Alright folks, gonna order the Isspro kit from Diesel Manor. But first I need some input from y'all.
'99 24v 5spd Mods: Drop-in K&N, Superchips D-Box, & straight pipe
1. Should I get the 30, 40 or 60 lb boost gauge?
2. They also have a big line 3/8" kit that I guess goes between the lift pump and injection pump. Is that gonna help things any?
3. What is an acceptable degree on the pyro for a slightly modified motor?
4. Whats the easiest way to tell if the silencer ring is MIA?
5. What mods should I look into next?

Thanks, Vern

 

1. Get the 60 LB guage, you'll probably never need it, but it gives you room to grow.
2. Any improvement to the fuel system on a 24v is a good thing.
3. 1250 deg. is the standard answer, short burst above that won't hurt anything, sustained temps above that will do bad stuff to your motor.
4. Remove the air intake tube to the turbo, when you look inside the turbo inlet if you see one opening (large circle) the ring is still there, if you see two opening (large circle opening, cast in metal ring, then another circle surrounding the first) then the ring is gone.
5. Better lift pump, if your stocker is weak, exhaust and intake, then a mild box like an EZ or VanAaken (depending on your overall goals, you may want a more serious box and/or injectors)

 

1. 60
2. couldn't hurt
3. 1350 is max for extended periods of time.
4. Pull the hose of the front of the turbo and see if it MIA, it the piece behind the snap ring.
5. Depends on what you want to do with the truck.
6. Welcome to DTR!

 

Thanks for the input. I plan on using this as my daily driver and towing a U-haul to Ft. Cambell when I PCS. Got another question. The brass 90 degree fitting on the turbo that the rubber wastegate hose goes to, I seen one on a site that claims to provide 50% more boost off idle. Anyone using this or has heard about it?

 

That's probably an adjustable boost elbow. It allows the wategate to open at a higher boost level. The trick is to have a boost fooler so the ECM doesn't set an over-boost code and to have the fuel to make the extra boost. A box like and Edge Ez will cover all the bases including the elbow.

 

So if I remove the Superchips D-Box and install an Edge EZ It would be worth the money? The D-Box is said to have a 65hp/160trq increase. Compared to the EZ of 65hp/185trq. I see there is an Edge EZ Comp, what kind of gains could be expected from the D-Box to the EZ Comp?

 

Welcome to the site. You will find lots of helpful people here and lots of good info. My cousin has the EZ on his 02 and he loves it. When I had a 24valve I did pretty much like I did on my 3rd gen, I tried everything. Of course i am always going for bigger power and still want to be able to drive it everyday. I know quite a few people who are running their 24s at 500+ HP and the drive the heck out of them. Remember as long as you have an electronic engine you can always dile the power down. Also remember the more power the more you have to build up you truck(turbos,manifolds,trannys,drive shafts,injection pumps and so on) but dont worry it does finally end as long as when you do upgrade you do it with good quality parts. Main things are 1)Intake 2)Exhaust 3)Gauges 4)Pumps (lift&injection0 5) Tranny. after all of that you should be ready to rock and roll with just about anything you can dish at it. Good luck and again welcome to the site

 

I'm not sure about the D-Box? Maybe it's an EZ box re-badged for Superchips? The comp. will had around 120hp peak.

I would think about how much HP you want and then members can give their personal formula and provide their background experiences.

I bought my truck with around 38,000 miles back in 03. It's been bombed for the better part of the time I've owned it. I now have 142,000 miles. My goal was to have a truck that will run a decent 1/4 time and still be drivable everyday while maintaining the ability to tow. I'm there.

 

I researched the D-Box and it was what Superchips put out before the handheld plug-tune-unplug tuner. My goal for this truck is the same as Mike D. Only I'd be happy running 14s in the 1/4. What parts would be needed for this?

 

You would probably need to be around the same hp level I'm at to run 14's.

To get 500hp you'll need to select the appropriate injectors, fueling box and of course a turbo.

You'll also need a clutch capable of holding that power. I would consider nothing less than a double disk. A friend of mine went though the growing pains of finding the right clutch and went through 2 different clutches setups before going for the heavy plate load double disk by Southbend.

You can look at my sig. to see what I've done to hit 500hp. Look around on the site and check out what others have done as well.

 

5spd will never be fast in a 1/4 mile. You will need 500 HP to get into the 14's whereas only 350 is needed for 14's with an auto.

 

I always thought that an auto needed more power because of how it works. Not the other way around.

 

An auto flawlessly shifts, maintains boost=power on a CTD throughout the 1/4mile run and auto's can be launched with 20psi boost with the correct internal upgrades whereas a manual will never hold traction with more than 7 psi at launch. A manual will never achieve low 60' times like an auto will. Now a 30mph roll on race is a different story, I've spanked guys running 500 HP with my slow work truck in a roll on race.

IMO something about a slushy auto tranny that sticks to the drag strip better at takeoff, and something about a harsh feramic clutch that just bites and spins tires in a manual. Now there are some guys in the 12's with a manual, but they always require more HP to achieve the same 1/4 mile times.

 

You can't change gears as fast as a set up auto. Just my opinion.

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