Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for second generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories.

automatic grid heaters no more pluging in!!!!

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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 10:23 AM
  #16  
LanceD's Avatar
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From: Albuquerque, NM
I thought using Ether on our engines was a nono?
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 10:32 AM
  #17  
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From: Bucks county PA
From what I understand it is. It can cause uncontrolled combustion and a "runaway" motor that just revs untill it goes.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 10:45 AM
  #18  
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From: Montana
is just too early in the morning or does anyone see what I'm seeing?
Both of 5875's posts are very confusing to me also. Still trying to figure out if he's running all his construction equipment and the block heater off of one battery without a charger.

A buddy tried the same thing with an inverter and a very good sized battery to run the block heater. Battery was totally dead in about 45 minutes.

I thought using Ether on our engines was a nono?
You can safely use either to start a CTD as long as the grid heaters are disconnected. What you want to avoid is the grids setting off the either before it gets into the cylinders.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 10:51 AM
  #19  
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From: Stillwater, OK
Originally Posted by infidel
A buddy tried the same thing with an inverter and a very good sized battery to run the block heater. Battery was totally dead in about 45 minutes.


You can safely use either to start a CTD as long as the grid heaters are disconnected. What you want to avoid is the grids setting off the either before it gets into the cylinders.
Point 1, that is what I thought would happen

Point 2, YES. BOOMMMM!!!!
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 07:57 AM
  #20  
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From: Stillwater, OK
FYI

I had to try my new watt/current meter last night and found my block heater pulls 6.0 amps at 725 watts. This might help in your calculations.
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 12:14 PM
  #21  
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Nice!!!

I love the power of inovation. Its the reason we get to drive anything at all.

Jim
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 12:44 PM
  #22  
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From: Plano, TX
Originally Posted by Captain
From what I understand it is. It can cause uncontrolled combustion and a "runaway" motor that just revs untill it goes.
Maybe if you use 2 cans worth in one dose! haha.....Like mentioned, disable the heater grids and use ONLY AS MUCH AS IT TAKES and you should be fine.

This is an interesting concept......Title should be changed from Grid heater to block heater.....
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 05:27 PM
  #23  
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From: Walden, NY
Originally Posted by Captain
if your running 15-40 oil your not suposed to start your truck if the oil is below 10 degrees. At 0 degrees with the block heater pluged in your oil is only 14degrees. At below 0 I put a magnetic heater on the oil pan as well as having the block heater. will it start up ok with thick oil? sure it will. Will you spin or scuff your bearings? eventually. Its not such a bad idea if your in places where you need to keep your oil warmer and cant always plug in. You only need to run your block heater 1hour prier to starting according to the manuals. I think it draws 700watt? You probbaly want a duel purpose battery as you wont be draining it compleetly all the time and deep cycles as I understand only like to be charged when dead/near dead and regular batteries cant take that kind of a hit. think (but dont nessasirly get) optima yellow top. Thats a duel purpose battery. Lots of brands though so look around. A easyer way you might want to think about going is 5-40 oil. thats good to start down to -20degrees F. unfortuantly I can only find it in synthetic so far by rotella and its twice as much per gallon as regular rotella 15-40 I use.
Good luck!
Chris

One or 2 oil changes a yr with Rotella T syn instead of reg rotella will cost an additional 50 dollars,at the most!MUCH less than going thru all the hassles of this project,and the cost.And the engine will last longer,and get oil faster.The invertor will not last long,they like 14 Volts much better than 11.5-12V that a cold battery thats being discharged will provide.The batts will quickly be run down,in a matter of a few hrs at the most.I plow snow,and cant take a chance on the truck not starting,so I run the rotella syn all yr,the Cummins starts easily below zero,in NY,and i have a .020 thicker head gasket. If you gotta plug it in, Id get this instead,it will last longer,and is has many uses. http://www.hondapowerequipment.com/eu1000.htm
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Old Jan 4, 2007 | 08:09 PM
  #24  
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From: Laredo, Tx, 7 hours south of Dallas
Originally Posted by Captain
From what I understand it is. It can cause uncontrolled combustion and a "runaway" motor that just revs untill it goes.
Only if you keep spraying it. Why would you stand there and continue to spray ether into the motor as it kept revving higher and higher? As soon as you stop spraying ether the motor will slow back down.

I'll get a video of my truck starting with a .020"+ HG, and pistons shaved down .010"-, with a Smarty ECM, and Mach 4.8's. I do not have a block heater cord, or grid heaters. Sounds very unusual when it gets to 30*F or less.

Merrick
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 05:46 PM
  #25  
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4x4 dually sorry for the confusion I did mean the block heater and the 4 ga. wire is for charging the batterys only which is the same size as the stock wire from the stock battery so I figured that would be ok.

infidel I am running 3 aux.batterys total 2 of wich are mounted on the trailor for running equiptment one mounted under the bed of my truck the one mounted on the truck will be used for the block heater only unless I go some were with out the trarilor and need power hope this clears things up

as for every one else that thought the cost of this mod was to high I agree if you were doing this for the sole purpos of pluging in your block heater but in my case I all ready have the inverter so all i need to do is plug in to it. and I will no longer need to buy fuel for my generator and will not need to load and un load the generator on days that it is not needed.

ps thanks for taking the time to read my post..
Rick
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 11:39 PM
  #26  
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I like it- there is nothing worse than starting one of these beasts stone cold. Sure they start, but how much life are you using up with mollases(sp) for oil powering thru the oil passages?

How long do you need to be plugged in to raise the temp on these huge blocks of iron, anyways? I would use an inverter/extra battery alot if I had one.
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Old Jan 7, 2007 | 08:45 AM
  #27  
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From: street,Maryland
not sure how long you have to have it plugged in to get it warm i would guess 1-2 hrs would do it.
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Old Jan 9, 2007 | 06:57 AM
  #28  
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From: Walden, NY
Originally Posted by catnfool
I like it- there is nothing worse than starting one of these beasts stone cold. Sure they start, but how much life are you using up with mollases(sp) for oil powering thru the oil passages?

How long do you need to be plugged in to raise the temp on these huge blocks of iron, anyways? I would use an inverter/extra battery alot if I had one.
There are a lot of high quality ,readily available 5w40 synthetics out now for very reasonable prices.There is no reason to run 15w40 if you live in the cold climates,and cant plug in ,the Shell Rotella T 5w40 full synthetic is 15.88 a gallon here,7 dollars more than the 15w40 conventional oil,the savings in fuel alone ,and on the starter motor make it worth changing to synthetic.For 21 dollars an oil change(for winter months),I run the synthetic exclusively.The5 w40 syn diesel oil flows like convetional 5w30 oil when cold,and the engines start easier,and run a lot better for those first few minutes when the oil is usually very thick.
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