What would be the best U-joints to put in my truck?? I've heard Precision is pretty good from a buddy who ran them in race cars.<br><br>

 

The heafty ones I've seen are the CTM joints, they use bushings instead of roller bearings. I think you can only get 'em through mail order. Try the back pages of your favorite 4X4 magazine.

 

I had mine done a while back. Replaced with moog ones.<br><br>No complains yet. Are you looking for something over and above normal replacement u-joints?

 

ctm's are not rated for street driving. they are the strongest out therw, they are forged from 300m. and carry a life time warranty. but the bronze bushings will get too hot driving down the highway and burn the grease out. they also run 150 bucks each. i know a bunch of folks that run them and they are killer strong. just not the best thing for a street drivin truck. mike

 

[quote author=Rattlerattle link=board=7;threadid=15788;start=0#148682 date=1055446228]<br> Are you looking for something over and above normal replacement u-joints?<br>[/quote]<br><br>warmest so far

 

I have always sourced Dana/Spicer u-joints for anything that is found to need replacing. Never had a problem with them on my 78 W200 or any of the tractor PTO drivelines I have used them in. I always ask for the greasable ones with the zerk on the end cap to make it easier to maintain, provided the fitting is in an assembly where it won't get knocked off.<br><br>If you want to torture a u-joint put it in a PTO driveline off the back of a tractor - geometry changes for the worst regularly, most sit out in the weather, and only get used sporadically. Worst abuse you will find for a u-joint.

 

Comments on other boards (2-3 of them) seem to indicate that the greasable ones are weaker by nature than the sealed ones.<br><br>In high torque applications such as our trucks, sealed ones seem to be the best choice.<br><br>Picture this if you will:<br><br>A U-Joint with a hole drilled in the center for the zerk fitting.<br>You already have weakened the metal considerabley by drilling it, right in the center, the focus of the torque.<br>Sure, greasing it will make it last longer, if it doesn't twist in half by then.<br><br>Other consensus seems to be that the Dodge factory replacement joints are the strongest of the sealed units as well.<br><br>I haven't formed an opinion yet, as I am still on my original joints.<br>I'm sure as time progresses, HP and Torque get increased, I'll be replacing mine someday.<br><br><br>phox

 

I agree with the sealed ones. The greaseable ones are not as strong. They are easier to pump up with grease, but usually people squirt to much grease in them anyways and blow out the seals. Then they fail much easier. I usually use spicer as well. Can get them almost anywhere and some if not most have lifetime warranties.

 

I commented on this subject a while back. I have found, from personal experience and many perfessional opinoins, Spicer u-joints are the best. Greasable is OK, but I dont advise using them. A few reasons are that the zirk fittings causes a weak point. To help this you should install them with the zirk hole being pushed together instead of pulled apart. The seal is also weaker on the greasable. This allows grease to easily escape letting in water and dirt. Guys think that since you can grease them they are better. Not true. The seal on the non-greaseable has three seals which fits so good it snaps in place which is way better at keeping out crud. Remember how the greaseable caps fall off if not carefull? They have to be this sloppy so you can shove grease in them. Non-greaseable with a high quality synthetic grease will give years of dependable use.<br>And to add a quick tip: When ever you change u-joints have the drive shaft rebalanced because the new joint will weigh different and could change the tolerances giving you a vibration.

 

Interesting discussion.<br>What about u-joints with a grease fitting in an end cap? I wonder if this would be as strong as a sealed unit since there is not drilling into the center for the grease fitting. The fitting being in the end cap should not comprmise the strength of the end cap since the pressure is on the sides.<br><br>Chris

 

the joints with the fitting in the end cap are also hollow inside and the fitting stands a better chance of being knocked off in a 4 wheeling situation. If u will notice on a spicer joint under the cup there is a recessed portion of the joint I usually pack that with grease to over capacity and reinstall the cups providing extra gease to the joint.

 

Hello to all<br> I have a 01 2500 with 52,000 miles on it and had to replace the middle U joint. I chose to go with the Percession Brand due to them having a grease zerk. There u joint is also bigger than the stock. I replaced all three, while I was in there. I can send you pictures if you want. The way I see it is it is your money spend as you see fit.<br>See Ya<br>Chris

 

I would think that being hollowed out would make them stronger, try to bend a solid metal rod, then try to bend a hollow one. just my $.02.................<br>

 

In response to being stronger, would you take a hollow pin for your receiver hitch or a solid one. The solid one wont shear as easy as the hollow one.

 

Look at the dirrection of the force being applied, the bars and the U-jionts are having the preasure applied to the ends, a shear pin it is being applied to a more central sufrace.<br>