Hello, I put in a # 10 plate & a 3GSK. Works great, but when I decelerate, the turbo wants to bark at me.. Phoned the diesel shop, & they said to keep the Pyro under 1000.. & boost under 30..Also recommended a larger exhaust & a bigger intake.. what is he talking about a bigger intake? what would I look for in ebay?? Would there be any damage if it just keeps barking away??? Any thing else I can do to make it quit??
thanks

 

AEM, AFE, K&N, icebox, there are lots of "intakes" for our trucks. better milage and performance with just the afe stage 1 kit. Stage 2 kit has tubing and a filter in a box. You will see around a 40% increase with almost anything outside of your stock airbox. They arn't really cheap starting at $200 or you can put a BHAF in.

 

I would just put a BHAF in the truck and call it a day. No need for a fancy high priced intake unless it's a show truck. They all serve the same purpose and the BHAF will flow plenty to keep your truck happy.

 

OK thanks, BHAF it'll be, now from a greenhorn, What exactly is a BHAF, Can I get one on ebay, or any other recommendations??
I put on 350 miles since I first posted..
Luckily most of the way I had a pretty good tail wind but once in awhile as the road turned then I'd end up with a sidewind.. I'm towing my RV 11,000 lbs
& I did notice that at about 62 mph, with a sidewind I'd be touching 1000 on the pyro gauge, & if I step on it a bit my boost would get up to 30 (my gauge only goes to 30.. Would the BHAF help lower the EGT.. What is the best way to lower them.. My plate is in the middle where my factory one was..Other than the mentioned things the truck performs excellent.. climbs hills at 60mph, but I have to be careful to accelerate slowly, or boost goes to 30+, & EGT will climb to 12 +.

 

you can run the stock turbo to 35-40 lbs and be fine. yes more air (intake and exhaust) will cool your egt a little bit. Try changing up the timing a bit for a little cooler running and a little more power. I have a afe intake in the classifieds for sell if your interested.

 

1000 is very conservative unless those are some kind of kanadian egts
With stock timing 1350 is what they say you can run all day long, less of course with advanced timing, but advancing the timing might bring egts down anyways.

A boost elbow or a manual boost controller can get the turbo dialed in. 30 is kind of conservative too, but the hx35 will start to really heat up past 35.

You can eliminate barking by not flooring it then letting off suddenly =P Barking can snap the shaft on the turbo and cause additional wear on the bearings. BD does sell a blow off valve to let off the boost when you shift, but it costs too much.

 

I found a BHAF on ebay, but he also has a a Pre filter for the BHAF. Is this filter necesssary or can I go without??

 

Maybe pyro is mounted POST turbo??

Superuke - pre filter is not needed, but suggested, i think, if traveling many dirt/gravel roads.

RJ

 

Thanks, Pyro is mounted on manifold. I don't know why Wilkinson Deisel in Regina Sask.. quoted those numbers for Pyro & Boost.. This shop also installs plates & performance chips.. But does this mean I can go up to 1200/1300safely?? this is my first trip with the mods, & so far they're great, but I've been watching the gauges & trying to stay 1000 & under on the pyro.. But it seems to get to 1200 rather quickly...especially starting out from a stop sign..

 

Forgot to mention, heading your way in a few days.. we're going to South Texas for the winter.

 

It's not how hot you get...it's how long you stay hot.
Drag racers see 1600-1800* in a qtr mile.... but only for 6-10 sec!

Non towing, I try to stay under 1200 sustained. Any hills or acceleration (passing, etc) that get over 1200*, I start counting....one-one thousand ..... two-one thousand....... Seriously!
I don't let it go over 1200* for more than 10 sec. This is probably conservative.... but that's the way I prefer it.

Hope it warms up around here for you. It's cold for us right now..... probable nice for 'you-all"

RJ

 

30 this morning... Thanks for the other info.. I understand now.
John

 

I wouldn't do the BHAF..... Dyno runs have proven it to actually drop RWHP by 3-5. I haven't dynoed any of the really new filter setups but a couple years ago when tested the AFE Mega-Cannon was the ONLY filter unit that actually produced a HP gain. Most of them actually hurt performance.

 

Hay Doug, your saying that the BHAF made less HP than a stocker?

 

Thats what I am saying.... Bigger isn't always better. In fact drilling a few holes in the OEM box is a cheap mod that will yield a small increase in HP. The AFE unit did produce a much bigger gain (around 10-12 HP) on a 500 HP truck.