I have a factory 2001 CTD 24v that I'm look to add some HP to for pulling an 5th wheel RV.

How much HP can I go for I need to look at replacing the factory u-joints, or getting into transmission mods?

I was thinking of bringing it up to between 400 and 500 HP.

 

Auto or manual? Either way, the transmission is the only weak link.

If it's a manual all you'll need is a clutch/flywheel. If it's an auto, you better get out your grocery list...

 

pretty much anything over 275-300 hp and your tranny is on borrowed time.I destroyed my auto with about 325 and my clutch in the other one is gone too with about 350

 

auto - 0 + hp needs upgrades
manual - 50 + hp needs clutch

 

Auto trans.

So if I go to say 475 HP what mod's down stream would I need on the trans etc?

I'm looking for the grocery list without missing any items.

 

To make it easy for you call dave at (563) 778-2719 and he will give you the best complete transmission for the best price you could want

 

Pickupman pretty much got it, but Goerend is the way to go. Our auto's aren't something to have a local mom or pop shop do, or ourselves. Depending on usage (e.g. you ever wanna race or pull) you'll need billet shafts. Otherwise, a heavy-duty rebuild from goerend should set you up nicely.

http://goerend.com/heavyduty.php

 

If your 5er is heavy, you will want a billet input shaft, new torque converter, new valvebody to keep lots of pressure on all the clutch packs, and a deep pan or external cooler to protect your investment.

If you tow really heavy, you will also want a billet intermediate shaft and a fully rebuilt tranny with additional clutches and upgraded apply levers etc.

The bandaid fix for a solid 350 HP towing and 425 Hp racing on a fresh transmission is just a valve body and torque converter. Those two will run 1500 in parts.

 

U-Joints....... not a concern.
Tranny - adding more than 60 hp will hurt it! I have seen an 01 go 50,000 miles at 425 hp with just a DTT Valve Body replacment (about $450.00).
He did not tow.
For towing you will need full rebuild, w/ billet input/output shafts, if above 500 HP.

RJ

 

Depending on the miles on the truck, the intermediate hanger bearing may need replacement. Best done by a driveshaft shop.

 

'Rollcage' - Fill in your signature so we know more info on your truck.
'SR Crewchief' has a point.... if you have a longbed.
Many carrier bearings have needed replacing at 100,000 -125,000 miles. HP level does not seem to make a difference, from my experience.

RJ

 

Thanks for pointing that out...

2001 Dodge 2500 CTD. Quad cab. 8 ft bed. 140 gallon fuel transferflow system. Leveling kit. 315 Toyo MT's. Leer Shell and carpet kit. Front and rear custom bumpers similar to road armor. 12k winch. 355 gears.
135,000 miles
Had it for years.

 

What transmission?

 

2001 factory auto trans with 135k on it.

Long distance hauls, FL to PA and back which is about 1000 miles each way.

 

Wow, my bad. Brain fart. Totally didn't remember you said it up above.

Anyways, valve body and torque converter at a minimum.