It has been a number of years since I installed the new turbo, fuel plate, injectors. I guess its time to actually tune the pump to it instead of what I have it set to as an idiot with a stock fuel system So from what I gather I need to put a flat washer in front of the diaphram and file down a little of the afc arm to get full rack travel. The front plug just leave alone on the 215 pump. Also I think I need to change AFC springs. Would the stock or medium spring from the kit be better and does anyone know how you tell them apart? Or is there a third option for a spring that would be best? It also sounds like the screw on the back ill just start over again with it just touching the diaphram and go from there. As for the fender washer has there been any issues without the cup on it and the spring sliding down? If I recall with my sps62/14 the max boost its suposed to run is like 43pounds? Given that or whatever it should be where do you suggest I set my star wheel to for min boost pressure for max travel? 30? 40pounds? I have my 100 plate somewhere just a hair foreword of stock. Should that be moved all the way up front? Thats enough of that.

I have head studs and I machined new rocker pedistals down a number of years ago. Is there anyone around any more on the eastern side of PA who installs this stuff and does good work? I dont know that I want to do it. I have a fear of breaking off a stud in my block.

Lastly for future referance. At some point before I die I'd still like to put in a cam and get a ported head. This is my daily driver. Is F1 still the place for cams? Who does good head porting now? And if I put a pair of valve cover's with breathers on do I really need to plug up my blow by tube?

Sorry that was long. I'm catching up for years of neglect
Thanks

 

On the afc:
yes, swap the washers that sandwich the diaphragm for 5/16" fender washers
yes, take about .100" off the long end of the foot
light springs should have thinner wire as a place to start

On the tuning, I've been playing with the setup on mine quite a bit in the last few weeks.
I work on a few deserted roads by my house to tune. For the fuel plate position, I have been doing full throttle runs and watching smoke. If you have full boost and no smoke at full RPM, the throttle plate can go forward. If it smokes a little and you like it, good. If you want no smoke, back it down.

Housing position and starwheel are more fun to tune. Search will give you some write-ups on how to adjust them and the effect each adjustment will have.

 

Thank you for the reply. So you think the light AFC spring is the way to go for starters? Right now I do not have my head studs in so I try to keep the boost down but even under 40psi I dont have smoke. I just have a ton when I start and it bogs real hard until the turbo spools up. In the winter its very bad and stumbles badly and wont rev past 1500. I have read a number of posts for tuneing the star wheel and pre boost screw. One of the methods that people seem to like and I would like to try is to use a compressor to put air to the housing and set the star wheel for full rack travel at X psi. I'm just not sure given my turbo what psi is a good place to start.
Thank you for the info. I will start with the rest of it and see how I do.

 

I put a fender washer in and cut the barrel down in the afc. I put the medium AFC spring in and tightened it to the point where one or 2 more clicks and the spring will bind and not allow full travel. I did not check how low a pressure it will reach full travel but at the least at 35psi it hits full travel. I put the housing all the way foreword, turned the preboost screw in till it touched the diaphragm then turned it about 3/4 a turn. I also moved my fuel plate from roughly center to all the way foreword. Right now smoke is almost all gone. before I could black out a 4 lane highway. however it is also much slower then it was before. The truck struggles to move until I hit 4-6psi and for the most part below 1800rpm when the turbo starts to spool the truck is useless. I have no doubt i have much greater top end though I have not tested it since I have not installed my head studs. so in order to get my low end back should I be loosening the star wheel or screwing in the pre boost screw?
Thanks

 

Also I had hoped that tuning my AFC (less fuel at low boost) would fix my problem with stumbling, missing, and white smoke when cold. "cold" being below 60 or 70 degrees until the engine heats up for a while. I have to shift at about 1300rpm. The engine wont rev above it until it heats up. I guess the injectors are just to big.