Fuel Shut Down Solenoid
Fuel Shut Down Solenoid
NEED HELP HERE PEOPLE !
I OWN A 1996 3500 RAM DIESEL . MY MAJOR PROBLEM IS THE FUEL SHUT DOWN SOLENOLD .I REPLACED THE 1st ONE WITH A NEW BEEFY SOLENOID AND ALSO THE TWO FUSABLE LINKS (RED & BLUE) AT THE BATTERY. EVERYTHING WAS WORKING FINE UNTIL A MONTH AGO, THEN NOTHING!!! CRANKS OVER BUT NO START AGAIN!!! TOOK OUT MY TEST LIGHT AND FOUND THAT I GOT POWER TO THE RED/VIOLET (THE PULL CIRCUIT) WIRE ON THE FEMALE SIDE OF THE CONNECTOR TO THE SOLENOID WHEN NOT CONNECTED, BUT WHEN I CONNECT THE SOLENOID, NO POWER TO THE RED/VIOLET WIRE WHEN I TRY TO START THE TRUCK. PLEASE, CAN ANYONE HELP ME WITH THIS PROBLEM! THANKYOU, FROGGIE
I OWN A 1996 3500 RAM DIESEL . MY MAJOR PROBLEM IS THE FUEL SHUT DOWN SOLENOLD .I REPLACED THE 1st ONE WITH A NEW BEEFY SOLENOID AND ALSO THE TWO FUSABLE LINKS (RED & BLUE) AT THE BATTERY. EVERYTHING WAS WORKING FINE UNTIL A MONTH AGO, THEN NOTHING!!! CRANKS OVER BUT NO START AGAIN!!! TOOK OUT MY TEST LIGHT AND FOUND THAT I GOT POWER TO THE RED/VIOLET (THE PULL CIRCUIT) WIRE ON THE FEMALE SIDE OF THE CONNECTOR TO THE SOLENOID WHEN NOT CONNECTED, BUT WHEN I CONNECT THE SOLENOID, NO POWER TO THE RED/VIOLET WIRE WHEN I TRY TO START THE TRUCK. PLEASE, CAN ANYONE HELP ME WITH THIS PROBLEM! THANKYOU, FROGGIE
If I understand you correctly your getting power to the pull side at the quick connector located close to the soleniod while crankin. If that's the case - it means your fuse link & starter contacts are ok.
So it's got to be in the connection or the soleniod.
Assuming the 3 wire connector is making good contact then I would check that the plunger length is still adjusted properly. (about 1 5/8" if I remember right) I installed mine & it wouldn't pull up untill it was adjusted properly.
You can turn the key on and then manually pull the soleniod up and it will stay in the run position if you need to get it goin.
db
So it's got to be in the connection or the soleniod.
Assuming the 3 wire connector is making good contact then I would check that the plunger length is still adjusted properly. (about 1 5/8" if I remember right) I installed mine & it wouldn't pull up untill it was adjusted properly.
You can turn the key on and then manually pull the soleniod up and it will stay in the run position if you need to get it goin.
db
Fuel Shutdown Solenoid
HELLO db!
THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY. THE PROBLEM IS THIS, WITH THE TEST LIGHT, WITHOUT THE SOLENOLD CONNECTED,HAVE POWER AT THE CONNECTOR WHEN CRANKING OVER THE ENGINE. WHEN I CONNECT THE SOLENOLD TO THE HARNESS, I HAVE NO POWER AT THE CONNECTOR WHEN I CRANK HER OVER. EVERYTHING WAS WORKING GREAT FOR ABOUT 4 MONTHS AND THEN ONE DAY NOTHING. HOPES THIS HELPS !
THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY. THE PROBLEM IS THIS, WITH THE TEST LIGHT, WITHOUT THE SOLENOLD CONNECTED,HAVE POWER AT THE CONNECTOR WHEN CRANKING OVER THE ENGINE. WHEN I CONNECT THE SOLENOLD TO THE HARNESS, I HAVE NO POWER AT THE CONNECTOR WHEN I CRANK HER OVER. EVERYTHING WAS WORKING GREAT FOR ABOUT 4 MONTHS AND THEN ONE DAY NOTHING. HOPES THIS HELPS !
Just because you get voltage or can light up a light at the red/vt wire means absolutely nothing and has lead many people astray. You need amps too to pull up the solenoid, a lot of them. You have a bad relay or connection somewhere that isn't allowing enough current to pass.
You probably also have two good solenoids also.
You probably also have two good solenoids also.
I'd check your connection at the battery. I had some issues there. If it's becomming that much of an issue....Do what I did.....Buy a $15 choke cable kit, and remove the solonoid. Use the cable instead. Mine was to the point that it was not pulling the arm all the way up causing me to have a lower power issue!
Josh
Josh
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