My truck is completely stock, with a stock auto trans. The only minor adjustments are stock plate slid foward and star wheel all the way. I have pyro, boost, and trans temp gauges. I want to get to 500 hp. So please list in order of importance what needs to be done to get there.

 

A built transmission, a new plate, twin turbos are a large single, 370 injectors. That should do it.

 

What size plate 10 and what a turbo run

 

I think a #10 but I'm not sure. I'm not a 12 valve guy. As for what turbo. An HT3B or an HX35/Ht3b twin setup. Your gonna need to o-ring the head so you don't blow the head gasket.

 

And a 3K or 4K gov. spring kit

 

Maybe a #100 plate or #0 plate. With twins and 370 injectors. A built tranny will be nessecary to hold the power and is the biggest step in getting you to the 500 mark. After that its all about the air and fuel!

 

How much does a turbo like this run? I dont have enough for twins now. Will a stock trans hold up with a #10 plate and a 3k gsk?

 

if the plate is back from stock just a little....any more than that you risk the converter and or the front clutches, which will take the rest of the trans with it. You could cheat some and raise line pressure a little to help, but there is no replacement for purpose built trans and converter from any of the big 3 or 4....unless you have the tools and ability to build it yourself with hipo parts. You can build 500 with a modified 40 if you cam the engine as well. A bigger turbine housing will help upper end and EGT's, but will cause lag. The cam will give you the lower end back, but they're expensive. Expect $1500 or so for a good single based on an existing casting, more for a complete custom. And twins don't have to be expensive, but the secrets are in the turbine combinations vs compressors, as well as an effective external wastegate. Buy a set and they're 3-4K. Build it yourself and they're down to $1500 or so. For a street set-up, use the 35's compressor and a new turbine housing, and get something like an HT3B with a modified turbine. Numbers are the secret most won't give out!!

Whatever you do, add air before fuel. Doesn't hurt turbos not to spool from lack of fuel, but engines don't like big injectors without the air to burn the fuel. So if you're piecing it together a little at a time.....add air then fuel.

You'd be surprised what you can do by modifying your stock plate, fooling the turbo wastegate, opening up the intake and exhaust and tweaking the timing....most of this is frtee and will satisfy the HP urge while you collect parts for more.

FIRST things FIRST....get the drivetrain up to snuff first, or your HP days will be short while you wait for a new trans.

Chris

 

{Put your truck on the dyno and get a base line. Then governor springs. Then delivery valves. You have the auto. It's a little weak. You will need a larger turbo for heat dissapation and a 4" exhaust. Now for more power. 370 honed injectors and remove the plate. Set the timing at around 26, check the hose clamps and check the HP too. Guess what you'll be looking at?

Who don't agree?

..Preston..

 

I don't agree with removing the plate............you can certainly have 500 hp w/ a #100 plate and much better drivability, smoke and egt control without risking breaking the pin in the pump because there was no plate.........Depending on how the truck is used, you may be lifting a head and blowing out a gasket with 26* timing with 500hp worth of turbo and fuel........cylinder pressures can get very high with that much timing especially if you tow.

I agree that you will need a 3000 GSK and certainly 181 or 191 delivery valves to support honed 370's to fuel to 500 hp.........A Scotty II and 4" exhaust are needed along with a very beefy tranny and converter!

But first, GET GAUGES!!..........I would suggest not running a stock plate too far forward........you tend to end up with more smoke and egt than you do additional power - not worth it, IMO.......you should also block off your wastegate if you run your stock plate forward so you can actually benefit from the extra fuel..........I would suggest grinding your stock plate to a #100 profile (do a search and you should come up with pics and dimensions).

Just my .02

 

I agree with CTD. No plate makes for a smokey ride.

The 180 pump is weak, but yours may already have 181 DV's installed.

Do a 4K gov kit. Keep the timing at 19 degrees with an auto tranny.

A 0, 8 or 100 plate is fine.

B-1 turbo or a variant. Perhaps a HX40 if the budget is tight, but at 500 HP the 40 will have EGT troubles if you dont want anything over 1500.

With a HX40, stock 370's, 4 k gov springs, 215 pump and timing at 18 degrees I made 512 HP.

Don~

 

Will the stock auto tranny hold up with a 100 plate? Whats the difference between a 100 and a 10?

 

You have the lower ramp of the 10 plate but from the valley of the plate up its all flat! I wouldnt think so.. Your tranny would be



Rick

 

Rharveysr has it right!.......The #100 is awesome - a really smooth monster! (I feel like I'm preaching the gospel when I start talking about the #100!) The lock up clutch will be the first to go, then the converter itself.........You must be careful, though.......if you smoke the lock up bad, you can send too much clutch dust through the tranny and burn clutches.........the 1st sign of this is plugged lock up and OD solenoids.......Don't mean to scare you, most people know when they are being too hard on the lock up and back out of it but it is only a matter of time......just be warned: once you get bit by the bomb bug, you better start saving for a tranny and converter!

 

build the tranny to hold the 500hp you want .then build the engine to what you want . dont do it the other way or you will at best smoke some thing in side it at worst break a shaft and maybe the case .