Thanks TexasCTD,
We might be going to Blanco, not sure yet.

~Rob

 

Cool. You'll have to keep us updated on how you like it. Polaris is tough to beat. Have fun and be careful.

 

hotdram

You will like the EFI on that Polaris. A guy that rides with us has the 800 EFI and he really likes it. Very capabable machine. I have owned several atvs over the years. I have had two Polarises, one Honda, one Suzuki, and now have a Kawasaki. They all seem to have some issues, so buy what appeals to your riding and likes. I currently have a Kawasaki BF 750. While the power on the thing is incredible, it has its issues also. One of the biggest is the lean carb jetting. Takes forever to warm up and run right, which doesn't help much when you are using it to plow snow and ride out to the treestand at deer camp. My next quad with have EFI, no doubt.

One thing to note on the 800 EFI, they do not get very good fuel mileage. The guy riding it would be sucking fumes about 3 or 4 miles before the rest of the group. Most of use are riding big bore utes also. Not a big deal unless you are going on a long ride though. Get a fuel pack and not worry about it.

 

Magnum Fatboy,
I have a 750 BF also and there is a TSB that fixes the lean carb jetting. They replace the front jets and do some other stuff to the carbs. Now I have no problems with warm up at all. I start it and haull butt with no wait even on cold starts. There is also a recall on the tie rod ends for I think 2004.5 models and up. You really cannot beat the power in the 750 BF but man is it top heavy in turns.

 

JHeiser

I asked the service manager at the dealership to do that TSB for the lean carb jetting due to it backfiring all the time when I had it in for the recall on the tie rods. He said he ordered the parts and they did it, but it still backfires and when I looked at the front carb when I got it back, it didn't look like the screws on the top of the carb had been touched. I think that they either A) forgot to do it B) skipped it and billed Kawasaki anyway. Hard to tell which. Its probably going back to the dealer in the next few weeks after I get back from WV. The 4wd is not engaging properly now. Another in a long series of problems with this machine. I guess that is what I get for wanting the first one the dealership got.

Your right, there is nothing better than the power on this machine, just wish it was a bit smaller and lower to the ground.

 

At the very least, you can turn the screw out for more fuel. The farther you turn it counter clockwise the richer at idle/startup and the low end range it will be. It does not affect the choke circuit at all so don't worry about that. Just keep track of the turns so you can always put it back where it was if they pout about it.

BTW the screw on those carbs is usually on the underside of the carb right underneath of where the throttle plate is between there and the rubber boot on the intake manifold or between the float bowl cover and the rubber intake boot. It is a fuel screw is why it should be underneath instead of on top. The screws on top are usually air screws and they react the opposite but are only found on two stroke machines. You can't screw them up by adjusting them. Turn them all the way in by going clockwise and then turn them out counter clockwise to two full 360 degree turns. That is the general rule of thumb. Turn them in gently though. They have a spring under neath the screw in the body of the casting and the end of the screw has a point that goes into a hole in the ventury of the carb just under the throttle plate. If you turn it too hard you can damage it. Just turn it lightly until it seats. Factory is typically about 1/4-1/2 turn out which is why they are lean. When these have to meet emissions in order to be sold in the US they only check them at idle and small throttle openings so they make the idle really lean and then try to compensate by making the the main jet and needle starting dimension a little richer. By just turning the mixture screw out a little it will solve your cold blooded issues you are having. Good luck.

 

Took a trip to Shreveport LA today and picked it up:


Haven't ridden it yet (except up on the trailer). Tomorrow is another day.

~Rob

 

That's one nasty, mean looking mother.

 

Rob, sorry about your loss. She looks pretty comfey up there.

 

She sure does. I let her take it for a spin around the block (she has more time on it than me ) and she came back with a big goofy grin and said she went faster on it down the street than she does with her car. She likes it (and BigBlue, she is not all that nasty ).

Starting to look like a dealership at my place:


~Rob

 

I think I'm going to do the headlight mod that keeps all three on when the high beam is on. Let me know if you want to do yours and I'll pick up all the parts at one time.

http://forums.atvconnection.com/mess...=headlights%20

 

Thanks for the heads up Charlie, but I am going to leave things alone. On the 400, I really can't use the high beam (when hunting) because of where I mount my rifle. When the high beam hits the rifle case, the glare is blinding.
Will probably be the same with the 800. I need the ability to be able to use just the low beam.

~Rob

 

This allows the use of the low beams only, but keeps them on when the high is on.

For the 3-headlight mod:
(Normal low-beams and all three lights on for highbeam.)

