I've spent hours reading threads about converters and still not sure what to do. Long story short I was pulling my 5th wheel trailer home and lost converter lockup. Had the local trans shop do some tests and determined it to be the converter is shot. I know goerend is the popular choice and I wish I had the cash but there s no way I can afford it. I'm looking at $700 at most. It seems the number one thing to know when deciding on a converter is what you use the truck for and how much power it puts out. I started building it for power and speed. Now married with a kid its just my daily driver and tow rig. I need something to hold up to heavy towing (12,500) and I have no idea how much hp/tq I'm putting out. I know the chip and injectors are rated around 150 hp and 300 lbs tq each but I'm only running a hx35 putting out 35 lbs of boost. Also stock gearing 3.54 with the 35s. Any help on power ratings and converters in my price range?

Thanks

 

Goerend or Suncoast. Save till you can afford it. That is my recommendation brother.

 

I've used Goerend, Suncoast, and BD. I'd use either of the first two (Goerend would by my first choice), but stay far away from BD. I know you said you only want to spend $700, but you get what you pay for. You may get something good for $700, but what if you get a piece of junk? If you want to go and the less expensive side you could get you factory one gone through for around $600. I know there was/is a guy in MO that does it but I've never used him.

 

Before you do anything on the converter issues let me ask you this, if the converter is shot how did you get home? The converter would be slipping and shuddering in any gears and with that much wt 12,500 I'm thinking something happen in your overdrive unit.

 

DTT and Goerend had lower cost single disc conveters a few years ago in the 700$ range and I think could hold 400hp, approx what your truck is at. Give them a call they may some options that aren't advertised.

 

I wouldn't recommend this unless he installs better bearings, bigger clutch and converts it to a billet cover and piston.... Which is exactly what the trans shops do with your core for the same price...ish...

If it's the lockup that's gone out, and you drove it that way, I too wonder how the rest of the trans is.

If it comes down to replacing the TQ: I was in the same boat as you. Couldn't afford the Goerend triple disk I wanted, but I needed my truck going. So I had my local trans shop build me a custom stall single disk. The single disks can hold up to a lot of power. DON'T get a stamped steel converter. It must be billet and try to get torrington bearings. The OE stamped covers have a stamped piston inside which warps and causes slip. My custom converter cost me $650 all said and done.

 

The HP upgrades combined with your gearing and taller tires= less tall gearing is what killed the converter by pulling that weight.

So that means you need a much stronger converter NOT an inexpensive replacement and most likely a tranny tear down major cleaning at a bare minimum or possible rebuild depending on how much debris was circulated where and for how long.

Go too cheap/weak and you will get to repeat this process (spend more money) again in a short while.

Do it right once Goerend or ddt or ect and be money ahead in the long run.
Give Goerend a call he will not over sell you and stands behind everything very well = best value by far.

 

I would run a triple disk and a stall unit around 1700-1800 rpm. I must have run four/five different TC units on my truck.

Low stall = more smoke/sluggish turbos, more pushing hard on the brakes at the stop lights.

High stall= instant turbo spool-up, faster acceleration. Once you getting into 3rd or 4th gear, the OD fixes the lower efficency of the higher stall.

 

95ram..you mention stay away from BD. I have a BD single disk converter, valvebody and pan on "E-layaway". I only owe a few hundred of the $2000.00 I spent on them. I have the choice still to cancel the order before I pay it off and get my stuff. Is there a reason you feel that way?

Thanks, Tom

 

I toasted mine and it sent debris thru the trans. Not much damage except the converter fortunately.
I decided to get a 4-disc unit with lifetime warranty for 1600$. Not cheap, but I dont want to do this job a third time.
Part of the problem is the fluid pressure in the trans. you need a good pump (48re?) and valve body to handle all that.

 

Hey kawi, who makes a 4-disk? Does it lock hard? Too hard? And Yes, 48re pump is designed to pump more oil at lower rpm's (compared to 47re) for lugging and flooring it. But I thought 01's already had a 48re?

 

I dunno the details so I put a question mark there. Youre right about the flow though, I think thats a major reason mine died so fast. It was setup to shift sooner and lug a little for heat. Stock pump and that old single disc clutch couldnt keep up.
Ill ask the shop who the mfr is on that torque converter. He seems to like them hes got a bunch of happy customers so far.

 

I believe that's exactly what killed mine as well. Keep me informed on the 4 disk, I may be interested in going that route myself as the gold allows...

 

47RE Stage Torque Converter

 

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