Just picked this truck up....



94 12 valve. Fully loaded with a 5 speed.

I am looking to add some bolt on upgrades.

First off what HP and Torque ratings do the 94's have?

How well do BD Diesel Fuel Stop Plates work? The summit racing catalogue says the BD stop plate will take my CTD to 230 HP and 605 TQ? I am not trying to have the fastest CTD in town. Just want to give it more power for the street and towing.... Thanks guys...

Dave

 

Can a moderator please put this in the appropiate section.

 

Put a TST #6 plate in there, youll be smokin. 250/635 with the plate. Id look into some guages boost/EGT and a bhaf if I were towing. I believe your rig starts at 175hp and 4 hundred something tq. Jim

 

Well

Welcome to DTR first of all! Anyways, congrats on actually getting a 12V engine they are easy to work on, EASY TO BOMB, and yours starts off at 175 hp and 420 TQ.

to get more power out of your truck the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix.

A governers spring kit, Reffered to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow powerband from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governer arm adjustment and your plate positioning. A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100 (PM northslope for wicked work! ) and a zero plate. Piers Diesel Research and Hot Rod Diesels have them for the same price, The fuel plate... here is my explanation....

Torque plates.... ok this is a torque plate right here... https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...=500&page=1

More commonly reffered to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flatt plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The one you see there is my banks plate, screwy yes, i know, i dont get it myself. that plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and u loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flatt, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real PITA to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

Which one is right for you.. id say the ten if you are not gonna be that aggressive with it, but the 100 is downright WICKED!! that be the one to go with, the zero is just too much at the low end for me but for dynos and racin, its awesome!.. The zero, PM Northslope AWESOME AWESOME WORK, and ull be helpin out a fellow DTR member, and the zero plate you can grind yourself, well you can do either or, but PM northslope do a search for plate grinding, started by gunracer1.. good instructions..

Either ways, you are going to need a clutch if you are going to play hard, in most cases if you just want a modest power gain, just get a 10 plate, set it a lil bit forward, and a GSK will wake up your truck. In the stock position its easily drivable and fun as well.

Best of luck and hope that this helps..

Tx

 

Thanks for the input guys. I am not trying to take my truck over the top. Just want some modest gains that will work with my stock clutch. Any links to the parts you recommended. The link you had in your post is not working......

 

Sure...

thats how it starts LOL!! i was originally looking for 350 rwhp and 750 rwtq.. Seems i have that TQ, but im lower on horses...with my current setup... I added a zero plate and that all changed he he he he he he..

Look in my photo gallery, look for Banks Plate..


Tx

 

How would the #8 plate do with my stock clutch??? BD says that is will be fine with the stock clutch. BD also says the #6 will not do well with a stock manual clutch.....

#8 here I come....... What is the install on this plate?? 1/2 hour?? 1 hour??

I appreciate the help Tx.....

 

Well what is reccommended is usually

just for to cover their own behinds. Technically, youll have to admit and ull see when you start BOMBing your truck, it gets fun to drive and you are harder on it. The number six will not destroy your stock clutch overnight. It will make it slip if you get on it excessively, its like me running a 100 plate or a zero plate full forward and gunning it constantly. If im easy on it, it will last longer, if not, heck even my banks plate full forward seems to slip my clutch. so i just try to drive it easy..

Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. If you read my literal "dissertation" of a post hehehehehehe. it tells u the procedure on how to do it. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.

The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown soleniod (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those ull notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move teh shutdown soleniod out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..

When you are in there its simple adjustment, u just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. If you dont have gauges, dont set it full forward, If you do have gauges set it forward for a 30 or so rwhp increase!

Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it.PS having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS...

best of luck! and you are welcomed...

Tx

 

My cousin drives a 94 with a 5-speed. We ground his plate to a #10 and added a 3gsk. After sliding the plate about .1 forward from stock he loves it. He has 250,000 + miles on his stock clutch and it is holding well. You will need gages, but the differance in driving with these mods versus stock is UNREAL. Take a look at piersdiesel.com, they have good prices and a special on a plate and 3gsk package. Also look into tstproducts.com, they are good as well and have free shipping on orders over $100..


good luck and post back with your results.

 

Just got the truck out the paint shop. Paint is exact match for factory.. No molding or badges yet.










Dave

 

Sweet. Like the color(check my gallery ), but my paint is getting kinda bad and the cab is lsightly different colored fromt he bed where they didnt paint the bed when the guy ran into a garbage truck. I would like to get mine painted back original someday though. It looks sweet. Just go ahead and go with a #5, and slide it back,s o that when you get a better clutch, you can slide her forward, and have some juice. Anyways. Nice truck!

Eric

 

So can I run a #6 in the farthest position back and still drive with my stock clutch?? I will have to tow my trailer ( 8,500 lbs loaded ). I am concerned with clutch slippage. Also does anyone have directions on installing the plate. And also directions on timing adjustment?? Thanks.....

 

Order the TST plate kit

it comes with some really good instructions...

But here you go for instructions for plate install:

http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf


And timing adjustment...

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm



Try dodgeram.org, and the diesel section youll find lotsa goodies there, your stock clutch will hold the six in the farthest back position easy. Heck it holds my banks full forward and its similar to your six... It barely holds it but it does he he he he he hope these help...

Tx

 

A #6 will be fine. Just set it pretty centered in the pump, and that should be fine for EGT's, towing, and your clutch. You shouldnt slip it if its in the middle.

Eric

 

Get #10 and run it back a little from the stock position till you need a clutch.
This way you won't have to buy a new plate once your clutch is upgraded.