You'll need a 4-pin 12v automotive-type relay. I used Radio Shack PN 275-226. The terminal lugs are pre-numbered 30, 85, 86, & 87.
4 pieces of 16 gauge wire about 8" long
6 female crimp on spade connectors (for connection of wires to relay & spade connectors on 12v and Ground lugs)
2 Scotch-Lock wire splice connectors (they are blue and you simply insert the wires and squeeze with pliers, then fold back the protective locking cover)

Open the headlight pod and locate the wiring listed below-

Relay terminal #30 connects to Polaris Green wire (low beams) with a Scotch Lock.
There is a Green wire running to the instrument cluster, but this wire did not work properly on my '04.5 500HO. I used the Green wire coming from the handlebar mounted light switch (located within the protective black sheath) where it enters the pod.

Relay terminal #87 connects to 10 amp protected circuit at the 12v accessory/lighter plug. (There is a stud on the end of the lighter plug with a nut on it- this is the 12v source.)

Relay terminal #86 connects to Polaris Yellow wire (high beam) with a Scotch Lock.
This wire runs directly into the highbeam light plug. (Disconnect plug from headlight to facilitate connection of new wire.)
DO NOT use the Yellow/Red wire running to the instrument cluster.

Relay terminal #85 connects to Ground spade lug on the side of the 12v accessory/lighter plug.

Recommend using dielectric grease or liquid tape at all electrical connections to prevent corrosion.
If it doesn't work, check the connections at the Scotch Locks. It's rare but they sometimes fail to make good contact.

They way this functions is that when you select high beam, you are powering up the relay to give 12v to the low beam circuit from Polaris's 10amp 12v protected circuit at the accessory/lighter plug. (No fuse needed.)

Full credit for this mod is given to Snowride over at ATV Frontier.

 

Yeee Hawww! What a sweet ATV! Im such a sucker for utility 4 wheelers.

Don~

 

Guys, I'm sorry in advance but I ride ute quads all the time and what I have to say about Polaris' isn't exactly flattering. My brother has several Polaris' (for his farm) and I ride with some folks that ride them. What I can tell you is that if you're going to ride with those that ride a Polaris, you better be able to work on a Polaris. They are by far the most unreliable atv out there. They do a nice marketing job but it never fails, every time I ride, and there is a Polaris in the mix, we are waiting or helping fix it so we can continue. If you mud ride the moving suspension parts wear out quickly.

The good: They are a comfortable ride, have an aggressive look, come with the best stock tires in the industry and have good power. We were drag racing just the other weekend and a guy had a pretty new 800 EFI (05 I believe) vs me on my old 02 Yamaha 660 Grizzly. He had a tuner and stock tires. I have no perf mods on the Grizz, 2 hard cases full of gear front and back, and heavy 27-1/2" mud tires. I would jump him off the line every time stay side by side the first 30 yard or so then he would pull me a little the last 3/4 of the track but I would still finish on his back rack. I was surprised honestly, I though he would spank me. He did win every race though. A Suzuki King Quad 700 and I were back and forth, he'd win one and I'd win one (he had 26" mud lites). So the Polaris beat both of us similarly. We all wore out the 650 Artic Cat twin.....bad. Drag length was probably 125-150 yards or so, it was set up a local riding place. Word on the street and not the infomercial is that no one can touch the new 800 Bombardier not even big bore sport quads.....dunno for sure, didn't see it. There wasn't one running while we were out there.

Good/Bad - The Polaris' are heavy so they can find bottom on a mud hole and still get traction so they do pretty well in the mud. If they lose traction in that hole and can't get out then that weight becomes a liability. Many times we've had to put 2 quads to straps to get the Polaris' out.

Bottom line. If you don't ride hard, you'll like them ok for a while. If you do ride hard, you'll like them for a couple months until the parts start breaking. I'm not trying to offend anyone that owns them, just stating what I have seen and experienced first hand and trying to dissuade those on the fence from losing some cash in repairs. If reliability is your main concern go Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki or Kawasaki....in that order....my opinion. I've had a Honda 450 Foreman since 2000 and never done anything but change the oil and changed a battery. It needs front brakes now, but that is the first time. The Grizzly I have has only had oil changes, brakes, diff fluid changes and a broken axle. I pushed a buddy out of a mud hole and broke the axle. Both quads probably over 2500 hard miles on them. The guy on the 800 efi Polaris had taken his mud tires off because he said his ball joint or something were already worn out and he had to replace them first before he could put his mudders back on.

Again, sorry Polaris guys, no offence intended. Hell, I made an offer on one before I saw the light. Polaris' are a lot like Banks products.........over promise and underdeliver.