I have some seeping from the head gasket at #6 cylinder externally. Is this common and what was avg cost of repair? Should I have the head pressure tested while its off and what else should I look at having done at this time? Thanks

 

The OEM head gaskets simply wear out from the vibration of the combustion cycle on engines that are worked pretty hard or have major performance upgrades. Most often there is no problem with the head, but it is a good idea to check the exhaust valve seats for cracking if you have over 200,000 miles on the engine.

If the exhaust seats are cracked pick up a replacement head and a good head gasket from one of the advertisers, and I recommend a stud kit to replace the head bolts. Nine out of ten mechanics cannot properly set the breakover tension on the OEM head bolts, and they should be replaced when the head is removed anyway. The studs are miles ahead of bolts for both quality and useful life.

If you do the repair yourself it is inexpensive for the parts. Add at least a grand US $ to that for a shop's labor. They are easy to do if you have a place to work and an engine hoist to lift the head once it is off. You also need to remove the front cab mounts and jack the cab up about 4 inches or so to allow the head to be lifted free.

 

hey rcw, iam fixing to do a valve job on my 12v due to gasket corrosion. the head bolts are not torque to yield. since you work on them pretty often would you put new head bolts or studs if it is basically a stock engine. i have also been told to use a marine head gasket what would you do? any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

Yes, I was just going to recommend replacement with a marine gasket - they're slightly thicker for heavy-duty use.

 

I thought the marine grade was all that you could get now? At least that is what I got for my early 91, and here in southeast MO, if there is a cheaper option, it is what you get unless you ask for the better stuff.

DP