I ended up gettin creative and used a torch and just heated the spot that needed clearancing. I let her heat up until it started to deform, then I lightly pushed down on it. This worked pretty good, but 2 of them have a slight seep that needs to be taken care of.

 

Your experience may be different, since the holes in the block can be threaded to different depths, but on 5 of the 6 long studs, just removing the full depth of the allen head recess was enough for me. I think it was cylinder #3 that I had to remove just a little more........I did that while it was in the truck though. Do more reading and make sure you clean out each of the holes. The way I did it was by taking the first long bolt out, grinding the threads flat on each side (made a thread chaser tap). I then ran that bolt in and out a few times until it lightly seated, sprayed some carb cleaner in the hole, and suctioned the hole clean. Then the studs thread easily down by hand if you don't have the allen head. It is recommended though that you clean the threads and suction them on all holes. Fluid can be at the bottom of the hole and prevent the stud from going all the way down.

Waylan

 

Did you get those pics goin' there Radcam??

Joe

 

Wait so you guys are grinding on your head studs? now i mean seems like alot off ppl did that but isnt that metal tempered and when u take a grinder to it wouldnt you be worried that you heat it up enought and it weakens the studds? and what are you guys exactly torqing them down to? like whats the companys max torq? and what you guys are acctually torqing cause from what i understand the company gives you a 25% margin on what you can acctually torq to. thanks for the info guys

 

I torqued mine to 120 or so, can't remember exactly what it was. DonM is the one who has done several tests and gave us the 120+ number. If you grind slowly enough that the metal doesn't turn blue then the temper is not hurt. Keep a bowl of water there and grind a little, cool a little.

 

Couldn't have said it any better.

Anyone got any pics yet??

Joe

 

So if 120 seems to be the numer to torq to whats stock? and at 120 what psi should i be able to be somewhat safe around? i was considdering doing the studds, and new gskt and o-ringing just the head. I figure that sound be good for anything I throw at it. My boost gauge only goes to 60 and im not planning on going past that in this truck, but i'd sure like to be able to peg the gauge tho right at 60.

 

Stock is basically the same as the extra 90* turn at the end of torqueing to 90ft.lbs is taking the bolts up to around 120ft.lbs.

Just to let you guys know, I got my head ad studs installed this past weekend and I DID NOT have to grind on my studs to get them to clear. I did mill the valve covers down some in that area I saw in the pics RadCam showed me and I think that gave way much clearance for the nut and washer. Not sure why everyone else had to grind their's but I ran a bottom tap down into every hole in the block and cleaned them out real good and the studs ended up being flush with the top of the nuts on the pedistals. I did not make any new threads during the bottom tapping as all the material that came out was just rusty dirt and a little bit of oil and water, no metal shavings at all. Valve covers sat nice and flush on the head with no clearance or sealing problems.

Joe

 

So let me get this strait, Stock head bolds are 90lbs, and ARP head studs torq to 120lbs, right? and what about the other name brands out there? Is there one any better from the next? and again what boost can i look to be holding?

 

No, the torque is as follows, 66ft.lbs on all bolts/studs, then step it up to 89ft.lbs on all the long bolts/studs on the pedistals and then finally either an extra turn of 90* on all bolts or torque them to 120-125ft.lbs on studs. The extra 90* of tightening supposedly takes the bolts up to around 120-125.

Joe

 

so if this is done what boost should be safe to go up to?

 

Not sure but I have heard at least 60 and no more than 80. 80+ would require the block to be fire ringed. But who knows for sure, I plan to take this set-up to at least 60 and maybe even 70 when I can afford twins.

Joe

 

I just uploaded some pics of my valve covers I had to grind in my gallery, pending approval. I used Haisley's 12mm head studs. I even had the cylinder head off and cleaned the holes out with a bottom tap and still had to grind . I probly just didn't clean far enough down. I'd rather grind some on the valve covers than break a tap in the block . Also could be the differences in 1st gen block vs 2nd gen etc. As you can see, not only did I have to grind the ribs out, I had to take out some of the wall of the valve cover. I would dab some grease on top the stud and nut then place the cover on the head withOUT a gasket as per instructions. Supposed to sit flat with no gasket. Kept removing material until no grease would appear.

 

What years do you have to do the grinding? Can you just gring the bottom of the stud and rethread the studs so you can maintain the allen head?

 

That sucks, I got every hole to bottom tap very well with little force turning the tap until it stopped. I highly doubt you'll break a tap off in the block, you'll know when it stops. All my studs on the pedistals sit flush with the top of the nuts and I stuck my valve covers on a Bridgeport and milled the ribbs down and a bit past that for asurance.

Joe