My truck stalled today about 30 seconds after startup. Now it cranks and nothing happens. I can hear something running after I stop cranking it. It sounds like the fuel pump. Then I looked under the hood and there is fuel dripping from the bottom of the filter. I can't see where it's coming from.

Does this mean my IP is dead? (Please say no, I just bought this truck)

Suggestions? What should I check? BTW there's no check engine light.

 

your fuel/water separator valve is open, you should see a lever on the front bottom side of the filter housing with a hose attached, move that lever to close it. Bump the starter, turn the key to run, barely engage the starter and release, you will hear the pump for about 25 seconds, if no fuel is coming out from the filter area now you should be good to go, try starting again. If no luck come back you might need to crack an injector line but that would be a last resort, try bumping the starter a few times and continue cranking until if fires up. no more than 20 bursts with the starter and then allow it to cool down.

What year is the truck if it's a 03 or newer do not crack an injector!!

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

You should go to the user control panel & fill in the info for truck , several different systems from yr to yr .
I would change the fuel filter , look close at the gaskets / O rings , new ones with filter .
When ever you go looking for problems , fix them as you find them [ leak at bottom of filter ] , not looking for more after finding one .
If need be , use a flashlite & mirror to see where the fuel is coming from .
If that does not fix , get codes , to help on this , but do not replace anything with out testing , to confirm you need whatever .
Has anything been done recently , that may have started this issue ?

 

Man I hope you are right about the valve. I'll check it tonight when I get home. I added the info as you requested John.

 

fill out your signature as well bud, since its a 99 you have essentially the same truck as i do, the drain on the fuel filter housing has a way of staying open and tearing seals so give that a good once over, do as these guys say and i would also get a 3/4 in wrench and crack an injector line to make sure your getting fuel to the injectors..

 

OK

The fuel seperator valve is shut. It looks like the lead is coming right out of the top where the red and black (fuel pump power?) wires go down in. It's leaking right around the wires. I assume that this is causing the system to come unprimed and thus not enough fuel is getting to the IP.

Hopefully the IP isn't cooked.

This is my first CTD so I haven't ever 'cracked' an injector you'll have to enlighten me.

Ideas? Do I need a new fuel pump or is this a common thing with an easy fix? (please!)

Thanks for all the responses.

 

Does this picture look like your FF? I know a 99 is different and has ports on top of the filter but the rest should be the same. Or is the leak on the lift pump right side of the picture?



My filter was leaking just a few days ago and a new filter and o ring fixed that. So your saying in the picture behind my finger is where your leaking?

 

Here's a pic of my fuel filter where the fuel is leaking. The pic is a bit off center but there's enough there to work with. It looks to me like the fuel is coming out where the wires go in the top of the FF. Not from in between the wires but from around the outside of the seal.



Anyone else experienced this? It's also possible that the leak is coming out from around where the filter threads in. I will look into that tonight.

After I take the filter off and reseat the o-ring how do I re-prime the system?

 

Changed the fuel filter - no dice. The leak is definately from around where the wires go in.

I assumed there was a pump in that mechanism but after taking off the bowl I see there's nothing there. From what I'm reading the wires going in the top power a fuel heater? Is that correct?

So my question is do I need to buy a whole new housing or can I just replace the wires and plug that go in the top?

Second question is could a leak in this plug that causes a slight drip (maybe 1 drip per second) cause a no start condition? Or should it run but not well. I'm trying to figure out how to determine if the IP is toasted.

I found this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=330164757573

I can't find that part anywhere else and I'm not sure how much to pay for it. Anyone know the Mopar part number for this?

Thanks again.

 

That's just what you need, i would try to win that auction if i were you. To buy one of those from the dealer would be very expensive.

 

Find a Cummins dealer , you should be able to get just the electrical & seal , much cheaper , my fuel system is set up a little different , but has a filter , heater ect. & I can get just the wiring to the heater by its self .

 

OK, so I was able to fix the leak in the plug at the heater coil wires.

