Ok, fellas. I have the Dead Pedal, the blue smoke, the P1693 and P2016 codes, and the dead pedal is getting progressively worse. First thing I did, I took my truck up to Antrim Diesel in Greencastle, PA. They went over my truck VERY VERY thoroughly. I dont have gauges yet, but they tested my fuel pressure and I was within specs, (8 psi at idle). I cant remember the WOT psi reading but I know it was within specs. They followed procedures checking everything and basically they determined my injection pump is crapped or on the crapping block. They told me my lift pump was fine.they cleared my codes out of my truck, (even verified that myself), nad they came back (2016/1693) not even two days later.

Not wanting to pay out of pocket for the outlandish price of a new IP, I contacted Daimler Chrysler and found out that my truck is still under warranty til October, 2006.

I took my truck to a local Dodge dealer. They told me "my lift pump needs to be replaced and they cant tell that I need an injection pump until my new intank lift pump is installed. The guy working the desk was telling me that soem sort of test they run and I needed 45 psi and I only was runnin 17 psi. I was quite skeptical at this due to the fact the only time I heard my truck running was when they pulled it in. I never heard them throttle it up or anything; I have a 5 inch straight pipe and its so obnoxiously loud even at idle so I find it very hard to believe they tested everything like they were supposed to.

I am very discouraged and I dont know what to do, Plus I gotta drive the gasser all the time

If anything I said sounds right or completely bogus, please let me know, I dont know thwe next logical step. Thanks for any hepl!!

 

When I got my new VP-44 the dealer told me that once they see the P0216 it's an automatic VP-44.
Not sure what your dealers issue is?? Whatever you do don't let it get down to the wire with your warranty.

 

my suggestion would to let them put the in tank pump in, and ask to keep your old pump and sending unit. Bring it back when your dead peddle shows up again and have them replace the vp44. GET A FP GAUGE!! Then decided what configuration you want your lift pump.

Just my .02

 

Oh, I forgot,............

GO TO ANOTHER DEALER, play dumb, you'll have a new Inj. Pump within a week or so.

 

ok. But now I feel obligated to this dealer. The guy at the desk told me he is gonna order me a new lift pump and then we will go from there. Great Im stuck now, aint I?

 

Just a note, most people on this forum think that 7 psi at WOT is the lowest it should be. If you are 8 psi at idle WOT is like 5 or 6. If it was my truck I would be replacing the LP.

 

If you like and trust the outfit just be upfront with them. Tell them that you want to do business with them and know that warranty work isn't thier favorite thing in the world. Let them know you have had a chance to talk to several people who are telling you from personal experience that the P0216 code isn't going to go away (ever) in fact it will get worse until one day you are stuck on the side of the raod in 105 degree heat waiting for a tow truck.

Okay, I made the last part up. I could be 25 degrees with freezing rain , or whatever. Point is, they NEED to get you a new VP-44 ordered.

 

Good advice, PJ. That is a very good angle to take. Im trying not to drive it. What happens if I keep driving it before I get the rpoblems fixed?

 

There is no further damage that can be done, it's not one of those kind of things. I would drive where you have to, just don't set out on a road trip or anything.

The thing to take from the whole experience is how very, very important fuel pressure is on your truck. You need to get one installed as soon as possible after the warranty work. It is imperative that you can see at a glance that you have decent pressure.

That will be a truly preventative measure, if in the future your FP gauge is showing less than 5 psi (or has been erratic) you will want to find a safe spot, pull over and plan on having your lift pump replaced.
That and keep your filters changed, most people like to freshen up a fuel filter at about 10K miles.
Good Luck.

 

PJ is coaching you right on.

If the service mgr. has ordered the lift pump I'd encourage you to be real direct with him when you go in for the install.

Tell him, "I searched a Dodge truck bulletin board and they indicated to me, invaribly the lift pump is replaced and shortly thereafter the codes return requiring the IP to be replaced. And this problem need to be solved before this truck is off of warranty. If we can't get this solved before then I need to go somewhere else!"

Let him know what you expect. Ask him what he expects from you. When he ask you to sign the work order write with ink and legibly what you both agreed upon, the date, THEN sign it and have him sign.

It's easier to get it all cleared up front and not have hassles latter. If he balks, go somewhere else!

Something that works good when you need a problem solved quickly..... When I come into the business, I begin with a compliment. (like, I see you're a 5 star service center, that puts you way above the rest! He'll say something..... Then ask, "Who is your toughest competition?"

Now, you go on with your problem and what you need done. When he doesn't serve your needs, you know exactly where to go. 'cause he just told you! Just tell him you're going over to XYZ co. to see how they handle the situation. Just make sure you can get it done there, 'cause you've just burned that bridge if the SM isn't needing you're business.

Stand up for yourself. You're the employeer, they're the employee! Hire someone who will get the work done, and done right!!

 

We have both in stock at work and you wouldn't even be posting this if you came in with that description of the problem. I also would go with a new lift pump, however I would have given you the choice of either going with the intank version (free) or have you provide a stock replacement one (your $$). I've tested the in tank pump and while it will easily pass DC's recommended fuel flow test, at wot the psi will drop to 1-2 psi. I'm not real comfortable with that on a truck that is modded. I have yet to see a prob with any of the stock trucks I've done the install on and I probably have at least 10 trucks that I see on a regular basis running them. Either way you would definately have gotten an injection pump. One thing that can bring the code back from what I've found is to run the engine at higher rpm's for a sustained period (2400 rpm works fine). I've often found that if the VP is close to calling it quits a 5-10 mile road test at the aforementioned rpm will sometimes cause the code to return. Good luck.

 

DJ : thanks man. I guess when it comes to them having to shell money out of their pocket, they just wanna play dumb. I asked several times if I could go back to the work area and talk to the mechanics but they wouldnt let me back there. Secondly, Like you said I just need to get in there and lay down the law. They know full well my IP is dead; they just dont want to admit it.

J Body : Wish i lived closer to Arizona, id come to your shop in a heartbeat! Also, this thing of the "intank lift pump," the dude was tellin me that they cant put another regular stock lift pump in there. It has to be a intank lift pump. THis doesn't make sense to me. I dont know the reasoning why they cant just put another stocker LP in there till I can upgrade to an aftermarket LP like FASS or Walboro.

 

The "stock type" lift pump was superceded by the intank pump. Stock style no longer available in the eyes of DC and basically can't be ordered. That is why I would give you the option of the "free" warranty in tank pump, or have you provide a new "stock/original" type pump. I really could care less what is getting fuel to the VP, just as long as it does in a manner that meets or beats the required amount.

 

As J Body said, the dealer no longer supplies the engine mount transfer pump. He did say I could go to Cummings to try to get the original but I opted for the intank. I got the retro kit from the dealer for the intank and did it myself. The kit comes with the adapter for up at the engine, a new harness, instructions and everything you need to do it yourself. The unit is a direct replacement for the fuel guage sender/float//lift pump assy that drops into the top of the tank which is held in with a big plastic lock nut. I'm presently getting 12 lbs at idle after the installation of the new pump. I would recommend the retro.