Hey guys (gals?)

anyways I got stuck putting in some new DDP 3k GSP, i got the old one out and couldn't find an exploded diagram or youtube vid on how it all goes back in.

the DDP directions really need an exploded diagram they are unclear as how to install the GSP

Are there old spring seats I need to pull from inside the afc? I got all the old springs out then was messing with the new DDP spring seat and how it fits in the old clicker cap (it dont) so anyways wondering if I didn't get everything out that needs to be out? I can see a small thin washer in there too, is the spring seat behind that? Is the DDP spring seat the same thing only thicker??


I had to leave it all and rush off to work, so if someone can point me to a better diagram how it all fits back in I'd be much obliged, I'll take another stab at in the morning.



also, is there is a better way to do this than thru that small plug opening? I'm also installing a #10 plate, and have it all open. I put the new plate in already but it'd be easy to unbutton and go from the top? pros - cons?

thanks again

hey while I'm at it should I just go ahead and install the small spring DDP says not too (4K spring) unless I have stiffer lifter springs? Or just reuse the small stock spring??

I'd be happy with 3200rpm, this is an automatic.

#10 plate
DDP stage 1 injectors +50 hp
3 or 4 k GSP?

stock turbo, upgraded tranny and TC

 

First, its a GSK (Governor Spring Kit).

Second, get a small pencil magnet and go fishing in each flyweight. The stock spring seats are a two piece design, with some small shims. They slide over the stud, so fish the magnet down that, and make sure its all out. If you decided to pull everything out, the only stock components that go back in is the idle spring (the big one), the idle spring shims (between .020 and .040"), and the .020" wear washer (same OD, much smaller ID as the idle spring shims). Put the wear washer back in, followed by the idle spring shims, and then the spring.

Take the new spring seat, slide that in (flat side down, steps up), then install the new springs. Its easy if you put the smallest ones in first, then the next springs rests on that, instead of them kind of laying over. Then put the uper spring seat in, followed by the retaining nut. Turn it till you get 4 hard clicks out if it. Normally you get about 2 soft clicks first, then 4 hard. Use your thumb nail, and you can feel the initial engagement and the soft clicks.

Its up to you if you want to put the little springs in to make it a 4k. It makes quite a difference, and you're fine with stock springs if you don't over rev it. Once you've done this the first time, its not too bad afterwards.

As for going from the top, its possible, but not nearly as easy, even though you'd think access would be better. Much easier to drop something in there, and you're lifting parts out, as opposed to pulling them from the side. I did mine from the top the first time, every time since has been through the side.

 

Hey thanks

I dunno why I wrote GSP, other than I've been on some hunting dog forums a lot lately (GSP = german shorthair pointer) duh lol stupid dog

anyways, I didn't have a pencil magnet so I'll pick one of those up 1st thing tomorrow. I was using small needle nose pliers to pluck out the springs while holding a small screwdriver in the divit on the end of the stud so I could slide the springs out on the shaft of the screwdriver and not loose anything.

I had suspected that I didn't get everything out that needed to come out so thanks for clarifying that.

stock I only had 2 clicks, my idle was low too. you say to reinstall at 4 clicks huh, will the springs just make it click harder than stock or you talking about screwing it deeper down on the stud than stock?
Wouldn't that idle high?

 

pacbrake has better instructions

http://www.pacbrake.com/PDF/L5658.PDF

they say to remove the shims

 

Personally, I used the instructions from PEAK and measured the stud depth on the original springs with Vernier calipers. That way I know how many "clicks" to put it back to. I tried the counting thing, but the 3K springs started clicking later and I overtightened them. Never would have known if I didn't measure them with the verniers.

 

Thats for the shims under the inner spring seats. Most instructions tell you to leave the idle spring in, so you should never get the opportunity to actually remove the idle spring shims and wear washer.

Don't forget you have different springs going in, so the clicks will be different. I've set up a couple trucks at 4-5 clicks and its been just fine. Mine is at 5 now, and I need to take them off a a click. But its easy to adjust through the top afterwards with a long flat screwdriver.

 

oh man I lucked out or something because it is perfect

idle is awesome, was always low before now its spot on. She revs up smooth all the way to about 3500

best I could tell it was at 4 clicks


stoked its running so nice the first time