Ok,
Was doing the rear brakes the other day. Pulled the drivers side drum off and found it and the shoes, backing plate covered with oil. Not brake fluid. I've search the forum and net for proceedurs and torq's spec's for the outer hub cover nuts, axle nut and so for. Find everything for front axle seals. I need the special socket 2 9/16" socket. What can I use instead of the tool for seating the seal? What parts/ tools I would need on hand since I live in the middle of no where. I like to have everything I might need and not get into the job to find out I need a part I don't have. Many of the auto parts stores around hear know this and will let me bring back what you didn't use. I have taken every thing off down to the backing plate. It looks like I should be able to remove the outer hub cover, remove the pin, unscrew the axle nut, pull the axle out carefully. But there might be something hideing I don't know about. Thanks for all your help. I'll video and take pic's of what I'm doing for the next guy/gal to follow. Oh-Since I'll pull every thing off I was thinking of doing the wheel cylinder mod I heard about.

 

Make sure your axle vent is not plugged first.

 

you can just use a punch to drive the seal in I have a 3/4 " square brass stock about 6" long thats what I use just be careful not to distort the seal go slow and like was said check the vent

 

And while your at it...Put a speedy sleeve on the axle...Don't be like me..being to cheap to spend the money...I destroyed two brand new pads..And they are not cheap on a dually...

 

Thanks for the prompt replys. I'll looked at the speedy sleeve (size) and will see if I can locate local. What size and parts should I order? Is there a online manual that show's the prceedure and spec's? My cd's for the truck will not load now. Some type of cyclick(sic) rundancy error. Most of the shop's here don't have the parts on hand have to order it. I check yesterday for the socket, no one has it and one NAPA whant's $234.00 to order one.

Update:
I found the socket, but show's one for rounded nut. Which socket? The square or rounded?

 

Excellent instructions> http://forum.mopar1973man.com/thread...-axle-hub-seal

 

Infidel, Thank for the info. The job looks like it shouldn't be a hair puller. I'm still looking for the torq spec's for the hub bolts. Dose the axle nut use a round or square socket for the nut? I have the following info: Torq axle nut 120-130 ft lbs (what's the average to start with ) while turning the wheel, then back off 1/3 turn. I'm leaning towards the wheel cyl mod. What's the napa #? The one I have dose not show in their computer now. Sorry to seem overly caution.

 

It's a special axle nut socket with rounded corners.
I paid about $25 for mine at Napa.

 

I finely have all the part to do the axle. I even picked up the brake wheel cylinder to swap out to the the larger size. Had to make another 80mile round trip since the J.O's at the kona napa couldn't get off their *** to get me the socket on the first trip. The only thing now Is getting the torq spec's for the axle cover hub/flange nut's and the brake cylinder bolts. You guy's been great on the info. I'll video and take pic's when I do the job and post them.

 

Help,
The axle and hub came off very easy. I've included pic's on the hub. The seal NAPA gave dose not match what I see in the hub. It came off this way. Hub nuts remove, axle slide right out, Lock pin removed, axle nut removed, hub removed, outer bearing slide out into the box on ground for protection. I think the tappered end fits toward the truck. I looked inside and see what looks like a metal band around the inside. I think the bearing stops against this. I turned the hub over and see what looks like a seal that sits flush with the rim of the hub. I can slide the inside bearing up towards the rear of the hub stopping at the seal with my finger for almost a 1/4". I need to get this truck back up and running soon, It's my daily driver and my rides getting real annoyed. I even upgraded the wheel brake cylinder, will do the other side when this side is reassembled. Am I missing something? Witch seal will cause the leak onto the brake shoes and drum?

Pic's are pending:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...8&ppuser=91556
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...9&ppuser=91556
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...0&ppuser=91556
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...1&ppuser=91556
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...2&ppuser=91556
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...3&ppuser=91556
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...4&ppuser=91556
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...5&ppuser=91556

 

pic's are up

 

your seal closest to the drum would be the likely culprit. i dont know for sure if napa gave you the right ones, but they look like the seal that would go there.

should be seal then inside bearing race (ring that bearing sits against), was there an seal on the spindle? or on the drum itself? note the seals shown in mopar thread are for the axle to hub area and not what you are trying to replace. for referance this hub style is refered to as "floating". dont forget to preset your bearings. or you will be in there for the spindle when you spin the bearings.

 

I see your problem, they gave you a seal for a 9-1/4" 1/2 ton rear.

The NAPA number crosses to a SKF seal, so I would call them and see what they say a NAPA 30033 seal fits.

Bet anything it is what you need.

BTW, the inner seal is the only seal.

 

Infidel or anyone. Wonder if you can help. I was able to get the rear wheel seal by getting the local dodge dealer part's guy on the phone. He was able to tell me what seal to use via the last 8 VIN#'s. I took that OEM number and had rockauto cross reference it to a seal. It cam up as number 28746. I had the local machine shop remove the old seal and press in this new one. The 28746 seal looks different from the original one. Now there's a gap between the hub and axle spindle. I hear two different types of seals could be used on this truck. I can not get it to slide on more. It won't go, there's a solid feel of not wanting to slide on more. I took the old spindle nut and torq it down to see if it needed some help. Still the same, theres a gap. Is this ok? Check the pic's below. If they post.

Original Seal:
Click the fifth line down on my above post with the links to the pic's.

New Seal 28746 and the gap:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...3&ppuser=91556

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...3&ppuser=91556

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...2&ppuser=91556

I put the outside bearing in with the tapered end toward the truck.

Man. I really need to get this truck back on the road. I can't belive the hassle I half to go thru with napa to get the right parts. That's why I used RockAuto.

Little update: 05/06/12
I rechecked the OEM # 3496557 that the dealer gave me from my VIN#. Everything leads back to the seal # 28746. I should and would recommend that the outer axle tube where the seal set's be measured for shaft size. And pick up a few seal to check fit. That what's going thru my mind right now. I even went out and the new brake drum slid on with about 1/4" clearance between the drum edge and back plate. If the exposed gap between the rear of the hub to where the older seal sat, the gap between the drum and back plate should be larger than the aprox 1/4"? Whating for pic's to be approved. I have made video's of everything I've done and will upload once this job is done. Wow...

 

The 28746 seal is listed for a Dana 70, if it pressed in the housing correctly, then it should be the seal you need. From all indications, since you have a manual truck, it should be the 80, but those hubs bores are 4-1/4" versus the seal you say you have which has a bore of 3-7/8".

Measure the diameter of the sealing surface, if it is 2-7/8" then you have the correct seal, just haven't got it slid on all the way.

When you tighten the adjuster nut, will the hub still turn freely? Looking at the back side, does it appear is if the seal has went over the sealing surface at all, from the picture you had, it sure didn't look like it to me.