Still no start. So I started cracking lines open along the system after I bumped the starter a few times and let the pump run. I can't find any air in the system.

I loosened the injector (I think) on the front cylinder. And I get no fuel there. This means injection pump problems correct?

Looking for confirmation of my diagnosis and any other things that I might try to revive this beast without spending the big bucks.

By the way, is changing out the IP something that could be done by the average joe with the average tools? Is there a step-by-step somewhere?

Thanks for all the help along the way.

 

Try to crack injector 1,3 &4, then crank the truck for no more than 30 seconds at a time. Have someone check to see if fuel is coming out of the cracked injectors.
Here is a how post from Diesel-Dan on the VP44
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=152404

 

Ok, first of all before you start chasing everything let's go back to what John said earlier. Easy things first. Go over to your auto parts store and get a fuel pressure gage ...15 psi. Get a fitting set that fits it into the front or fitting on the left of the filter housing you have in the picture. This will read fuel pressure after the filter. Good is about 13-14 psi with the stock lift pump. ..Bad is going to be below 4-5 psi.

After you get get this nice gage plugged in, set it up so you can see it from the driver seat. Just 'bump' the starter, don't turn the motor over. This will get you a 25 sec run of the lift pump. Read the gage. This will determine the condition of the lift pump. If bad go get a new one probably at NAPA or Cummins. Plan on 150-200 bucks. This little piece is down to the right in the picture and lower than the filter housing. Follow the fuel lines. Be careful of the seal washers on the pump and filter if you have to change the lift pump. Get 4 washers new when you get the pump. It will take 1/2 to 3/4 hour to do this the first time.

To fill the filter housing I take the gage out and stick the hose into a gallon jug. Bump the starter and it should pump some fuel into the jug. This will fill the filter housing and there will be only a minimum of trapped air.

It sounds like you already have air in the IP lines so do the 1,3, 4 as noted above. Fuel should come with some volume and pressure. But not always. Mine sometimes doesn't squirt much. Don't crank excessively or I will have to instruct you on how to replace a starter. haha

To answer your question on Injector Pump replacement. Yea you can do it if you can turn wrenches at all. Just watch Diesel Dan's movie. There is a list of required tools available. Just ask and you will receive here.

This is standard stuff for us 2nd gen 24 valve guys. Might as well get used to it.

BTW don't let my dry humor get you down...if I take all this stuff seriously I'd go crazy. haha

I had to come back and edit this a little. After you have good lift pump pressure, I'd get a scanner and read the codes. 0216 is 75% code of death for the IP, not always but very likely, 1688 1689 no communication......and you often will get 0233 crankshaft position sensor. These are the real bad ones. Might as well order a IP. The CPS is one I think is a result of the no communication rather than an additional problem. I still replace it if it shows up as it is not worth having to take the starter out again.

By the way you get a star for fixing the wire leak area. This is real nasty one and expensive. It's worth the time and effort to try to fix it.

 

Hey thanks for the response. I'll see if I can get a gauge to test the pressure.

By the way I still don't have a "Service Engine Soon" light on the dash which means (I think) that there aren't any codes set in the computer. Still seems like an airlock or electrical problem though since when I turn it over I get no smoke, no half start, no nothing. Does an IP just up and quit? Even when it's been running perfectly up till the day it dies?

I'll try cracking those 1,3,4 injectors tonight. I watched Diesel Dan's IP replacement vids. last night -- very enlightening even if I don't have to replace the pump.

I fixed the wire leak by taking out the heater coil where that plug goes up through the top of the filter housing. I took off the square o-ring and got a round o-ring from the auto parts store. I shaved it down a bit with a razor so that it was beveled from top down. Then I applied a bit of grease and pressed the thing (very carefully :-)) back in with a C-clamp. No more leaky! Don't know if I'll ever be able to get it out again, but that's a problem for another day!

I'll get back with what I find on the pressure and injectors.

Thanks.