banks twinram

yep, i did it, i took the springs out of my governor housing and stacked a few grade 8 5-1/6 washers in there and viola, governless motor. the problem now is that i am scurd to run it like that. i think i am going to find some tighter springs somewhere at the hardware store or just stack washers under the little spring till i get the tention right. i just thought about using a spring out of an old oxygen regulator and cutting it to length, regulators have all different kinds of springs in them and i might be able to find one that will work pretty good for me. and another thing, i just recently pulled the injection pump off to fix an oil leak that i had, and when i put the pump back on, i had the timing just about perfect the first time, but i forgot to clean all the oil off the shaft before i tightened the nut up, and it slipped timing after about 30 seconds after it started..... bummer.and now i got it running again and the throttle response seems sluggish, there is white smoke at any rpm, gets worse as rpm's increase, but it does not spit and sputter at any rpm. when you snap the throttle to blow black smoke, the smoke comes out grey-dark grey where as before it had awesome throttle response, would idle with just a LITTLE very little white haze, it would spit, sputter, and blow some white smoke at 2500+ rpm, if you snapped the throttle to blow black smoke, it would come out thick and black. i think the latter description was not enough timing like 10# or so and now it has too much like 20# or so. i am not sure how a motor should sound with that much timing, but someone please tell me if you can make any sense out of my descriptions i have not yet driven the truck like this, but it does not sound right to me so i am just idling around the yard till i fix the governor better and the timing right. it is a very bad idea to put washers in where the governor springs are, very very bad idea. i do not suggest trying it, because any yahoo that ever slips through the cracks and somehow manages to get to drive your truck could blow it wide open within about 10 seconds after startup. BAD ideaand the throttle is super touchy. i will keep ya'll updted

mr T

i am so confused reading your post and its not the 3 beers i just had...so ur timing varies between 10 degrees and 20 degrees? ...and ur currently running NO governor springs?...did i get that right?...please do keep us posted because i wanna know what the hardware store springs will produce

(i mean no offense...dont get me wrong)

gunracer1

i have been planing to put a single 5/16ths washer under the metal spacer on the govoner springs. i bet it will give me the rpm i want, and cheap too. my truck runs to 4800 or so know without the washer so i really don't need anymore. but my wifes could use some more rpm. i have been talking about doing it for a long time, just haven't got off my but and did it. glade to here ya stepped up and did alittle r&d work.

banks twinram

no, my timing does not vary, i am trying to figure out how the motor will run with too much-too little timing. i can't figure out for sure if i am running too much timing, but i think i am because it does not pop-sputter at high rpm's but still blows hella white smoke. i am going to slow the timing down 5#'s and see how it runs there, if it still dont run right, i will go 5 more and see if its progressively worse or better... i wish i had one of them timing light things, it would make it a lot simpler.and that is correct, i am running with no governor at the moment. i got another question, why do you need #60 valve springs to run 4,000?? do the float or what?? would they float worse with or w/o boost or would it be the same either way?

condensr

4800 RPMs? Is that a typo?

gunracer1

you need the 60# springs to run over 3500 rpm, they will float with the boost. and 4800 is not a typo.

banks twinram

the guy at the shop that rebuilt my engine told me that he put "turbo valve spring" in the motor, but he kept on asking me if i had a turbo on this motor like he didn't know much of anything about a diesel. then i asked him if the valve srings would hold up to about 4,000 rpms and all he said was that the "turbo" valvesprings should not be a problem while running 4,000 rpm's but is there any way to really tell if the springs he put in the motor is #60's or not??? what does 60 mean?? does it take 60 pounds to mash them down??? can you tell a big difference between stock and 60's just by mashing them down by hand?? i have the old ones, i guess i will just compare them and see. i did notice that these springs were easy to push down compared to my 454.. i wouldn't want to run my motor to 4800 rpm, but i did just spend $3,500 gettin it rebuilt.

gunracer1

the 60# springs are about 3/4 of a inch taller than the stock springs when the are side by side. i will see if i can get some measurement, i have some 60's and stock at the house.