Hey, I'm about ready to do something I've never done before. I'll be replacing an HX35 on an '02 CTD ETH/DEE with an HX40/35 hybrid, 12 cm wasted housing to 14 cm non-wasted. I've got a Jacobs exhaust brake, and the 14 housing will mate up nicely, no fitting work, and no exhaust work, I'm told. I'd just like to know if there's anywhere I could go to get the necessary overview, tips, instructions, etc., to make sure I don't miss anything. (Worked on a lot of naturally aspirated gas engines, not much on diesels or with turbochargers.)

Thanks for any help.

 

I've never done a turbo swap on the CTD, but have on my old T/A. I think when you undo the flange on exhaust to down pipe, to tie the exhaust down so it doesn't interfere with the new fit. It will be easier to put the new turbo and exhaust brake in. Soak the bolts with a penetrating fluid and let them sit for a while. They will come out easier. Spray them with brake cleaner and let them dry. Install with a little anti seize.

Mike

 

Parvenu,

The turbo swap is a piece of cake. The hardest parts are fighting with the exhaust downpipe and getting off the oil return line. Before you begin be sure to have a spare turbo gasket, a spare oil return line gasket, and some red RTV silicone. Start by removing the exhaust band clamp and loosen the clamp for the downpipe down under the truck by the bellhousing (getting it loose enough can take some prying & muscle in some cases). The pipe needs enough movement to clear the turbo (a couple of inches is plenty) when you remove/reinstall. Next remove the oil feed line on top of the center section of the turbo. The next trick is remove the oil return line. It is held in with two hex head bolts (10mm if I remember right). The one closer to the engine can only be removed with a wrench, but the one closer to the fender is easily removed with a 3/8" ratchet with a long extension. Once the bolts are out you can let the line hang in its rubber mount below. The last thing is to remove the 15mm nuts from the turbo mount. As mentioned before, penetrating oil can help as they're crazy tight from the factory. Reinstall the turbo in the reverse order. Apply a light coating of red RTV to the oil return line gasket to help seal the leaks. Also, be sure to full the turbo with oil before you reinstall the oil feed line. It will take a lot more if you spin the compressor while you fill the center section with oil. Keep the boost down for ~300 miles and then let 'er rip!

John

 

As Banashe said, make sure you oil the turbo before you fire it up. I also like to use a little nickle anti-seize on the hot side bolting.

 

As long as you oil (WD 40 equivilent(my choice is Kroil)) well in advance for a few days, after the tubo is cool everything should come of without a hitch.
Scott

 

Thanks to all for your responses. Doesn't sound like a bad job, and that side of the CTD is a lot less cluttered than the other side, where I've done most of the work so far.