Trying to turn engine to TDC to adjust valve lash and need to know how to use the barring tool. I assumed it fit into a hole in the crankshaft pulley to turn it with a 1/2 breaker bar, but it doesn't fit into the pulley.

The barring tool I have looks like a very large Torx bit (close to an inch in diameter I'm estimating) but the hole in the middle of the 4 bolt circle on the crankshaft pulley is quite small, maybe 1/4".

Please help!

 

The barring socket emmulates a starter gear. There is a plug in the flywheel housing on the passenger side of the engine about mid way up. You pull out the plug and the socket slides in to engage with the ring gear to bar it over.

You will need a long set of extensions to bar it without being under the truck..

 

Make sure that you don't leave the barring tool in place and try to start the engine. It has been done and produces some very expensive results!

 

Thanks alot!

I'm headed back out to the garage now!

 

Good point.. Man that would suck...

 

Another option is to use a 7/8 inch socket on the alternator pulley.

 

that works but usually only in engine reverse rotation, it slips the other way...which is no big deal as long as you keep it in mind while watching the valves.

 

Thanks again all!

I removed the tool after turning the engine to TDC the 2nd time and before checking/adjusting the "2nd set" of valve clearances to make sure it wasn't left in place.

All were within specs so I closed it up and will check again at 270K (schedule B for my truck says check at 135K).

I really appreciate the help. I had pulled the valve cover a week or so ago without the barring tool on hand and tried unsuccessfully to use the alternator pulley nut. After turning the crank maybe 90 degrees, the nut loosened. I couldn't tighten it enough to keep it from loosening at that particular point of the engine turning. I was scared of damaging the pulley as I gripped it with a pair of mega-sized pliers while tightening the pulley nut, so I probably never tightened it more than it was originally.

I'm somewhat embarassed to say my truck has 195K on it as I had missed the valve lash check at 135K. So, needless to say I was greatly relieved to have them all show to be in spec...

 

Don't feel bad, I ain't done it yet.

 

Don't feel bad, as there are some of us that do it at 40,000 miles, because they can't wait that long. . You can usually tell by sound of engine "clackiness", when they need adjusting. Engine barring tool is the best way to turn over engine, as there is a lot of stress from overcoming compression, placed on that pulley nut.

 

The alternator nut method spins the engine backwards? I had no idea. I thought it went normal rotation.

 

it'll spin it normal direction, but belt tension is less so it usually just slips the alternator pulley. In reverse direction, it holds most of the time.

 

I'm right in the middle of this..do I turn the barring tool to the right or to the left or does it make any difference as long as the flywheel goes all the way around 360degrees

 

I asked myself the same question when I first did it. I spun it and watched the fan blade start to turn. I wanted it to turn the way it would when the motor was running and drawing air in through the Radiator.

Of the top of my head I can remember which way that end up being, but it should get you an answer you can at least work with.

 

The barring tool goes into the front cover of the bell housing. There is if I remember correctly a rubber plug in the front of the bell housing