I've got a problem. Truck ran fine. 2 weeks ago while getting ready to leave driveway I put it in reverse and the engine wanted to die out. Put it in park and she idled fine. Dropped in drive..she did te same thing. Shut off checked underneath, got back in started up...everything was fine. Run good for 2 weeks.
Driving on freeway started chugging..died on off ramp. Towed home. Messed around with it..doing actualy nothing and I got it to start. Would run good if I held the throttle at 2000 rpm, as I let out the throttle it would die out. Some reason it started and ran fine for couple of days. Now its doing the same thing. It will run but chuggs and keeps dying out.
$125 dollars later shop says I'm not getting a good ground from the right battery (the one that both computers are grounded too). Reason they said this is because terminal clamp is cracked..but it is getting good connection from battery.
Any ideas? Shop said TPS code (equivelent APPS I think?) was tripped. But not everytime he checked. Also said both computers were showing bad...but again not everytime. Any help is greatful.
jay

 

Welcome to DTR...

First thing you need to do is fill out your signature with what truck you have, this will make it easier to assist with the diagnosis (12V v. 24V v. 3rd Gen 24V);

Pls include if you have gauges, and what they're reading, CEL and / or codes that you have had read, mods, miles, recent maintenance (especially fuel system-wise), etc.


Rauschbo

 

im going to take a shot in the dark and say that you have a 24v and that your vp44 is going out. but it would be alot more helpful if we knew defiently what you had

 

2001 Dodge 2500, 24 valve, no gauges. Stock everything, just rebuilt tranny. Turning key trick says code 1693.

 

1693 is the companion code wait a little bit after that i know it says P done but it will kick a ECU code P.... thats the one needed the 1693 just says there another code

 

Waited for more codes, but nothing showed up on the odometer. Truck is running now, until you put it in gear and it dies out....throw it in neutral or park before it dies and it idles good. Driving me crazy.!!

 

mines doin the same thing...the pump is shot. im in denial too but...its 1500$

 

Dieselbeef

Why do you think it is the pump? You really don't put anymore load on it when you just put it in gear, sitting with your foot on the brake. If I rev the rpms to about 1500-2000 rpm she sounds and feels good.
Wouldn't the pump have to work harder at those rpms, therefore if pump is bad shouldn't she die out at high rpms?
No, I do not know much about cars before anyone asks.

I was kinda leaning toward a computer module maybe??

westy

 

You should get the codes read ASAP, Autozone usually does it for free (sometimes only if the CEL is on); You should start planning on getting the gauges in ASAP, especially the FP gauge, this can give you a heads-up that the FP is going, which invariably takes the IP out with it.....

How many miles are on the vehicle, and do you know if there has been any maintenance to the fuel system (new filter, new FP, etc)?

 

168K on it. No maintance except on tranny (rebuilt). I changed the filter on it last sat. old filter looked good. New tranfer pump 1 1/2 yrs ago.
Codes that were pulled...I can't remember #'s..I'll try and get them Monday. Autozone won't pull codes unless engine light is on...mine is not and has never came on since I bought it..2 years now.
Shop said something about replacing pass side battery negative cable because of end was broken. Causing a bad ground (maybe he said) wanted $400 to fix it. I checked it over and it is making a good connection. Going to replace it anyway.(me not him!) Going to do that now. That is the side that the computer and engine companion computer tie into...maybe a easy fix I'm hoping

I just feel like it is something electrical or some sensor.

 

Did the issues start with the filter replacement?

 

dying when putting trans into gear sounds like the torque convertor clutch is locking and killing the engine.

 

No. Issue did not start with filter replacement. I changed it thinking it might have something to do with it.
I got the check engine light to come on by accident...started it twice...died once and the other time it would idle nice and smooth. Only started to die when I put it in gear...drove it up and down the road and it would chugg and sputter...now when I start her she won't even idle without my foot into the gas...about 1600-1800 rpms.
Check engine light went off by itself.
Pulled all my negative battery cables..checked continuity of cables...checked and cleaned the grounding points..fixed terminal block on negative cable...still no luck. Thought maybe it might just be bad ground.

I'm still thinking electrical or sensor of some sort...if it were inj pump...wouldn't it do it all the time and not just intermmintly?

How much is a over the counter code puller cost? Is it dodge specific or can I use it on other cars/trucks?
westy

 

The codes that are most meaningful are only read by Dodge's code reader the little hand held units are good if you have lots of experience and are good at diagnosing trouble.

Generally speaking, when a 24 valve quits after a hot soak (being shut off after fully warm and then fails to restart and stay running) it is about a 97% certainty that the VP44 has failed. This would be especially true if when you tried the fuel filter bleed procedure the transfer pump really pumped out the fuel from the bleeder.

Sometimes the MAP sensor will develop dirty electrical contacts or get plugged on the intake manifold side, and that can give a really low power condition when warm starting. The other thing to check is the IAT sensor, next one back from the MAP, as it can do some similar symptoms when it is dirty or the terminals corroded.

 

Chug and sputter........I'm tending to believe RCW is right and you are going to need a VP.