Has anyone ever swapped to a spin on filter like used in the earlier 12valves? Thats what is on any of our tractors at the dairy and they seem quicker, easier, and less messy to deal with than a canister. Ideally something around 15 microns would be nice. Maybe i'm just on a soap box but has anyone done this or thought about it? Thanks pics and writeups are welcome - i couldn't find any others setup like i'm thinking.
TNutcher

 

Genos garage had some Prime-loc filter kits left that do just what you're talking about. From what they said though they are out of production so once its gone its gone!

I too like a spin on filter over a canister. On my truck I'm running the stock canister filter with a 7 micron element then out to a 2 micron spin on filter.

That setup is from Glacier diesel.

They have setups for 2nd gen trucks too that will get you a spin on filter and a spin on fuel water separator if you want.

See www.genosgarage.com
and
www.glacierdieselpower.com

Hope this helps!



ON EDIT: I think I overstepped my knowledge of the Prime-Loc system. Its only available for 12 valvers!

 

sweet that from GPD looks like what I'm thinking about... the price is a little high for what I want to do though, maybe I'll check if NAPA can piece together some numbers and blocks. Where do you have yours mounted? on the frame or in the engine compartment?? thanks a lot
TNutcher

 

Mines in the engine compartment mounted under the stock intake air horn. I don't know if you can mount the 2 micron filter there on a 2nd gen though. Email Richard on Glaciers site and ask him about mounting options. He is extremely helpful!!

 

Check Northern Tool & Equipment (online also). I was there last week serching for the samething and noticed they had the housing and filters. I think $29 for the housing and $8 for the 10micron spin on filter (what is the factory micron rating?). The only question I have is the water sensor and fuel heater necessary? OR one could install the spin-on ahead of the factory canister and leave it? Tired of paying $30 for the canister filters.

 

If you're paying that much for canister filters you're getting ripped. Genosgarage has them for half that price.

 

What Id like is one of those inverted bowl types with the element on top so you can see the restriction level. Youd need to mount it up high somewhere though where you can see it, and its well above the level of the rest of the fuel.

 

Go to Cummins. Buy a remote head, and an FS1000 or 1001 (one is taller you want the shorter). Install big lines. The filters will contian half again more debris, filters 5 micron at mid 90% (factory '99 only does low 80% at 5 mic) an 99% of 10 micron. Head cost me less then $30. Filters are less then $15.

Actually I THINK, not positive, but the FF1000 &FF1001 are the same but without the water seperator. But I have never inquired about the filter ratings on them. The only advantage is about 1" shorter over all. Cummins can give you a the tech line number for Fleetgaurd and they are willing to give you with the info.

This is from a old thread i did. I mounted my hollley blue on the frame rail and then right after that i mounted my two cummins filter bases with fleet gaurd water/fuel and fuel filters. Work's good. But i lost my water in fuel light and fuel heater. I might try and modify that into a filter head for to keep the engine happy. But so far so good.

 

yeah sounds like pretty good setups. I was going to check NAPA to see what filters/blocks they had that would work. yeah thats' what my local auto parts stores charge for filters and I'd rather not buy stuff online, just my preference.

I'd like to filter 2 to 5 microns with at least 85 eff. at that rating. I was planning on putting it down at the frame but don't know if before the FASS HPFP or on its output side (150 model).

I'd like to keep the WIF light and the heater so i guess why not keep the stock filter or maybe just pull it out so it doesn't restrict flow for no reason... idk

Is the factory a sufficient water separator or would a 5 micron with sep. before the pump and a 2 after work best, using the stock simply as a secondary water sep. and a heater??? AHH options!
TNutcher

 

Sounds like mounting it before your fass but keeping your old set up for heater and water sep would work good, as long as fuel isn't held back to much.

 

Well I cross did a little looking and here's what I came up with.
FF5320 = wix 33405 = napa 3405 = $10
FS1212 = wix 33528 = napa 3528 = $10
two filter bases: wix 24770 = napa 4770 = $40

Add in any lines and fittings you need and you should still be able to come in under $100. The setup at the dtr store or glacier uses a different base and a mounting bracket while this one could be mounted directly to the frame =P

 

What about fuel heating?

Jim

 

He doesnt need it in California