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No Boost

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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 07:19 AM
  #1  
DW Poyer's Avatar
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From: Roseburg Oregon
Angry No Boost

I was coming back from the coast pulling my 9,000 lb. fifth wheel trailer, was
pulling a slight hill. Was still in overdrive, pyro was sitting at about 800, boost was near 20 when I heard a sound like a tire blew out. There was a lot of smoke in my rear view mirror. I pulled over and checked all 10 tires, and they were all fine. When I took off again I had no boost, no power.
I have checked the intercooler and the line coming to it and the line going to the engine. I have taken the turbo to a turbo shop and they tell me it looks real good. I have no boost and no power. When the truck starts to pull a little the pyrometer raises quickly.
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 07:28 AM
  #2  
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From: Mostly near Tampa Fl
Sounds like you popped a boost boot. Check all connections and/or look for a hole or split boost boot.
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 08:00 AM
  #3  
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From: North Carolina or Kentucky. Take your pick
Either a boot is blown, leaking at a clamp or the intercooler is split. Don't know what year. Some years had plastic cooler connections and are bad about splitting. Doubt 20 PSI would blow a metal cooler. JMHO
There are some reasonable priced aftermarket coolers to be had.
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 11:30 AM
  #4  
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From: Roseburg Oregon
No I have checked all of that by removing and carefully inspecting each part.
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 02:28 PM
  #5  
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From: lyman, utah
Originally Posted by DW Poyer
I was coming back from the coast pulling my 9,000 lb. fifth wheel trailer, was
pulling a slight hill. Was still in overdrive, pyro was sitting at about 800, boost was near 20 when I heard a sound like a tire blew out. There was a lot of smoke in my rear view mirror. I pulled over and checked all 10 tires, and they were all fine. When I took off again I had no boost, no power.
I have checked the intercooler and the line coming to it and the line going to the engine. I have taken the turbo to a turbo shop and they tell me it looks real good. I have no boost and no power. When the truck starts to pull a little the pyrometer raises quickly.
do you have any codes?
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 05:47 PM
  #6  
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From: Vermont
Pressure test it

Originally Posted by DW Poyer
No I have checked all of that by removing and carefully inspecting each part.
You will have to charge the system with air to find the leak. It can be a VERY small slit that expands once under pressure. I tested mine in the past using a Shop Vac . It is a pain as it MUST be very clean and you have to seal off the part that goes into the manifold, but it will tell you where the leak is. It is not the most scientific method, but it works. Just don't over pressurize it with the vac (if this is even possible). Looks like the shop ruled out the turbo. I would look very closly at where the intercooler bands clamp the hoses - that is a usual place for them to split.

Rob
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Old Sep 6, 2008 | 08:41 PM
  #7  
DW Poyer's Avatar
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From: Roseburg Oregon
No Boost

You responded pressure test it. And yes that is a very good responce. I have a leak in the intake under the toaster or pre heater or what ever the thing is that warms up the intake for a cold start. Cummins don't have glow plugs they have this heater, toaster, instead. Well any way after removing the turbo and having it checked out. And after checking the charge tubes and boots I finally pressurized on the inlet side of the intercooler and heard the sound of leaking air. Soapy water helped identify the area of leakage.
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Old Sep 7, 2008 | 12:14 AM
  #8  
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From: Kenai Alaska
Sounds like some of the previous posts helped and I am glad you are getting it figured out. If you get the time, could you explain how you pressurized it etc? Thanks much.
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 05:14 AM
  #9  
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From: Roseburg Oregon
No Boost

I went down to a local plumbing store and purchased two 3 inch plastic end caps that one would glue to 3 inch plastic pipe ends. I duct taped one of them after drilling a small hole in it to the inlet side of the intercooler. I then stuck my air hose nozzle into that little hole and shot air into it. I made sure I only had about 30 pounds of air in my tank. Of course the duct tape did leak a little but using soapy water from a spray bottle I found the leak. Under the manifold pre heater there is a long narrow plate. I ended up replacing the gasket for that plate and now I have boost again. I pulled my turbo and pulled the charge lines off and did a lot of extra work that was not needed. All I had to do was pressurise the system and check for leaks.
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 08:50 AM
  #10  
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From: South Arkansas
Do you have any pics of your pressure set up. I need to do this this weekend on my truck.
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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 10:23 AM
  #11  
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From: Montana
Originally Posted by AllPlay
Do you have any pics of your pressure set up. I need to do this this weekend on my truck.
I do! I do!
But mine is different. You need a short piece of 3" pipe, a 3" cap drilled and tapped with a 1/4" port for the air hose and 3" ID X 3" OD rubber hose clamp coupling ( $9 Home Depot)
I actually tapped two ports on my cap, one for a pressure gauge and on the other I used a tire valve for filling.


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Old Sep 12, 2008 | 11:29 AM
  #12  
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From: South Arkansas
Perfect. Thanks.
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Old Sep 14, 2008 | 08:30 AM
  #13  
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From: South Arkansas
After making my pressure system I to found the large intake gasket was split. A trip to the parts store and a few down pours from Ike all is well so far. Thanks for the info and tips.
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Old Sep 22, 2008 | 11:14 PM
  #14  
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From: Roseburg Oregon
Replacing my intake gasket sure helped out my 2000 24 valve. I have heard things like "better use lock tite on those cap screws or else they will eventually backout." I don't know but I seem to develope more boost now that I did before the bursting of that intake gasket. I am wondering if I didn't have a seeping leak for a while before the burst. Does any one know about using lock tite?
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Old Sep 29, 2008 | 03:13 PM
  #15  
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How does it pressurize? wouldn't all the exhaust valves need to be closed?

-Dan
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