. Did you isolate them from each other before the test?

 

di3s3lw0man,

I also have a 2003 with a "No Start" condition. It started Oct '08 once the temps in NY dropped below 50'. I limped thru the winter starting with ether until March '09 when I saw a TSB 18-003-04 indicated the need for an ECM Flash to cure problems including both a slow responsive fuel gauge and a Hard Start issue. I took it to my dealer and Talked them into doing the ECM Flash per the TSB even though they didn't want to without start the testing from scratch. The ECM Flash worked and the truck started on it's own afterward even though it had not done so from Oct-March and I drove it home. It continued to start perfectly until oct '09 when again the temps dropped below 50' and still doesn't to this day. I am scheduled to go back to the dealer and later today and I want them to reapply the same Flash, the only thing I can figure is that it may have gotten corrupted somehow. I also went through all the steps in TSB 14-003-06 in the 3rd section titled "Engine will not start/Hard to start" and all fuel volume test came out perfect as well as voltage drop tests (I replaced the batteries last week anyway). Although the Volt Drop test is OK and the batteries are new I also suspect maybe a bad key switch is not passing on enough or any voltage to the ECM. It seems that the few times that it does start, it does so if I wiggle the key in the crank position. Does anyone know which color wire out of the key switch feeds the 12v to the ECM in the crank and run position?

I am uploading both TSBs, the TSB 14-003-06 Kens Results.PDF has my test results included.

If anyone can help please do .... the funny thing is any time I get into the checking and trouble shooting and disconnect Pressure sensor/FCA wiring plugs, high pressure volume test etc the truck will start up a few times for about 15 minutes then it goes back to "no start".