I'm a bit lost ! ??? Pulled the trailer out of the snow the other day. Lots of snow, so I stuck her in 4WD and pulled it out with no problems. I went to put it back into 2WD, and it wouldn't at all. I'd just hear a serious grinding sound. I shut down the truck right away. Crawled under, and manually shoved in back into 2WD while the truck was turned off. The shifter was very stiff to shift. Brought it in to the dealer, since it's still under warranty(aftermarket), and they said : vacuum switch replacement, differential servo, and 4X4 gearshift all need to be changed, 900$ worth. Apparently, my warranty won't cover these things(figures) &gt;. <br><br>Can anybody tell me what these parts do exactly? Where are they located? They already changed the vacuum switch(20 $) but the other parts are about 400$ each. Will any of these parts actually help with the stiff gearshift/ 4X4 lockup problem? ???<br><br>Many Thanks guys<br><br><br>

 

i dont know if this helps or not
but when i put my truck in 4high or low
when im done in 4wheel i put the truck in neutral
then put it back into 2high
then backup a few yards
then drive away
hope it helps ???

 

I do the same.<br>Hard habit to break.<br><br>At least I don't get out, find out I don't have manual hubs, then track mud back into the truck.<br>(did that for a while with my 2nd Toyota, first automatic hub truck)<br><br>Sounds like your's is more than that though.<br><br>Good luck,<br><br>phox

 

I agree with Mudder. I installed on my 2000 and use it all the time. It is also a real help when turning in 4x4. Just pop into 2wd and back to 4wd. Setup will save you about $600.

 

As far as the vaccum switch, that's been replaced so you don't need that.<br>The servo could be hanging up a bit, so i'll agree you may need that.<br>The shifter, I would seriously doubt you need that, did you check to see that the shifter is not binding up on the pivot itself?<br>That sounds like the first thing I would look at.<br>Try hitting the pivot with some penetrating oil and then remove the vaccum switch to see that the shaft is not bent.<br>You can see how the switch gets acuated when you remove it. A shaft presses against the ball in the end of the switch, then actuating the servo on the front end to engage the axle. seems like a lot, but some checking into this could save you that 600 or so dollars you would have to shell out.<br>As for the Posi-Lock setup, it is a good setup,but all it does is eliminate the vaccum end of the engagement. this will not cure your problem of the stiff shifter. <br>hope this helps<br>Rich

 

I fixed my own **** problem ! Dealer was full of it, as far as I'm concerned.<br><br>As for the stiff shifter: took the shifter linkage apart, penetrating oil, and a good clean up of rusted dirty parts. Shifts like new. Reset and re-indexed the shifter: this solved the servo problem. Since it wouldn't get back into 2WD, the servo kept reading it was in 4WD, so the servo's reading fine now. As for the vacuum switch: changed it for 20$ not sure if the other one may have been defective, but what the hell, it's only 20$<br>I'm kinda surprised how close 2WD, 4H and 4LO are on the transfer case. <br><br>As for the dealers, I explained them the proper procedure for digging their head out of their a... and trying to ding me for 900$ <br><br>Still find that I have to shut the truck down, to shift from 4H to 4Lo and back. Is this a common occurence with the old mechanical shifters? Someone told me that the synchro may be worn in the transfer case. Just wondering.<br><br>Also, should I back the truck up when I shift it back into 2WD? <br><br>Thanks for the help guys.<br><br><br>