Hi Guys,<br><br>I'm an FNG on this site and have been lurking here for a few weeks as part of my research on &quot;what to buy&quot;. I've narrowed it down and am ready to start negotiating a price soon. The question is, &quot;What to pay&quot;?<br><br>What constitutes a good deal?<br>What constitutes a scream'in good deal?<br>How can I find out if there are any factory to dealer incentives now?<br><br>I'm looking for a SRW 3500 Laramie, HO, 6 spd, with all the goodies. The MSRP is $42,650.<br><br>As usual, all help is appreciated. Your thoughts??

 

The dealer will know the incentives or you can visit the Dodge website, they list them there.<br><br>In buying a new vehicle in the past I would always offer less then what the sticker lists. If you are not trading anything in, you have more room to play with. Start somewhere reasonably lower than the sticker price and work from there. You should be able to knock at least something of the sticker.<br><br>Good Luck!

 

Like I said in your other post about this....Edmund's is a good place to start. It will give you a rough idea of what the actual invoice price is and what a good price for the truck is. Just click on &quot;Price with Options&quot; and build the one of your choice. I believe it will also tell the current rebates and incentives once you've built your truck. You can also go here and figure out roughly what you current trade in is worth...assuming you are trading in.

Based on Edmund's, in my area, that truck with pretty much everything has a sticker of about $44,500 and you could probably get it for about $39,000 or a little more if you knew how to bargain....plus the rebates.

 

The best offer I've got so far is from $42,650 to $35,524 which is $7,126 off of MSRP. I don't want to be greedy, but I don't do this often enough to necessarily know a good deal when I see one with all the incentives flying around these days. BTW, that price does include the $2,500 consumer rebate that DC puts on the table.<br><br>Sounds like I might already be in a pretty good position here. <br><br>My trade is a '96 Exploder with a V6. I'll be severly happy to be rid of it.<br><br>Thanks for all the input!!<br><br>100 Proof

 

Hey 100 Proof,<br>I bought my truck in Boise (I noticed you're from Idaho) and I paid invoice for it. It took a lot of convincing, but if you can find the invoice price (try Kelly Blue Book) and see what the invoice is. Be aware that dealers don't generally pay invoice, because they have this thing called &quot;holdback.&quot; Therefore, if you pay much more than invoice, you're pretty much paying for all the orthodontic work on the dealer's 3 kids!<br><br>Just my $0.02<br><br>BTW, I am guessing from your &quot;FNG&quot; comment that you live in Mountain Home???

 

Hi WHIFF-<br><br>Actually I'm in Boise. FNG stands for F'ing New Guy. I think on this site, I'm officially refered to as a &quot;Noobie&quot;. Thanks for the advice. That's what I'll try to zero in on. I'll post back with what I end up with.<br><br>100 Proof

 

For the final price, pay no more than Invoice + $50.00, then subtract the Rebate. If they don't deal, tell them you are heading to Kellogg, ID to get the truck and do it if you have to. They still get their 3% of the MSRP, not invoice, and with the MSRP the way they are, the dealership is making plenty!

Worked for me!

 

Yikes those trucks are expensive down there now.<br>Same truck up here would convert to about 34K retail to retail.<br>Now that DC has canned warranty on Canadian trucks going south if they have not been registered up here for at least six months, I guess this is a mute point now but it wasn't last year. ;D<br><br>Good ole DC likes VOIDING VOIDING