Herb;

I'm using a Jacobs E-brake on my truck. The previous posts kinda sum it up for price. My brake was purchased from Mechanicsville Dodge in Virginia via a phone call. $ 575.00. I had it installed by a Dodge Dealer for $ 130.00. Took about 55 minutes. Yours will be more expensive with the lock up controller for the auto tranny. Can't give you a price. Mechanicsville Dodge was the cheapest of the 10 phone calls I made finding one. Now, thats been some time ago and I'm sure prices have gone up.

Check with your Dodge Dealer and see if they have one to fit your vehicle. The one I have has a Dodge Part Number on it.

My last brake job lasted 90,000 miles using Warner Heavy Duty Severe Service Pads.
The pads still had .250" left with exception of one that had .125" on it. That was the inside right front pad. The caliper was sticking. Replaced, rotors, pads and calipers. The pads were good, it was the caliper that caused the problem. The rotors had some wear. I could not reuse them because I had them turned when I went to the Warner Pads at 55,000 miles. I now have 148K on the truck.

I'm sure the E-Brake contrubuted to the life of the brake system. I clean the IAT Sensor once every 15,000 miles. I used a spray can of starting fluid to clean it. Looks like new when done.

Dave

 

all seems well but i have never used or been in a truck equipped with a system. with no working knowledge of how they work and the advantages or disadvantages of them i am just seeking information.
someone said that they had never had to change brakes on their truck---that is a pretty convincing statement as to their value.

 

Well then, My truck just clicked over 330K and I have had the front rotors turned once and the pads have been changed 3 times. The rear has been turned once and shoes replaced once. I use my US Gear de-celerator all the time.

..Preston..

 

Herb,
I just bought a new BD exhaust brake from a Northwest Bomber member in Seattle two weeks ago and installed it myself. Today I just hooked up a mistery switch (to lock the TC manually) and wow it really slows me down even on level ground, and I also went down a 10% grade in 3rd and it kept slowing down from 50 to 30 miles (empty). Now I have to install 60# exhuast springs to complete my system.
BTW I think the guy still has another brake for sale $650
Can't wait to go camping.

Howard

 

bit the bullet and bought a jacob / called ATS and they said would work well with my tranny and triplelock convertor

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...BSAA%3AUS%3A11

 

If you tow in hilly areas the exhaust brake is very much worth it! Not much use across the midwest, but in the rockies a necessity. Get a newer one that works at lower rpm's. They have built in wastegate.
Rick


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That's a good brake, but it's the old style! It has the hole in the butterfly and works best at high rpms. That's why it's a few $$ cheaper. The new style with the wastegate works a lot better with an auto, but of coarse it's more $$. Make sure you get a controller to lock up your TC.
Rick

 

US Gear Decelerator, i drove one recently on a truck with an HX40, for a setup with a bigger down pip ena doutlet the inline brake works just as well as my old pac brake.

I'll be doing one after i get to dialing in my 12v.

 

Speaking of which, did you try a test drive with the AFC housing removed to see if there was any difference in power?

Sorry for the hijack.....just curious.