Tmc243

I’ve switched from a 4 Plate to a 10 plate, at the recommendation of Harry at Piers, and still have the same 2 problems, (doesn’t happen as quick with the 10 plate). At WOT, (5-6 seconds) unloaded, I’m pegging a 1500* pyro, and my boost is getting up to 40 to 42lbs. I’ve got a turbomaster which is supposed to let me control the amount of boost. I thought maybe the waste gate was stuck closed, so I wired it open, (if you want to see just how much smoke you can make try this) boost still went to over 35lbs. and was climbing when I backed out of it. I had the 4 plate forward quit a bit; when I installed the 10 I put it as close to dead center as I could. I’ve got a 5ver I pull and am not trying to build a race truck, (but faster is always better) I’m in Texas, so pulling hasn’t been a problem so far as long as I keep an eye on the pyro, (cruise set at 70 running about 900* in O/D). What would be the most economical way to go that should solve problems, with out causing excessive turbo lag.

dodgeman01

I think you need a bigger turbo or at least somethings done to yours.
DM01

Cowhand

I was running substantially the same set up. The only thing that made a difference with EGT's was an ATS manifold and a bigger turbo......I hit over 1500* with the #4 plate, stock HX35 and stock injectors.

Hottest I've gotten since was 1370 peak, and that was standing on the go pedal from a dead stop. Uphill.

Tmc243

Did you install the manifold and the turbo at the same time? Do you think just going to a 16cm housing would help me? If not what turbo would you recommend?

Cowhand

Did the manifold first, while I was waiting on the turbo to show up. A 14 or 16 cm housing would help, but your spool up will suffer.

I just bought a KSB1-2. I'm pretty happy with it now that I have some miles on it. Try as I might, I haven't been able to top 1400* with it. Piers' HX40 would also be an excellent choice, and it's a little more reasonably priced. IMO, you'd be fine with either one.

Then again, there are at least 2 dozen folks on this board that would be infinitely more qualified to recommend a turbo than I. Call Piers and tell him how you are set up and what you plan to do with your truck. Piers, Mark or Harry can point you in the right direction.

infidel

Go to High Tech Turbo at http://www.htturbo.com/ get the phone number and talk to Paul. Explain what you have going on and he will set you straight.
Paul is excellent to deal with and really knows his turbos.

Tmc243

Cowhand, I talked to Harry at piers and he recommended about the same turbo you have, (didn't say quick spool but did recommend the B1-2) just don't think I'm ready to part with that much money. That does sound like the turbo I’d like to have.
Infidel, I’ve also talked to Paul at Hi Tech Turbo and he recommended a HX35/40 hybrid for half the price of the B1and that sounded pretty good also, (especially the price compared to the B1). I don’t want to ”just settle” with that much money on the line. I figured if, I try the 16-cm housing and it doesn’t work out I haven’t lost much, and maybe I can get by for a while. Besides, if I continue running my turbo up to 40 to 42 lbs. I figure it won’t be too long till I have to make some kind of decision. Any idea how much difference, as far as spool up goes, a 16-cm housing will make? I realize I’ll lose some bottom end waiting for spool up but will I make it up in the top end? In a ¼ mile will 0-60 be lower but overall time the same, with possibly a high speed?

vssman

I did the High tech turbo stage 3 upgrade myself. If you can't send the turbo in for machining or do it yourself, then you can have a local machine shop 'turn' the center section for you. you only have to open the compressor wheel relief diameter a little (say .090 to .125"). You can also go with a slightly smaller wheel that bolts on without any machining. The only bad part is that it cured my egt/smoke problems and then I added more fuel... So I'm back to looking at turbos.

Tmc243

I’m definitely already thinking about more fuel, I figure the 370’s should be about right as soon as I get control of my EGT’s. I’m leaning toward the 16-cm housing for now then going for the B-1 and the injectors about the same time (rich long lost relative maybe). If anybody has gone from where I’m at and tried the 16-cm housing, let me know, how much worse the lag is and if you pick up anything on top end, etc.?

MDW

Twins will fix that

DavidTD

To be honest your conditions sound about right for your set-up. You just need more air to cool it down and there have been some good solutions mentioned. I've just seen you mention adding more fuel and if do, the equation will change again. Sounds to me like you are headed towards twins if you expect to manage EGT's. You can move to larger housings but you will create some lag with them. Something I do know is that everyone has a different level of "acceptable lag". What is fine for me might be horrible for you. If possible, find a truck that is running like you expect your's to and talk with the owner. Have him take you for a ride or better yet possibly drive it. It may save you some money in the long run.

I went from a hot burning stock hx35 to a small set of twins. I made a little over 430hp (45psi max)on that stock turbo and yes I was making WELL over 1600 degrees through the traps. EGT's were controlled via my right foot for all other driving. Now I make a little over 450hp (60 psi max) and run 1580 degrees out the traps. The biggest difference is that I removed a lot of fuel and lost all of my full boost smoke with the twins which is what my goal was. It mean't I needed to o-ring the head but it was all well worth it.

CTD NUT

I think most everybody here pegged it. The turbo you have just isn't large enough to manage that kind of boost without sending the egt's through the roof. I noticed that you have 191 delivery valves - that is probaly what is sending your boost that high. Those 191's are letting alot more fuel in across the board. I noticed a boost increase when put in the 190's, but not as high as your peak, but that may be because I am only running a #6 plate. Seems to me you can choose a bigger turbo or ditch the delivery valves in favour of some smaller ones to lower the fuel and boost slightly to keep those egt's in check.

just my .02

rharveysr

Open it up again and move the plate back 15-20k and this will drop your egts...Piers said that with moving the plate this much..you may loose 7 hp but the egts will drop 100-150*

I can do the same thing with my setup..but I have not moved the plate yet. I figured that I would just leave it where it is and drive according to my pyro. The only time that I see this kind of temps is when I really stand in it and hold it or when I tow our 10k 5th wheel and head up a 6% grade. When the pyro gets over to 1200 I start feathering it to keep it there.
I eventually will be running a set of PDR towing twins but for now..I just watch my gauge and enjoy the hp..

Rick

Tmc243

I did the exhaust and the DV's at the same time, I'm going to reinstall the factory DV's, (my pump had the 181's in it) and see what happens to the temp's. I'll go from there to see which way to go with the plate. I'm trying to like this 10 plate but I miss the snap of the 4. Any hints on "tuning" for the 10 would be greatly appreciated. It does give a smoother delivery of power, but I'm loosing the power on the top end, (about 3 mph at the end of a 1/4 mile).

Cowhand

I'm still running the 181 DV's in mine. If you're planning on going to 370's I'd stick with the 181's. The 191's will obviously flow more, but you'll smoke like a freight train.

I ran the 370's for two weeks with my stock HX35/12. I could hit 1500* in the blink of an eye. Now with the KSB1, I can't hit 1400*. Cruise EGT unloaded is around 750-800 @ 75MPH. Well worth the money IMO, the more I drive it the better I like it.

I've also peaked at 44 PSI on the stock head gasket. I'll just run it til it pops and then o-ring.

I'm thinking of going to a #10 plate as well.

Have you changed the timing at all?