??? A couple of quickes here. I just got three AutoMeter Ultralites. I can do the pyro, as for the FP and Tranny Temp gauges. Do I need to tee the fuel line befor the filter before going into the isolator or is there an easier way. And where is the best place to mount the tranny temp probe. Do I need to put it in the pan or in a line as well. I am sure this has been asked a million times, but my searches came up pretty slim, due to my ignorance with searching probably.<br><br>Thanks <br><br>Cole

 

Contractor:
I have Autometer Ultralites. The trans temp sensor was more difficult than the fuel pressure. Auto meter has a kit to mount in the cooling line, but they only have 5/16&quot; and 3/8&quot; kits. I think you need at least 1/2&quot;. My solution was to take the transmission pan off and drill a hole the size of the provided brass fitting ( on the side facing the rear of the truck) and braised the fitting (using a bronze rod with flux) to the pan making sure there were no visible spaces around the fitting. I then re-threaded the fitting, buffed the weld, and screwed the sensor in using teflon thread tape. The transmission gasket was really heavy duty and was reusable.
My fuel pressure guage line is attached to the fuel pump. On my pump there are two fittings. The one on the right has a valve stem in it and needs to be removed. Remove the fitting. A small amount of fuel will run out but it will stop. I removed the valve stem and replace the fitting. The braided hose for the isolator will fit the replaced fitting and attach to the top of the isolator. Attach the braided hose from the guage to the bottom of the isolator. You will need to prime the fuel system. I'm stating what I did on my 2002 Auto. Good Luck!

 

Contractor:
Here is the isolator pic.

 

Contractor:
Here is trans temp sensor pic.

 

My Auto tranny temp sender is installed using a Dodge Tranny temp line fron a '95 (I think) model year. Cost approx $90.<br>This line is a direct replacement, fits multiple years, and incorporates a fitting to screw the sender in with no cutting and splicing involved.

 

Like Shovelhead said the tranny cooler out line is the best place for the temp sender...the out cooler line carry's the hottest fluids which is what you want to watch...in the pan senders are reading a diluted fuild temp becaues the cooled fluid has been returned to the pan causing a reduced temp of the fluids<br><br>Look under your truck at the cooler lines you may have a port in the line with a plug in it...its only the 47RH trannys that use the port for a temp sensor...but all lines should have a port since they are interchangeable with all model years

 

I added the Mopar deep trans pan which has a threaded port for the sending unit. You can also use the Mag Hytec pan. This way you get more fluid and a port for the sending unit.

 

Thank you guys for your help. I got the gauges in yesterday and all of the hoses and wires down to the inside firewall. There is a hole in the firewall already with a bushing in it, probably for a clutch. I can route all of this through there. I should be able to get it all hooked up today. Thanks a ton for the help. It is sure nice to have this resource.

Cole

 

I forgot. I looked under my truck and didn't see any ports on either cooler line, but there is a plug in the tranny housing above one of the lines. I am not sure which line is the outgoing line. Any ideas. <br><br>mcevins: Did that fitting for the fuel sender go on the lift pump. Or the injection Pump. <br><br>Thanks again.<br><br>Cole

 

Contractor,
The fitting went on the injecton pump. It goes in the inlet feed. The 2001 may have a two piece fitting. That should make it much easier to mount the hose to the isolator. They went to the one piece fitting in later 2002 models. Good luck.

 

Contractor,<br> I mounted my guage in the opening in the dash. I already have boost, trans temp, and boost on the A pillar.

 

I looked into going back to all analog gauges and I noticed that on the Isolator, summit says that you have to run braided line with this setup. Does the kit come with enough braided line to hook it all up in the cab on the pillar, or do you need to buy the extra line and fittings? Also, how much did yall pay for the gauge, isolator, and any other various fittings? Where did yall get your's from? I've got Geno's high flow banjo bolts. Does the fitting that comes with the isolator replace that one or does it screw in like every other FP gauge?

 

BigBlue,<br><br>I got my AutoMeter Ultralites at Summit also. The 0-15 gauge with isolater was $ 115.00. It came with the braided line from the isolator to the gauge already hooked to the gauge and plugged to keep the antifreeze/water solution in it. You will need about 2 ft of -4an line to go from the isolator to the inlet on the VP-44 from filter. There is a schreader fitting valve on that banjo. Remove the core and screw your line to it. Don't forget to prime the fuel system after to get it started. The extra line and female fittings were about $ 20 from a local speed shop, but you can order the line pre-made from summit I'm sure for less.<br><br>Cole

 

So the tapped high flow banjo that I have in there now would have to be replaced with the stock banjo with the male schrader fitting on it, right?

 

BigBlue,<br><br>You could either replace that fitting or have a -4an hose made up with one female end for the isolator, and one with a male end to thread into your tapped banjo. Heck, you probably could just thread a nipple into the banjo and use females on both ends. BTW, I am describing what you need for the Autometer Ultralite gauge with Isolator. I can't say this will be the case for other FP gauges. You don't want that Schreader valve core in the fitting anyway<br><br><br>Cole