HELP! If you have an EMERGENCY situation with your truck, or you need IMMEDIATE technical help, use this board.

Electrical Problem and Alternator shows NO output!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-16-2008, 12:32 AM
  #31  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Katmandu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Wetumpka, Alabama
Posts: 659
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Question

Originally Posted by sweeney186
the 98 should have 12v key on pin 12 gray conn-but the diag is the same for 12v & 24v-which is prob not true.there have been many mistakes in their diag's over the years.the 97 diag shows only 2 12v feeds pins 2,12 blk conn.

you do have 12v at the right places-one other thing can shutdown your pcm-a shorted crank sensor.
I should clarify that this truck is an EARLY 98 (Made 11/07) 12 valver. I'm sure the PCMs are different. Should "probably" be the same as a 97 then I assume.[/quote]

I have NO power on PIN #12 key-ON. Is this correct then ?

Originally Posted by sweeney186
one other thing can shutdown your pcm-a shorted crank sensor.
Is this the ESS (Engine Speed Sensor) near the damper ? Or the one located at the back of the engine ???
Old 01-16-2008, 09:46 AM
  #32  
Registered User
 
infidel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Montana
Posts: 14,672
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
Is this the ESS (Engine Speed Sensor) near the damper ? Or the one located at the back of the engine ???
There is no sensor (CPS) at the back on the engine, that's a 24 valve thing.

'94&'95 are the only years that have the same PCM, all the other 12 valve years are different.
Old 01-16-2008, 10:05 AM
  #33  
DTR's 'Go to Guy'
 
vzdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 3,811
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
97 or early 98 , either way, if it affecting all the guages, it's a pcm or ccd bus issue.
Old 01-16-2008, 10:25 AM
  #34  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Katmandu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Wetumpka, Alabama
Posts: 659
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Question

Originally Posted by vzdude
97 or early 98 , either way, if it affecting all the guages, it's a pcm or ccd bus issue.
Where's a good place to find a used PCM ?

Do I look for a 97 (since it's a 12 Valver and built 11/1997) or go with a 98 ?
Old 01-16-2008, 10:35 AM
  #35  
DTR's 'Go to Guy'
 
vzdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 3,811
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Best thing to do is to get the number off of your old one to match it up. MANY different options. Try car-part.com too. The website will automatically sort by closest parts.
Old 01-16-2008, 10:45 AM
  #36  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Katmandu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Wetumpka, Alabama
Posts: 659
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Arrow

Originally Posted by vzdude
Best thing to do is to get the number off of your old one to match it up. MANY different options. Try car-part.com too. The website will automatically sort by closest parts.
1998
05014155AA
56040139AA
56040139AB

From this website....

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2004/c...ailability.pdf

I still need to do the final check on that CPS. It's gonna have to wait a bit. I work 3rd Shift and have been up A LOOOONG time.





Old 01-16-2008, 10:55 AM
  #37  
DTR's 'Go to Guy'
 
vzdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 3,811
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
You need the number off of YOUR pcm. Should be a label. Even if the pcm has been flashed ( which changes the number ) ( look for a label either on the core support or the pcm itself), if you get me those numbers , I can give you a list of all pcms that will work. And a price on a new one too!
Old 01-16-2008, 11:08 AM
  #38  
Registered User
 
Need95-00CTD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 923
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
first things first, pull apart the plugs on your PCM, find the light green wire with a black stripe and check to make sure you have voltage, if you don't, either your fuse is blown, a wire is cut, or shorted out somewhere. Thats what happened with my problem, find the short, find your problem.

To test the PCM I just spliced into the green and black wire that runs into the PCM, cut it, and spliced it right to the cigarette lighter (only thing I knew had power with the ignition on). When I got back my gauges I knew the PCM wasn't dead.
Old 01-16-2008, 11:21 AM
  #39  
DTR's 'Go to Guy'
 
vzdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 3,811
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
I would agree.....that is still a possibility. Double check that first. There are NUMEROUS splices in that wire too! You did double check fuse 4 & 9 too right?
Old 01-17-2008, 12:37 PM
  #40  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Katmandu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Wetumpka, Alabama
Posts: 659
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Arrow

Originally Posted by vzdude
You did double check fuse 4 & 9 too right?
Yes. Both are GOOD.
Old 01-17-2008, 12:38 PM
  #41  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Katmandu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Wetumpka, Alabama
Posts: 659
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Question

Originally Posted by Need95-00CTD
first things first, pull apart the plugs on your PCM, find the light green wire with a black stripe and check to make sure you have voltage,
Which plug and position is it on ???
Old 01-17-2008, 02:52 PM
  #42  
Registered User
 
Need95-00CTD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 923
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I don't recall. IIRC its the plug closest to the drivers side, and the 5th from the left on the bottom, but it doesn't take long to pull the back cover off of it and trace the right wire to the right pin. Make sure you check the pin itself, not the wire running into it, as infidel often states the connectors in these things are prone to cracking pins or losing them all together.
Old 01-21-2008, 08:09 AM
  #43  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Katmandu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Wetumpka, Alabama
Posts: 659
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Question

Ok, I've got a PCM (used) coming in the mail.

A local mechanic here says I "may" need to have the Dealership REFLASH it to make it work.

It's my understanding that 12 Valvers don't need the PCM to run.

Do I really need to get the PCM reflashed from the Dealership or is this unnecessary ?????
Old 01-21-2008, 10:43 AM
  #44  
DTR's 'Go to Guy'
 
vzdude's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 3,811
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
As long as it is a used one, it may run with some lights and such ( check engine ect, ect,) . The dealer may have to reprogram the VIN for things like abs and such, but the basic functions should still work ( like charging and all!)
Old 01-22-2008, 07:23 AM
  #45  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Katmandu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Wetumpka, Alabama
Posts: 659
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Arrow

Originally Posted by vzdude
As long as it is a used one, it may run with some lights and such ( check engine ect, ect,) . The dealer may have to reprogram the VIN for things like abs and such, but the basic functions should still work ( like charging and all!)
It's the exact same # 56040139AC. I'm hoping it's plug and play.

It should be here tomorrow.


Quick Reply: Electrical Problem and Alternator shows NO output!



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:57 PM.