http://www.dieselmanor.com/isspro/r5..._fuelpress.asp

Get that gauge. And then order the tapped banjo bolt. Then get a 1/8" NPT male fitting that connects to a -4 stainless braided line (probably have to call up summit racing to get that). Get 6' of -4 braided line (should be enough to get it into the over head gauge pod), then order whatever size fitting is needed to go on the back of the gauge and connects to the -4 line.

 

Phil,
Diesel Manor is going to send you the same tubing and compression fittings as they do with the Bosst gauges. ( similiar to air-brake lines, oil and fuel resistant).

All you will need is a tapped banjo and needle valve with 1/8"npt threads.
The stainless hose is just overkill and expensive. We're talking veru low psi here.
Simple.

 

I prefer the stainless line over the nylon tubing because of the risk of it getting cut on the fire wall or somewhere else.

 

I cant' help you with where to buy the tubing, but be sure it that stainless steel braid on the outside, and that you use a needle valve on top of the fuel filter to shut off the flow in case of tubing or gauge failure. It will also allow you to just crack open the valve a bit (1/8th turn) to eliminate the rattle that gets transmitted up to the gauge from the pump.

 

I wouldnt necessarily say braided stainless is overkill....but overkill's good isnt it??

In reality, using 1/8" tubing with some 1/4" tubing over it for abrasion resistance (Infidels setup) would be just fine for a fuel pressure setup.

 

Agreed, but I sleeved mine inside another 1/8" piece of fuel hose all the way from the FF canister to the back of the gauge.
Much cheaper, still functional.

 

Never thought of that. Good idea and your right, it would be a lot cheaper.

 

Why, thank you. But it was Infidel's idea that got me on to thing I didn't need to buy a $40.00 hose when I can "sheath" regular tubing with fuel grade hose found at any part's store for about .40c a foot.
I had actually originaly looked into a kit of stainless sleeves, you know the kind the little tuner type kids use to dress up their CRX's?
I fuigured why have any stainless, if it was needed then why are the line rom the frame rail to the LP and FF just rubber?

To each his own, if mine fails or leaks I'll be the first to admit it.

 

OK, so about the fuel tubing going to the gauge...

I don't want to use stainless braid. I need it to be long, like around 14', since I'll be mounting the gauges over my rearview mirror. Can anybody provide a link to a hose that would work well for this? I saw that Diesel Manor has this kit, but I'm not sure if the hose would be good to use for fuel tubing:

http://www.dieselmanor.com/dm_products/DM-TK14.asp

 

Phil, Id say go ahead and using that tubing. It might be worthwhile finding out what the temperature rating on the tubing is. The fuel can get pretty hot. I dont know how well putting the FP guage above the mirror is going to work for you. You might want to consider moving it elsewhere.

 

so why should a guy use the issolator? is it mainly just to keep fuel out of the cab? I'm figuring I'll either use the A-pillar or maybe the dash top mount for my 3 gauges. Just not sure which would look the best.

 

I'm having a hell of a time finding 1/8" OD (very small!) diesel fuel tubing online that you can buy by the foot. Anybody got any leads?

 

Are you sure you don't mean inside diameter?

 

That's what I'd think, but Diesel Manor lists the OD as 1/8".

 

You are correct sir! I bought 1/8" ID fuel hose from NAPA, put some soapy water in it and slipped the tubing right through it.

Same tubing for the boost gauge, right?
It is tiny inside, the OD is 1/8".

EDIT: Phil, just call David. Tell him what you need in the way of length. I think they cut that tubing there, he should be able to sell you 20 feet if you want it.

EDIT AGAIN: 14 feet isn't enough? Seems like it would be?