...and I just need a little advice. No instructions were included with LarryB's hoses. At the top end, should I push the hoses onto the existing plastic hose barbs? I wanted to eliminate the plastic fittings but the hoses are a bit loose on the steel tube and pull off even with the hose clamps tight. I could force the hose past the formed flange and the clamp would hold but that type of flange might cut the hose. The bottom end is no problem.

BTW, I am installing LarryB's starter contact kit at the same time. Also no instructions but the R&R is straightforward. Access to the hoses is easy with the starter removed.

 

Starter instructions are on Larry's website http://www.fostertruck.com/contacts_install.htm

In the picture below you can see the line where it passes under the water temp sensor (upper right) the end with the clamp is to the left of the fuel filter, which needs to be removed to gain access. If you have vacuum assisted brakes ('94-'96) you will also need to remove the two nuts that hold the master cylinder with fluid reservoir and move it towards the drivers side, pull the large vacuum hose off the brake booster, it moves easier than it looks no need to disconnect any brake lines.
To get to the other end of the hose you need to move the two relays on the firewall with their bracket out of the way, one 3/8'' screw under the hood seal does it. Remove the hose hold down clamps towards the rear of the filter. I also completely remove the engine lift hook. Now you can follow the hose down by feel and remove the clamp. The rest with the new hose is self evident.
The intake line is 3/8'' in the same area but a little easier to get at.
Sure wish it was as easy to see as this diagram, the only place you can really see the line is right past the hold down clamps a few inches forward of the temp sender, even then you can only see a couple inches of it. Most of the job has to be done by feel.

 

Thanks, Bill, but none of that applies because I have removed the starter and access is easy from the bottom. Getting back to my question, should I utilize the plastic hose barbs existing on the engine end of the fuel tubes, or remove them and clamp the new hose directly on to the steel tubes?

Also, after examining my old fuel hoses, which were heavy plastic with a rubber cover, they seemed to be in new condition and not likely to leak for many years.

 

Remove the plastic quick disconnect fitting from the metal tubing and attach hose directly to the metal. They can be a pain to remove. I had to get creative with a cut off wheel with mine.

What happens with the plastic hose is that it will become brittle over time and develop hairline cracks that may not leak fuel, but will suck in air. Rubber is more forgiving and will last longer.

That type of hose is terrible in most applications. I just helped a buddy today replace a 6" piece of plastic fuel hose inside of his intake manifold (4.3L vortec) that had cracked on the end and had filled his cyl.s up with fuel to the point of hydro lock.

Good luck -Jake

 

Thank you, DZLPWR. The plastic fitting removes easily by lifting the two clips. These clips engage a formed flange on the steel tube about 3/4" from the end. Should I slide the new rubber hose over this flange and locate the hose clamp past the flange? The flange is not the usual barb or bubble for hoses but is quite severe and could damage the hose.

 

I've sent LarryB an e-mail to ask what install configuration he intended for his hoses.

 

Is the metal line flanged itself? As in the flange is metal? Or is the flange plastic?

 

The flange is made of the tube deformed into a flange or ring around the tube, .517" diameter on the 3/8" tube and .440" diameter on the 5/16" tube. I have decided to reuse the plastic disconnect/hose barbs which are a tight fit in the new hoses.