Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

Going for 1000+ HP

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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 09:54 PM
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DMAN99's Avatar
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Going for 1000+ HP

Going to build a 1000+ HP out of a 95 2500 with a five speed. Wanting ideas on what to do and what the most reliable mods I can make. Want to be able to pull it and not fix it everytime I know things will break but want it to be somewhat reliable.
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 10:00 PM
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Alot of Money!!!
You need:
Injectors
Turbo(s)
Head work
Head studs
Pistons
Possible new bottom end
Trans.
Lots of pump work!!!!
Lots of pump work!!!!
Bigger fuel lines
Did I mention pump work

Thats just off the top of my head.
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 10:01 PM
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For 1000HP I hope you have a wheelbarrow of money laying around.
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 10:09 PM
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Don't have an ulimited budget so want to do all the work I can myself just having someone else do the pump work and head hoping to do the rest. Just want to build it once so was hoping that 10,000 to 15,000 will do it.
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 10:15 PM
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You need more $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Pump work Industrial Injection $4000
Injectors $1000-$1200
Head work $1000-how far you want to go
Pistons $250x6
Trans. $5000
Turbos twins $5000
There $15000 with no machining to the block.
Also, your rearend will probably grenade itself.
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Old Jul 25, 2007 | 10:35 PM
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know of some guys who just bought a scheids pulling motor that makes 1,000hp at the crank and the motor alone was $25k not including all the tranny, clutch, driveline components needed to handle that power.

You are looking for 3 things, but can only have 2 any way you look at it, Cheap, Powerful, Reliable.
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 04:01 AM
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Go for it! That's what I'm going. Got $15K in parts now not including the tranny. Still haven't made my mind up on which one to get yet. Make sure you get a block griddle for the bottom end. Will stiffen it up pretty good. This has been a 2 year project so far. Has been fun when I do get the time to work on the truck. Ranch creates a lot of work for me. If you want to save money keep a close eye on ebay. Sometimes some GREAT deals pop up. That's where I saved some money. But I paided $$$ for my pump. Should fuel my F1 injectors just fine! Well, good luck!

TC
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 06:52 AM
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the cheapest way to do this would be with nitrous.
a good p pump (probably need about 500-600cc's) a set of street twins (s3/s4) and three stages of nos produced 1200hp with dynomite injectors out on the west coast.

to do it on fuel say by by to 20k plus it will require chargers and motor work that will make the truck undrivable (like s400 hx82 twin setups)
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by getblown5.9
You are looking for 3 things, but can only have 2 any way you look at it, Cheap, Powerful, Reliable.
exactly!

10-15k will only get you around 500 hp and be reliable. But as soon as you go over 700 - 800 hp, no matter what you have done to it, stuff WILL break. Theres no question about it
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 09:11 AM
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wana12v
You can get 800hp on just #2. Just got to know how to setup the engine properly and the fuel system. I've only got 15k in the engine now and I knoe she will make 900hp only #2 only. A lot of research has been involved in my build up (2 years). Just got to talk to MANY people and take to advis they giva and go out and experiment! I have driven an 800+hp 12v and it was VERY streetable. Guy had a velet switch and that seemed to be very useful. Think I'll be installing one.

blackdiesel
I happen to disagree. If built proerly the first time and knowing the limits stuff will not break. However I understand $$$$ comes into play as well.
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Texas Cowboy
blackdiesel
I happen to disagree. If built proerly the first time and knowing the limits stuff will not break. However I understand $$$$ comes into play as well.
go ahead and build an 800hp truck since its so easy and cheap to do, drive it and pull with it for a year then come back and tell us how much stuff broke.
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 10:51 AM
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some people want to talk bad about my ideas and dreams but aren't willing to give ideas. I know it wont be a complete reliable truck I don't need to drive it just want to pull it for a hobby and was wanting to get ideas so I don't do or buy useless stuff.
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by blackdiesel
exactly!

10-15k will only get you around 500 hp and be reliable. But as soon as you go over 700 - 800 hp, no matter what you have done to it, stuff WILL break. Theres no question about it
Even so

on a 12V you can get 500 horses for less and still be reliable and daily drive the truck with many stock components. But again if you are lookin for reliability i see the issue here..

700-800 horses will break stuff, yeah i agree, but again its all in how you drive the truck..

Im also partially in agreement with TxCowboy, 800 horses streetable with a valet tho? how much really did the valet cut the power? I can see 800 horses with nitrous and a valet be streetable, but on all out fuel it dont really convince me.. NOt sayin that it cant be done..

Again, alot of the 12V stuff is all in the tuning, once its setup right, you are golden..

RIck
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 12:33 PM
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TxDiesel like you said. With the correct tuning it can be achieved. I don't know the hp the switch cut. Didn't ask. But Mark tows cows with that truck almost daily and has not had any issues at all. It's a manual and only running on #2 to make that power level. I know he has some lower compression pistons as well. I'm thinking of saving a buck and machining 30-35 thousandths of the top of the stock pistons and get them coated by Swain Tech so they can handle the heat better and lower the compression. If you can get the p-pump, timing, turbo combo, injectors, and air tuned just right can creat some serious power on #2. It does take a LOT of time and R&R. But that's why I've be working on it for 2 years now. Taking my time to get all the research done and numbers chrunched to see what adjustments need to take place. then when the engine is finished by a tranny and start tuning!

DMAN99 not here to knock you plains at all. Wish I lived closer to ya so we could bump heads one on one. I know that PDR or Haisley Machine couuld build you a hella motor. If you want to do it yourself, talk to JetPilot on here or contact him at www.dieselperformancewarehouse He gave me a few good tips on what to do with some things. Also water/meth will help keep EGT's down from what I'm told. Also was told lowewring to compression down to around 13:1 could make so serious power setup with the right equipment.
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Old Jul 26, 2007 | 01:34 PM
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a truck with 13:1 compression would not be able to start without either plus it does not make more power it just make headgaskets stay in place

get us a dyno sheet for your 900hp on a reputable dyno and ill belive you.

35 thousandths off of a stock piston will not lower the compression much probably put you in the mid 16's

my marine pistons have .080 fly cuts for my camshaft and are a factory 15.3:1 piston and they are still in the 14's the are also tcb coated by swain with pc9 skirts and main and rod bearing coatings

on fuel it would probably take a large s300 (66mm) and a big wheel hx60 (in the 80+mm range) or an h5 to make 800hp as well as a 600cc pump

for a thousand it would take a k31 or s400 on top and an hx82 on bottom wich would be much less drivable and staged like that it would make a lot of boost.

all I said was it would be cheaper and easier (much less hard parts to do it on spray)

there are very few trucks making 800+hp and driving on the road especially on fuel, go to any real dyno event (dave dunbar has a really nice dyno) and see for your self. it seems everyone knows how to make 1k hp and make it streetable so im suprised I dont see more of these trucks more often.

call patty and tell her you want a 1000 hp street drivable towable motor at the wheels with 13:1 compression that will start without either in 30* weather
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