I have a 10 right now...

How much of a difference would I feel by going to a 100? 0?

 

My sig, same setup, just went to different plates, dynoed each time. Everything was full forward.

dynojet #6 395hp
dynojet #10 389hp
dynojet #0 411

load type dyno (floor it diesel) #0 430hp

Did the mods in this order.

Only thing your gonna notice is higher egts up top end, more hp up top rpms also. If you tow alot, just keep the 10.

 

I have a 0 and am looking for a 10 for when I am towing. I would also like to know this, but the othe way.
From what I understand, a 10 will defuel on bottom end and the topend to keep egts down. 0 is all out. And a 100 defuels on the lowend and then goes wide open.

 

What would a 6, 5, 4 do in my truck?

 

Oh, 100 is just a clutch/drivetrain/trans saver.

0, you drive with some sense, its fine. I tell everyone, just get the 0. And no you don't have to watch the egt like a hawk. Most daily hwy temps are 600-800 empty.

I just towed 9k the other day, temps never get over 1100, because that was stopping on a hill for traffic and rowing thru all the gears to get back to 60mph, lol and that only took about 1/2 mile, no smoke either. The guy behind me stopped at the next fuel stopped and couldn't believe I could keep 60mph on every hill (thats 7 of them). He was floored. He said his chevy 6.0 would never be able to do that.

And I barely broke 17psi, kept it in 4th cause of traffic, most temps on this wonderful 90deg day were 700-900 level.

I said, its all about torque.

 

I see you have the stock injectors and turbo?

6 will be hotter, but not that hot. Its deeper cut that the 10. But the 10 forward is about the same cut. The 6 you will gain on the upper rpm, because it doesn't defuel like the 10.

5 is hotter than the 6, most stock clutches and autos will eventually go, ease into the torque.

4 is the deepest cut, close to a 0, but it defuels some,

don't expect big differences in each plate, maybe 20-30hp in each, its all about driver habits and setup. with a stock setup, the egts stay in check, once you add big sticks, the egt problems amplify and then get the turbo to match.

what I'm trying to say, is most everyone has played around with plates, I for one has spent to much time and money swapping to find the best combo, when I should have just got the zero to begin with.

overall, the general consensus ie stock sticks, go with what TST recommends, stock clutch/auto, same go with TST recommends on there chart.

any mods, sticks/turbo, new clutch, get the 0 or 100. ie. 0 is a smoker no doubt

if you tow, get the 10, adjust the plate foward or backward to adjust temps if you have a small turbo.

Hope this helps.

 

Yes, you said it all right.

100 slow to fuel low, open full fuel up top rpm, ie clutch saver.

0 its all out, most power, full fuel at the touch of the pedal at all rpm, great for tailgators.

10, slow to fuel, then full fuel at peak torque, then slows to defuel around 2800rpm., its a V shape. Great for towing.



Make sure to adjust the governor arm, and add the 3k spring kit, these plates don't work well, unless these two items are done right.