Intersting thing happen this morning, my service engine light came on, I remember reading that you could get the code out by turning the key off and and back on then pressing the odometer reset button. However I get no code, matter of fact it is not going through the normal process off that dash traveling around the reading area, it just pings the gages, and stops. I will note that late last week I did notice that the vehicle had started taking more revolutions before actually starting up. I guess I need to check the fuel pressure to make sure I am getting atleast 10psi from the lift pump. Any other suggestions while I sit here in a ice storm hoping my power doesn't leave my home. Thanks just don't say that "V" word please Christmas was tuff on the ole wallet, and I left the best diesel mechanic back in High Ridge MO that charged a very fair price, for great work.

 

The Code reading trick is key on, key off 3 times.
Won't work with 98.5 and early 99 model year 24 valve trucks.
They still need to go to somewhere to 'pull' the codes.
I think most large chain auto parts stores will pull them for free.

 

I hear autozone will check codes for free shovels right early vp44 trucks don't reveal codes with the ol ignition cycle trick

 

How much ya wanna bet it might be the crankshaft position sensor? I replaced mine after having the codes pulled at the local AutoZone. The only indication I had was the Check Engine Light, however some folks report that the tach will be jumpy or not work at all. I changed mine out before I had any performance issues.

I could be wrong,,,,, I just wanted to take a guess,,,,,,,,
(Keeping my fingers crossed for ya Primetime,,,,,,,,)

I also had a buddy with a code reader check it with the same results. He used the same $99 scanner that he uses on the gassers he works on.

 

The odometer button test is for the instrument cluster self test which different from the key on/key off/key on/key off/key on test.

Since we're on the subject, the correct way to do the instrument cluster self test is:
1. Key off
2. Press and hold odometer reset button
3. Key on
4. Release odometer reset button

 

I'm not sure if this applies to your year but if the crankshaft position sensor fails I think the air conditioner stops working and the alternator stops working......something like that anyway.

 

I may have been doing the test improperly, I will check that as soon as I can get the 1 or more of ice off my truck to open the doors. Oddly enough just after I posted the power went out but is back up for now. Thanks and if I have power I will let you know how it all works out.

 

When my "Check Engine Light" came on,,,,, I had no other problems on my 99. Everything else on the truck worked fine. I drove it for almost three weeks before I changed out the crankshaft position sensor. But I have read that it can leave the truck "dead in the water" if it fails completely.

 

You can do it forever it won't work. As Shovelhead said, the feature isn't on '98.5-'99, you need a code reader on those two years only.

 

I finally made it to the local Auto Zone and they told me it was P0237 something to do with the Turbo. I called a friend he told me to check the small hose that operates a vaccume moduel that the waste gate door. He said if that line has cracks or holes replace it, also that that waste gate may become stuck and just try and free it up.

 

Well from waste gate code, I took it into my local Dodge dealer. Some what scared to do so after reading the post on the horror others had experienced. They were able to determine that I had a small leak in the lift pump, it was acutally a crack in one of the plastic peices where the plastic and metal come together. Though my PSI was at 14 at idle when reved up it would drop down to about 10 or so. They did some testing on the turbo, and took it off for inspection and was able to show me an oil leak. Makes sence I thought I had a oil leak some where on the motor but was never able to find it, due to the fact it was sucking it in through the turbo. The dealer sold me a remaned trubo and a new lift pump for 1850.00 with 3 years and 36,000 mile. Seems fair and felt good about the technician that worked on my vehicle, and felt though I was treated good.

Thanks for all the other inputs

I have decided that an investment of some guages would helped identify my lift problem, and probably be good for overall protection to my vehicle any recommendations?