ramlovingvet

Can the FASS Pump be mounted on the frame near the tank? and can I leave the old LP in place?
Thanks.

crobtex

Yes and yes.

The FASS is supposed to be mounted on the frame/bed braces back near the tank. I left my FP in place and covered the ends of the lines with plastic bags and tie wraps. It took a couple of days for all the fuel to drain from the old lines, but now it's all clean and you never know they are there.

ramlovingvet

You didnt use the existing line?
Also did you go with the 95 gph or 150 gph pump?
Thank you

micah

I did the same. FASS on frame next to tank, left the LP in place. Covered old hose ends.

the FASS comes with new fuel hose and fittings for at the tank and the pump. I chose to run through the stock filter because 1. I could keep my FP gauge as it was already tapped, and 2. I figured added filtration can't hurt, right?

crobtex

My kit (95 gpm FASS II) came with the bigger line (3/8th hose I think) and all the connections. I also went ahead and ordered the bigger line that goes between the fuel filter and the VP44. If you have some kind of damper material, put it between the brackets and the frame/bed and it will cut down on the whine from the FASS pump. Some are louder then others, and mine is pretty loud.

micah

is there a kit already put together for the hose/fittings that run from the stock filter to the vp44? where did you get it? were you able to keep your fp gauge tapped at the vp44... or is your's somewhere else?

crobtex

I'm not sure where it came from. I got it from Diesel Dan. I don't know if he just ordered the parts or what.............

Try some of the vendors here on DTR. I think there is more then one "big line kit" offered.

Mine is tapped on the outlet side of the fuel filter.....on top. I don't remember who it is, but someone on here has a good pic of the setup, complete with the needle valve to control the pressure to the gage.

crobtex

This is a pic of how Shovelhead plumbed the needle valve and FP gage line to the top of the filter housing.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...cat=500&page=1

RowJ

FP gauge tapped at VP-44 is not best place.... tends to destroy gauges due to pulsing/vibration from pump.
Better on top of fuel filter or, even better IMO, in line between FASS (or filter) + VP-44... at least 18" away. Eliminates engine vibration.

You have a FASS with your fuel filter intact?? Or are you refering to the HPFP (incorrectly called FASS II)?

RJ

micah

I have a FASS (NOT the FASS pump minus filters)... I kept the stock filter inline. I figured the worst that could happen is less pressure, but at 20psi idle and 16psi WOT, i think i'm alright...

I guess I figured a reading right at the IP would be most accurate to tell me what the IP is seeing. If I go to a big line between the stock filter to the VP44 I'll also look into moving the FP reading back to the filter. Would you say its best to read before or after the filter? after seems like it would be better, to me.

am I way off?

Geico266

I agree post filter is better.

I have an issue with your leaving the stock filter on though. I might be wrong (would be first time in 15 years) but the FASS removes air from the fuel. The stock filter set up may be adding air back into your fuel? I guess after awhile all the air would be gone.

Just a thought.

NavyChief

I left my stock filter housing in place but there is no filter in the can. I already had a Vulcan big ling kit in place and the gage was already plumbed a foot from the 44, so I left the big lines alone from the filter housing to the 44 and ran the new FASS line up to the filter housing. No additional arena to entertain air to thew system, and my gage plumbing stayed in place! My unit is on the outside of the frame rail, just forward of the duals, and as far as i am concerned after 5 LP's it is truly the schiznits!!!!!!!!!
R/
Eric

Diesel-Dan

Conversion kit part number for between the filter and VP: BBRK-1001

Micah......Honestly you do not need to use your stock filter. Just one more added restriction (your fuel pressure drop from 20 indicates this). You can do what NavyCheif did and take the filter out...but he used it for the fuel heater......you will not need that one bit! I would just plumb it in to the VP and be done. The FASS filters do a dandy job of catching anything that gets sucked up! Down to 3-10 Microns! ALWAYS read Post filter with gauges. AND as close to the VP-44 without being too close...........like RJ mentioned.

ramlovingvet: Check out our web site www.dieselpp.com It has install instructions on there you can read to see whats involved and whats included. You pretty much get everything but the zip ties and tools!

You could mount the FASS pretty much anywhere on the truck! That motor would suck a watermellon through that 3/8" line! haha......BUT due to size constaints....its works better on the frame rail where the kits tells you to stick it!

micah

so call me dense... i'm just trying to figure out where to tap for the gauge. I had a bolt that came with the gauge that replaced the stock banjo. if I run the fass fittings into the vp44 as designed, I lose that tap. I guess it makes sense to bypass the stock filter... would it be simplest to just remove the filter, get the kit BBRK-1001 you mention above (DPP part number?)... and would that allow me to keep the FP gauge tied in there?

greenworks

Dan does removing the filter reduce the fuel heating capability of the stock canister, I leave a filter in being I thought it might, but if it doesn't next change it will stay out.

Jason