Good evening,

I was looking under my hood this evening to start planning an exhaust upgrade and what to my wondering eyes should appear but a damp spot on the block on the passenger side at the rear!

I have posted pictures, but they are pending approval because I am still a newby.

I understand that head gasket leaks are not too uncommon. Is this correct? Is this a gasket that a reasonably mechanically competent guy can do in his garage?

Truck has no mods, it's a 24v 1998 with 150,000 exactly. It has been hitting me in the wallet pretty steadily and I am getting weary...

 

It's not because you are a newby, all members need to have their pics approved before they show up.
It's a rules thing, and the usual lack of reading them.

As to your question, I'm not sure, so I'll let those with more knowledge address it.


phox

 

Man, if you are reasonably mechanically inclined, you shouldn't have too much trouble doing the job. There is some measuring involved on deck surfaces, but that is easy, and cleanup is very important as well. Otherwise, follow the instruction manual, and it will go together like two rabbits.

Good luck with it.

PM me if you have hassles

 

Get a factory service manual (FSM), too. The Haynes and Chilton books are really only good for the pictures only.

Bought mine from www.techauthority.com

 

Make sure its not the famous '53' cracked block .They leak in that area. Hope I am wrong.

 

that is not where the 53 leaks , rent a good cherry picker and replace the gasket, if your mechanically inclined..... have the head checked out at the machine shop for straightness and valve recess. most likely good to go for another long time. if your strong or have three strong buddies , you might forgo the cherry picker. I know if I try to lift the head by myself , I look like this

 

Yes, you will need at least two people to lift the head. It is large, ackward to handle, and is quite heavy. I believe it is in the neighbohood of 125-150 lbs. Could be more.

I also reccomend taking the head to a machine shop to check it for straightness and also that it isn't warped. If the head is significantly warped, then a new gasket will not help.

 

You should be able to replace that gasket by yourself and a hoist. I would definately have the head checked by a competent machine shop. IIRC, #6 tends to be the hottest cylinder and would have the most potential to warp. Also check the block to make sure it's perfectly square. If you put a straight head on a warped block, you're only asking for trouble. For comparison, me and 2 buddies can have a head off in about 90 minutes if we want to. One guy takes the exhaust & turbo off, one guy takes the intake & fuel off and one guy goes down the middle with the valve train & fasteners.

brandon.

 

Matt, do you have a 53 block ??? That is the area that they crack, been there done that. With 150K mi no mods I dout that its your HG. Thanks Steve B.

 

I just went through replacing the headgasket, it can be a one man job until you have to lift that heavy sucker out of there! I got a buddy to help lift, just DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE COOLANT TEMP SENSOR AT THE BACK if that's where it is on a 24V as well. It costs $95 from NAPA!

 

I looked at your pictures and the leak does look like your HG, as the others said go ahead and change it yourself but ensure it gets checked for true aswell as the block. HGs are reasonably common on trucks with healthy mods and no studs but for a un-BOMBed truck I think it should be looked at closely as to wy it failed. Good luck

 

I would also get new bolts,spacers and gaskets for the exhaust manifold and turbo gasket.

 

Okay gang,

I have driven it and watched it for several days. No coolant usage. The damp area in the picture is gone when the engine is warm. I looked tonight and there is no seepage like that picture...mystery...I hate mysteries where machinery is concerned.

Where do I look to find out if this a 53 block?

Matt

 

Click here , its all you ever want to know about 53 blocks.

 

You can purchase a coolant pressure test kit fairly cheap, and pressurize cooling system. You could still be loosing coolant, and not find any leaks, unless you use kit, it will pinpoint location of leak(s). .