simple engine mods
simple engine mods
well this forum is loaded with lots of good info but i'm new to ctd ownership. i'm going to pick up a 95 ram 2500 with a/t around 175,000 miles. i have been reading here about fuel plates and moving them and the starwheel adjustment and so on. i work on fl 70's with both 12v and 24v but i've never turned them up or anything so i'm looking for some guidance. the first thing i'm gonna do is order a pyrometer and boost guages. the second thing i want to do is get more power. basically what could i do without killing the transmission and could i get around 230hp. what would be the easiest way to turn it up without hurting anything in the drivetrain and my wallet. i'm not afraid to spend a couple bucks but i was thinking of waiting till the trans goes to get into injectors and so forth. any help would be greatly appreciated...
yeah i didn't think it would, but i was hoping. the thing is slow into gear anyhow until it warms up. i'm not lookin for crazy hp tho i'm gonna use it for a tow rig. i need to tow 10-12000 pounds and my 95 2500 chevy with an auto is sucking the gas.
a #10 plate either grind it urself from the stock fuel plate, or buy one. Get a BHAF filter, and a 4" exhaust and u should be pretty happy. That plate should put you around ur hp mark, plus it will up ur torque alot
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No it will EXPLODE.
From what I heard a #0 plate fuels even more than a #10 does at low RPMs.
From what I heard a #0 plate fuels even more than a #10 does at low RPMs.
Before you do ANY engine bombs (mods like BHAF and exhaust are fine), put that money into getting a high pressure VB and a low stall TC and then do the plate and GSK, etc. and you'll be in great shape.
like i said i don't want crazy hp just a little more umph when towing. not gonna launch it or anything but i got a gig lined up with 5-6 ton payloads that i wanna pull. i'm in the up of michigan and pulling basically flat to wisconsin and i want to be able to do 60 mph with decent acceleration. there is a couple towns i have to go through and it takes awhile to get the chev goin, but the dodge should be better than that even stock i would think. i was wondering if i moved the fuel plate and adjusted the starwheel would the trans hold or is that a/t too weak.
No it will EXPLODE.
From what I heard a #0 plate fuels even more than a #10 does at low RPMs.
From what I heard a #0 plate fuels even more than a #10 does at low RPMs.
Before you do ANY engine bombs (mods like BHAF and exhaust are fine), put that money into getting a high pressure VB and a low stall TC and then do the plate and GSK, etc. and you'll be in great shape.
Thanks
only thing you will be paying for would be the vb and tc everything else can be done for free unless you pay to have the timing done
Quick cheap and easy fix for you would be a convertor lock up switch. I use one in my 94 with 150k on the original trans. I pull a 24 foot sea ray boat and a 26' fifth wheel with it and i have added some fuel so i can leave it locked In over drive and still climb some good size hills. If you have run up 33 in michigan between fairview and atlanta you will know what i mean. The key to it is to not let the tranny upshift with the hammer down step into it a little in first and second as soon as you get into 3rd lock the convertor step into it and off you go run it up to 45-55 depending on your gear/load then lift and let it shift into OD and off you go again .
You will be suprized how much quicker you will get rolling . Another cheap one is to drop the pan and turn up the line pressure just don't get crazy on an older tranny or it will be rebuild time because you blew out the seals. I will run mine like this untill i need to rebuild it and then i will put in a goerand convertor freshen the internals and get more aggressive with the valve body. The main thing you do not want to do is full throttle or heavy loaded locked shifts.
You will be suprized how much quicker you will get rolling . Another cheap one is to drop the pan and turn up the line pressure just don't get crazy on an older tranny or it will be rebuild time because you blew out the seals. I will run mine like this untill i need to rebuild it and then i will put in a goerand convertor freshen the internals and get more aggressive with the valve body. The main thing you do not want to do is full throttle or heavy loaded locked shifts.


