heykw

dont feel bad I thought the same thing

HOHN

Meth preignition has nothing to do with injection timing. It has to do with cylinder temps and compression ratio. The meth preignition occurs when the meth lights off before there's any fuel even injected.

jh

marine4life

Ok, Im a little confused then. Doesn't injection timing directly correlate to both cylinder temp and compression ratio. The more the advanced the timing, the higher the cylinder temp and pressure, this would be why water methanol would be better suited to variable timing vice static.

heykw

Is anyone running Nitrous?

marine4life

No laughing gas for me, yet. Not until I oring and stud. Im not even sure if it would be smart for me to run NOS with the Water/Methanol kit, even after studs and oring. Maybe one of the diesel guru's will chime in with some wisdom.

Tate

Add $1k of extras, and you have the price for the full kit. Thats one of the better prices on the BD twins I've seen. I almost bought those actually, but apparently, they weren't expensive enough for me.

Indeed, injection timing does increase cylinder pressure and temps, but so does intake temps and pressure. If you double the intake temps and pressure, you're gonna have a lot more temperature and pressure after you've compressed it tenfold. You may already have surpassed the flash point of the meth, which will cause it to ignite. Still haven't had the fuel injected yet, but you already have ignition.

Big Blue24

Nitrous would help, but not with your currently welded shut wastegate. It would just overspeed your already oversped turbo to the point of explosion. A standard s300g is not gonna keep all of your fuel in normal egts. You are setup just like me, only you have a smaller turbo. You would help out your heat and up your power a bit if you had a functional wastegate. Welding it shut with that small 9cm exhaust housing is a tight choke point for your motor.

Nitrous will most definitely lift your head and blow the headgasket in your situation without some head studs and orings.

You could help out your situation some by buying a used HX 35 with a functional wastegate, but it is not gonna fix the problem.

You really need a HTT 62/71/13-14, some head studs. Or the twins would work nicely with your currently fueling as well.

Big Blue24

If you just want to win in the mud drags, air down those tires and lock up both differentials. You probably can't use more that 400 HP in the mud anyway, unless you run some paddle tires!

somis13

is it true an intercooler from BD or spearco will lower the e.g.t. by like 150*? I read that in the new diesel power magazine. and was considering one

heykw

It is called the mud drags but it is more like a tractor pull type course it is really red clay and yes I did air down my tires

Big Blue24

I recall some "dirt" drags in California where Maddog with his 1000HP+ was getting smoked by 700 HP trucks cause he couldn't get the power to the ground.

You say clay, well then you were ok for traction. But seriously you need a turbo! One of those ATS Aurora 3000's might do the trick. 1215 bucks on ATS's website. Probably 1400 with shipping and downpipe. Ohamaram did 648 HP on the dyno with his CR, so it should cool down your 500 HP worth of fuel. If you want to spend the money, twins would give you faster spoolup and more top end lungs egt wise than any large single turbo out there.

heykw

I would like to get twins but I am on a tight budget about 3K or so

displacedtexan

Can you weld?

heykw

yes I have a mig.

displacedtexan

I prob could have put this with the question but Rip at www.sourceautomotive.biz could hook you up with the stuff to do twins for around $3k, I'd talk to him.