Was getting a wobble in the front end when hitting the brakes . Pulled the fronts and they needed pads , also found a frozed caliper , new about 4 months ago . The rotors weren't perfect but I thought I'd try just the pads because it wasn't a problem in the past . Put on the new caliper , bled the fronts and put it back together . The rears I did about 4 months ago and put on the chevy cylinders . Then I adjusted the rears ( maybe 2 clicks ). Took it for a test drive , about 3 or 4 miles , when I got back the left rear was smoking . Get it in the shop , pull the wheels and the drum is stuck . Tried to back off the star wheel and can't get it to move , used a rod to push the lever off the wheel. Any tricks you guys know I'm all ears . Also , how do you know when the rears are adjusted properly , this is a duelly with posi . Thanks Bob

 

I'm confused about the timeline but that probably doesn't matter. I'm easily confused.

Is the emergency brake off? To get the drum off try turning that star wheel the other direction. If you are sure the star wheel is loose then try whacking the drum from side to side to move the pads back to center (maybe they stuck themselves to the drum from the excessive heat). Once they are clear of any ridge in the drum then pull the drum off. If that doesn't work you might have to pursuade it off with a hammer. Finally, drums will often rust to the axle and the easiest way to get them off is to add some heat to the center of the drum where it meets the axle. You can sometimes hear it pop when the rust seal breaks.

This is assuming the drums come off the axle on a 94 duelly. To be honest, I'm not sure how that rear brake is assembled so I'm not sure if the heat trick applies to you.

 

update
Finally got the star wheel loosened , had to take a screwdriver and tap it with a hammer , then I could use the brake spoon . Then the drum came right off . Everything looked good inside , no sign of any leaks . Still have no idea how it tightened that much. Test drove and no more smoke but it still has the wobble when braking . When I did the front pads I also replaced a tie rod that was bad , the rest of the front end seemed tight . Somewhere I read that a wheel bearing could cause this , though everything is dry. Could still be the rotors but it seemed to come on too fast , usually they start with a little thump thump and keeps getting worse.

 

Brake shimmy / vibration is ususally caused by warped brake rotors and/or drums worn out of round. Friction surface contammination could also be a problem. Brake rotors will warp by excess heat and they are more likely to warp the thinner they are due to wear. The only permannent fix is to replace the rotor(s) rather than turning them. You can have the brake drums turned if there is enough material left. I would check the brake shoes for cracking after what happened, frequently the lining will have a bunch of cracks in it after it got too hot. When adjusting rear brakes manually, make sure the wheel will turn easily by hand through the full 360 deg. The drums are almost never perfectly round and will have high and low spots. You should be able to feel and hear the shoes drag inside the drum when turning it. You want the brake shoes just barely touch the drum inside. The rear brakes should self-adjust when functioning properly so unless you have long brake pedal stroke I would not even touch them.