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Water/Meth Controller

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Old 11-20-2006, 04:32 PM
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Water/Meth Controller

I'm thinking that after I do studs this winter I wanna throw on some water. Heaven knows that I could use the EGT reduction and the little boost in power would be nice. I plan on running just washer fluid cause I don't think a stock headgasket with studs would hold much more than that and I surely don't have the money to replace that thing.

My question is this, I'm in college and broke as a joke so I'm trying to do this as cheaply as possible without sacrificing reliability. This will only be used for WOT runs as my normal daily driving doesn't warrant the need for it nor do I tow so that's not an issue either. I've been looking at different kits and a couple of them just have a hobbs switch that turns on at say 20psi and is wide open that second. Now that's a cheap and easy way to do it but it seems to me that it would be a very violent hit and put a lot of sudden stress on parts. Would it really be that bad to run one of those with a dual nozzle setup if I set it to come on at like 25-30psi or do I really need one of those adjustable one's that slowly ramps it up to full flow as boost increases? I'd like to do that but I'm looking at money options right now. Thanks yall.
Old 11-20-2006, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBlue
would be a very violent hit and put a lot of sudden stress on parts.
its not a violent hit. i finally got mine set up right and you dont really notice in the SOP meter. it just keeps your egts cooler....
Old 11-20-2006, 05:32 PM
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Really? I would think that the sudden injection of a seperate fuel source (meth) would cause a noticeable hit.
Old 11-20-2006, 05:44 PM
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Nope, rjohnson says the same thing. The only way you can tell that it is working is your egts won't rise as quick and if you'll let out of it, the egts will drop about 150-200 degrees.
Old 11-20-2006, 05:46 PM
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nope. no real seat of pants feel from it.. I have the Snow Performance Stage 3 kit.. and when i have it set with the biggest nozzles and gain up to 100% and go out on a WOT run... it kicks in and slows how fast my EGTs go up, and how high they ultimately get.. I notice the power on my Dyno Runs.. just by Numbers.. but you really don't feel it.. They try to make it as smooth going up to 100% injection as possible, but it still gets to that point quickly.. I've run pure water, and 35% meth (washer fluid).
Old 11-20-2006, 05:46 PM
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Interesting. You think it would be bad to suddenly have it dumped at that low of a PSI? Might put the fire out? As it sits now if I just floor it off the line it just smokes through first gear and doesn't actually launch until 2nd gear. Watch out when it does though.
Old 11-20-2006, 05:51 PM
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Hmm, all you guys that can break em loose.. and have the same HP as me!!! i don't get it.. must be my super wide tires .. but uhm.. IF you dump 100% at low RPM's you quench the combustion cycle.. This happened when i was runnin pure water and the big nozzles.. but didnt have both my chips on also.. it would sputter and kinda pop.. but with a little meth in there.. and a bit more fuel.. and of course more boost.. you have absolutely no problems with quenching.. the stage 3 kit you also have the metered adjustment from 0-100% gain.. At 0% gain it doesnt even inject no matter how high your boost/EGT's get.. Adjust higher and you get more and more injection percentages..
Old 11-20-2006, 05:59 PM
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Breaking tires loose is not an issue for me at this point. 315/75/16 with 3.54 gears, big turbo, and tight converter just don't allow for it. Especially with stock shafts.

That was my concern about injecting it to low. Maybe I'll set it to inject at 35-40psi. That's darn near full spool for me so it shouldn't be an issue then.
Old 11-20-2006, 06:02 PM
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i was saying if i just floor the truck in first gear.. i can't get it to spin the tires.. i have to power brake to get any spin going on dry pavement.. IF its went out or there is dirt.. i have no traction whatsoever.. But i'm running 325/50/R22 Toyo Open Country AT's and have billet intermediate and input shafts with a very tight TC..
Old 11-20-2006, 06:04 PM
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That's how I gotta do it. Power brake it on dry ground. I haven't had a chance to drive the truck in the rain with the DTT yet but it was already a handful with a dead stocker so I can't imagine it's going to be any nicer.
Old 11-20-2006, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by n0ne
i was saying if i just floor the truck in first gear.. i can't get it to spin the tires.. i have to power brake to get any spin going on dry pavement.. IF its went out or there is dirt.. i have no traction whatsoever.. But i'm running 325/50/R22 Toyo Open Country AT's and have billet intermediate and input shafts with a very tight TC..
I used to have that problem, but the tst comp solved it =P Level 4 will break all 4 toyo open country at's loose from a roll on dry pavement
Old 11-20-2006, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Ph4tty
I used to have that problem, but the tst comp solved it =P Level 4 will break all 4 toyo open country at's loose from a roll on dry pavement
cool aint it??!!
Old 11-20-2006, 11:18 PM
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well, this christmas, imma go for gettin Head studs/Mach 6's/an S400 turbo and all the piping for twins.... and a remote inline exhaust brake.. for the 31 foot V-Nose snowmobile trailer i have on order.. That should solve the too much traction problem :
Old 11-20-2006, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by blackdiesel
cool aint it??!!
It hasn't even seen level 6, 7, 8, or 9. As far as I can tell level 5 starting killing my u joints =\ Once I get some spicers I'll play some more
Old 11-21-2006, 02:03 AM
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Lucky. I hammered on it on level 9 a couple of times tonight with the TST comp and all it does is lag for a second and then the truck shoots off like a rocket.


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