hee hee hee. now thats a cool idea and the perfect cure for high EGT's -- you only have to measure it once, after which ETGs are no longer an issue

 

More than a few trips down the 1/4 mile with the gauge pegged.

 

wow! you're serious about wanting a gauge that goes higher than 1500? all theories aside, you're certainly running higher than accepted safe levels. of course, for only 1/4 mile...<br><br>But seriously, what would you do with the information (readings) above 1500? I for one would like to know just how high you go (so I understand that part) but would it make you drive any different? <br><br>Westach will make one for you.

 

It wouldn't change the way I drive. Would be interesting to see what max EGT is.

 

[quote author=StakeMan link=board=7;threadid=13431;start=0#129553 date=1050703706]<br>I need an EGT gauge that goes higher than 1500. <br>[/quote]<br><br>You need a window in the hood so when the color of the turbo changes from cherry red to white you know it's time to let off the throttle.

 

I believe the dakota digital will read higher than 1500.<br><br>Tim

 

The Dakota I believe reads to 1650. I've had mine up to 1200 pre on my truck BONE STOCK. With the COMP in COMP mode, 950 PRE. I'm in the process of hooking up a pre/post gauge. I've got the switch for it but I broke a tab on the back of the switch so I have to go and buy another switch. I had it &quot;ghetto&quot; rigged and the switch worked flipping between the two readings. 1 problem though. I couldn't figure out which one was pre and which one was post.

 

Update on the pre/post setup. There is a big difference. Just normal crusing, there is a 200* difference. I haven't tested wide open throttle. Cool down is pretty cool to. They are about the same, but it takes a lot longer to reach 350* post than it does pre. Just thought I'd update yall on the setup.

 

Did a WOT test the other day. There was almost a 500* difference between the two.

 

bingo! what I thought. that 300 degree difference thing does have a huge body of Cummnis research and study behind it, but it applies to stock conditions. Namely, stock boost pressures. so 500 degrees doesn't surprise me. <br><br>Can you tell us what mods you are running and what HP you are acheiving at WOT? <br><br>Just underscoring the need for pre-turbo EGT here. cummins did a pile of work on EGT post turbo and published 950 degrees. Their work was based on a 1250 degree maximum manifold temperature and the correlation between that and 950 was very strong. So the part of the Cummins work that we can depend on is the max pre-turbo manifold temp of 1250. I'm sure that number has some margin in it, or Cummins would not publish it . I know lots of guys have run above that figure but the way I see it -- above 1250 is where you start rolling the dice.

 

How exactly did you run dual egt probes? I know yuo have to have a toggle switch but where exactly did you hook the switch and where did you mount it? Im curious because I plan on running mine the same way .<br> Wheels

 

I put my toggle switch right beside my EGT gauge on the pillar. It's very easy to do. Took me bout an hour to completely run the wire and hook it all up. It's really cool.

 

This is a great approach, and very tempting for me as well! <br><br>Electrically, I don't see any issues here either that would materially affect accuracy, unless you modified the original thermocouple length (from which the device gets its comparison temperature). That is, as long as you use identical, unmodified, complete thermocouples and place the &quot;gauge&quot; end of the wires in the same physical place you'll be fine. The measurement system uses the &quot;cold&quot; end of the thermocouple leads as the reference point so you want to put both the pre and the post reference points in the same place. Make sure all wire segments are identical in length, use the same type of wire, and have the same number and quality of connections.<br><br>The switch itself may introduce some extraordinarily small error, but if you get a good quality switch all will be well. As the switch wears you'll get low and potentially intermittant readings so be sure to get used to how your truck runs and be able to interpret any changes in readings.

 

Well, I didn't use the same length of wire (needed another 6&quot; to reach the turbo manifold), but I did use the same gauge. I didn't modify the thermocouple either. I used a Double Poll Double Throw switch (DPDT) which operates on very low amperage and current. I talked to Dakota Digital directly and they said that that is the correct switch to use. I am very happy with my setup now. I've got an eye on absolutely every little thing that my truck does now. It's nice knowing what everything is doing and how it's working. ;D

 

very cool. well, an extra 6&quot; of wire won't hurt anything, really. If you were doing it over again, I'd add 6&quot; to the other one as well just to be **** about it all. But its really a don't care in this case, as long as the cold (reference) ends of the thermocouple sending units are in the same place (routed together and tie-wrapped).<br><br>now you got me fired up to get another thermocouple for my Westach boost/egt guage. I like the idea of putting in the post turbo one first, just for practice!