I have been reading posts now for quite some time. The "bombing" bug has really bitten me hard. I think I have spent upwards of $3000 in the last 4 months on my '00 3500. I haul a 40' flatbed with my hotshot business and have seen several posts in other forums that mention drivers hauling upwards of 30K pounds with relative ease by using "Mark Kendrick" compounds. I have searched on the WWW and found nothing. Anyone know anything about this?

 

http://www.texasdieselworks.com/

 

Wildcard3766, If you have any questions on the compounds sold by Mark let me know and I will answer them for you. I will say that if your pulling heavy loads there is no substitute for compounds!

 

I croseed the scales a while back at 27,042# running 80 on the cruise control... I never saw over 1300* preturbo EGT and never downshifted 8) <br><br>But then again I have a set of the Twins you refer too ;D<br><br>What do ya want to know? Here's how my truck is equipped...<br><br>I run 200hp injectors, Compounds, 5&quot; exh, and a 65hp box in street trim. Making around 520-530hp as a daily driver (60 psi of boost)<br><br>On race days I run propane and dual stage NOS... 85+psi of boost. HP? i dunno, the clutch slips when I manage not to spin tires. Hopefully the ATS stage IV tranny will help the ETs and slippage.<br><br>Cmonroe will stomp a knot in my 24v on diesel. ;D I'm working on a fix for that as we speak :P<br><br><br>Later,<br>Mark<br>

 

I had a look at Mark's twins firsthand the other day. They are wicked cool. I am trying to resist the urge right now for adding them to my truck. Give Mark a call. He is a pretty good guy to work with and will treat you right. <br><br>Joe

 

Mark makes some twins, and is about to switch to his second set. He is a ....kinda smart guy. <br><br>There are LOTS of choices for twins, HVAC, Enterprise Engine, and even DTR member J.R. Adkins. <br><br>J.R. is also going to his second set, they will be a LOT bigger then Mark's second set though. <br><br>Andrew

 

If you already have the turbos. How much $$$ would you think it would take to hook them all up and onto the truck??<br>I have been looking at running my stock turbo 16/18housing with a 3HT3b.<br>I have only seen twins up close one time and would never know how to put them together.<br>Thanks<br>DM01

 

dodgeman01 you can buy the piping for under $200 the expensive part is getting some one to weld the stuff off you not to far away from me is you want tot come up and check out the set on the lil red some time George

 

[quote author=cummins express link=board=7;threadid=11097;start=0#108038 date=1046023228]<br>dodgeman01 you can buy the piping for under $200 the expensive part is getting some one to weld the stuff off you not to far away from me is you want tot come up and check out the set on the lil red some time George<br>[/quote]<br>Heck yeah thatd be great. where abouts you live?<br>Aaron

 

I am up in Jamestown straight up 71 around exit 59

 

[quote author=cummins express link=board=7;threadid=11097;start=0#108038 date=1046023228]<br>dodgeman01 you can buy the piping for under $200 the expensive part is getting some one to weld the stuff [/quote]<br><br>He's right, the price is in the labor. The exhaust inlet flanges for the turbos are pretty cheap the bends aren't bad, The outlet flange for the 35 (both sides) are really pricey. the wastegate is VERY pricey as is fitting it on. <br><br>To get it right requires some conisderable fabrication saavy and a significant bit of eqipment.<br><br>I have my tubes TIG welded. the welder itself is a $4000 machine and the guy(s) who use it are pretty amazing.<br><br>Running an HX35/18 would yield decent results but would limit your control over boost pressure and, I believe, be pretty lazy to spool up.<br><br>Adding a large external wastegate allows you to dynamically vary the effective size of your exhaust housing from 9 or 12 ( HY30 or HX35) to 23 or 26 respectively, depending on the size of the wastegate. This gives you the ability to spool really hard out of the hole and breathe well on the top side.<br><br>There's nothin' like having your cake and eating it too ;D<br><br>FWIW,<br>Mark<br>

 

I guess that means I'm going to have to chop of my arm and leg to get a set of twins. Well I beter give ATS a call can't drive a 5spd with a one arm. <br>I have worked woth metal some my friend owns all kinds of welders &quot;His trade&quot; So getting the pipeing or findind out what pipe I should use is what I need to find out. <br>I thought the pipeing would be easy but getting oil to both the turbos would be hard??? <br>DM01

 

There is a 1/8 npt plug on top of the oil filter housing for the feed. the drain .. for a 24v.. is a cummins part($12-15 ). For the 12v you can put a bung on the pan or y into the drain for the HX35.<br><br>The exhaust outlet pipe and clamp are a cummins part($95 worth)... a ~2.75&quot; v band flange with a tight 90* turn. Most turbo shops can get you a replacement back cover for a 35 with the flange instead of the 24v elbow.($50-80 depending on source)<br><br>You will have to make a flange for the HT3B.. 1/2&quot; steel works really well. You can buy flanges for the HX35.. they are disguised as T03 flanges . <br><br>A good wastegate and flanges is a $400 part. The HT3B with outlet flange and clamp should total around $500. The drain is 3/4&quot; npt at the turbo. the oil inlet fitting is a $30 part then you'll need hoses .. -6 JIC on one end back to 1/8npt <br><br>To connect the HT3B outlet to the Hx35 you will need 3 3.5&quot;x3.5&quot;r mandels and a 3.5-4&quot; adapter.<br><br>For the air filter a 4&quot; clay to 4&quot; sch40 adapter from Home depot works well. A 4&quot; mandrel 90* can be sliced and rewelded to allow a K&amp;N to mount and clear the oil filter for the most part.<br> <br>for the downpipe you'll need a couple of 5&quot; 45* mandrels.<br><br>You'll need 3&quot;,3.5&quot;, and 4&quot; hoses to connect it all ($10-12 / ft) and clamps($4-6 ea).<br><br>For ease of istallation and maintenace.. loose the paaenger side battery. A good gelcell will suffice for a single on the otherside. there are some grouds that connect to that batttery.. you need to reground them or the truck won't run<br><br>After you spend a couple of weeks getting the exact parts you think you need then start fabbing it... the 3rd or 4th time you install the turbos , you burn up a few of those parts you had to have shipped in, fit and refit the parts, pay someone to weld them... again you'll understand why most folks 'd rather buy them. : :<br><br>Not meaning to be a smarta$$.. just trying to convey the PITRA it is to do this the first time. Let you know what's involved before you waste time and money you may or maynot have to spare.<br><br>I now have Jigs I have built to fit the tubes on. I also have sourced ALL of the parts and can buy exactly what I need the first time.<br><br>I will gladly tell anyone who wants to know what the need and help them decide what they want to obtain the results they desire. A few will build them. I HOPE most will buy them.<br><br>Call if you want more info or pricing.. 817 343 8666 817 237 6868... www.texasdieselworks.com<br><br>Later,<br>Mark

 

it is great to see, what is really required to make the twins happen. mike

 

Having bought and helped others to build compound and twin turbo setups, I can tell you that Mark's prices are very fair. Also the performance of the compounds are simply shocking. It is alot more than just a days work if you do it right. Also the thing I like about Mark is that he will build them to your spec's. My setup is what is refered to as a tight compound setup. Running an hy-30 9 sq housing as the secondary, and a bht3b 26 sq housing for the primary. No lag required, I can make 14#'s of boost in netural.