Has anyone relocated their batteries, if so, to where and why did you do it,what size cable did you use and any problems so far.

 

I welded up a holder for a fellow that relocated his batteries to passenger side frame under the bed.
He used two redtop Optimas (truly 100% maintenance free) and 2/0 welding cable with crimp on connectors to complete the install. Also used flat braided type grounding strap right at the batteries.
This was at least five years ago, he hasn't complained and I know him well enough that he certainly would if there was the slightest problem.

I wouldn't even consider this location with a battery that causes corrosion or needs to be topped up.

 

Was it inside or outside frame,did they hang below frame,thanks for replying,anyone else?

 

Inside and a few inches below the frame but not nearly as much as the fuel tank hangs down. I felt they were very well protected. Thought that mud might build up on top of them but my friend says no.

 

Do you have any pics of the install?

 

No, sorry. The truck is a few hundred miles away for the summer and the owner isn't computer savvy, certain he doesn't own a digital camera.

What was more impressive than the battery relocation itself was the amount of space under the hood that was freed up. The owner used the space for an air intake to the front of the truck, a bypass oil filter and water/meth injection system. Still room to spare.

 

Exactly where did he put the batterys,under the door,under the the box, was it a short box, quad cab, you said a ground strap was used,did he ground it to the frame right at the batterys or run it up to the engine, please tell us all.

 

Did he run posts up to the front incase he needs to jump?

 

The cable connectors were eyes, crimped on with a hydraulic crimper at the welding shop where he bought the cable. He also had two short cables with eyes made up to jump between the two batteries. The battery post connectors were the kind made to have an eye bolted on. One battery ground had the strap to the frame right at the battery box, the other battery's ground ran up to the bolt where the ground from the stock cable connected to the engine. The positive ran directly to the starter, the old cable was left intact and connected to power the underhood connections. Basically the stock battery clamp became a connector for the wires, you could also use it to jump start. We slipped a short section of 1-1/4" poly hose over the clamp now connector to keep it from shorting out to ground. Same thing was done on the pass side battery clamp rather than remove the entire cable, just in case he wanted to switch it back over.

The battery box is under the long bed, tons of room on the pass side. It is made from 1/4" plate and held to the frame by two long 1/2" bolts that go clear though the frame. One hole was already there, had to drill the other. The side of the box facing the drive shaft is open, batteries slide out sideways. They are held down with generic rectangular autoparts tie-downs. Due to lack of clearance on top of the batteries the tie down bolts with hooked ends that came with the holders were replaced with all-thread.

Wow, picture sure would have been easier than all that

 

Many thanks to you Infidel for the rundown,your words are as good as a picture.